December and January are undeniably the months during which the greatest number of corks are popped – of sparkling wines, needless to say – to be poured in the glasses of pleasure-loving and festive guests at the countless banquets of these days. The joyful bangs of bottles of sparkling wine – which are exceptionally “tolerated” only during moments of celebration – is not only and exclusively about Italy but, evidently, the whole world. Specifically, the holidays that have just passed, and are still being celebrated for a few more days, mark a significant achievement for Italian sparkling wine. It's good news, of course, happy to know that wine lovers around the world, when celebrating their special moments, do so by uncorking a bottle of Italian sparkling wine. It is obviously not the only wine with bubbles that sees the way to the joyful glass these days, since – as is well known – in the world there are other important countries producing sparkling wines and which equally enjoy the favors of enthusiasts.

 According to what is reported in research carried out by Uiv-Ismea (Italian Wine Union - Institute of Services for the Agricultural and Food Market), at the end of the 2023-2024 holidays, 333 million bottles of Italian sparkling wine will have been uncorked worldwide. Of these, it is expected that more than 95 million bottles will be consumed in Italy. A decidedly important number and, in the specific case of Italy, considering our country's population of around 60 million inhabitants, it means that every Italian has uncorked at least one bottle of sparkling wine produced in our country. Regarding the volume of purchases, these are in line with those of the last year, still marking an increase of +24% compared to 2019. The bubble holidays in Italy do not end here. The Uiv-Ismea research estimates that, in the days of Christmas and New Year alone, as many as 6 million bottles of foreign sparkling wines will be uncorked as well.

 The good news for Italian sparkling wine does not end here. In fact, the research states that, according to estimates for the year 2023, the consumption of Italian sparkling wine stands at 936 million bottles, a figure that substantially confirms the trend of recent years. Furthermore, it is estimated that at the end of next year, the overall consumption of Italian sparkling wine should exceed one billion bottles, thus predicting a substantial increase in the diffusion of our country's bubbles. Moreover, this data highlights how the consumption of sparkling wines is mainly concentrated in the holiday period at the end and beginning of the year, a widely known and always predictable condition. By evaluating the figures from the Uiv-Ismea study, it is highlighted that approximately one third of the total bottles of sparkling wine were uncorked in this specific period, with the remaining two thirds evidently consumed over eleven months.

 Although these are decidedly positive numbers, one cannot help but notice that, from a social and cultural point of view, sparkling wines still remain firmly associated with holidays and the celebration of particular occasions. The habit, or rather, the thought, of associating a sparkling wine with a meal still remains a pleasure that wine enthusiasts, in general terms, tend not to consider. Yet, as far as I'm concerned, pairing a sparkling wine with a meal has been both a thirty-year old habit for me and – not least – a real pleasure. Not to mention, moreover, my habit of pairing bubbles with pizza: also in this case a habit of at least thirty years, to the amazement of my guests, who were and are, much more naturally oriented towards other drinks, including beer and sweet and soda pops. After all, it is enough to look at the wine lists of the majority of restaurants to understand how the habit of pairing sparkling wine with a meal is almost ignored: the presence of bubbles is always decidedly modest, often completely absent.

 As regards preferences relating to the type and specific value of sparkling wines, the category recording the greatest increase is that of sparkling wines produced with the Charmat method, particularly those sold at lower prices. This category, in fact, saw its sales increase by 7.5% compared to the rest of sparkling wines, corresponding, for the year 2023, to 206 million bottles. The main Italian denomination sparkling wines – such as Prosecco and Asti, in addition to the main classic methods – for the year 2023 recorded a decrease of 3%, equal to 727 million bottles. Inflation and consumers' lower willingness to spend are evidently among the factors responsible for these results. For the holidays of the end and beginning of the year, therefore, consumers do not give up the joyful bang of a bottle of sparkling wine, even in the forced need to spend less as long as they celebrate.

 However, these results do not compromise the extraordinary sales success achieved by Italian sparkling wines over the last ten years. Italian bubbles have in fact increased their sales value by 416% in France, 351% in the United States of America, 350% in the United Kingdom, 42% in Germany, up to 983% in Poland. Moreover, the Uiv-Ismea study highlights – based on Istat data (the National Institute of Statistics) – that exports in the first nine months of 2023 recorded a decline of 3.1% for sparkling wines, however, due to the effect of inflation, the corresponding value increased by 2.5%. By considering the entire Italian wine sector, in the third quarter, exports recorded a -0.2% in volume, while in terms of value, the drop was equivalent to -1.9% corresponding to 5.65 billion euros. Denomination wines have dropped by 3.8% in terms of volume, while bulk wines increased by 18.9% and, due to the drop in production prices, the average value consequently fell by 14%.

 As regards the markets, in the United States of America the volume decreased by -12.8%, corresponding to -9.5% in terms of value. The trend is decidedly opposite in Germany, which records an increase in volumes of 12.4%, a result which is however largely determined by the volume of sales of bulk wines. The United Kingdom market, however, remained unchanged, while that of Switzerland recorded a slight decline. Finally, the study highlights the demand from European Union countries increased by 9.3%, while those outside the Union recorded a decline of 9.2%. In general terms, by considering the particular economic conditions of this period, these are overall positive results. The effect of inflation and the increase in production costs have in fact seen the average price of sparkling wines grow by 5%, a reason that has certainly pushed consumers to choose the cheapest bottles, just not to give up the “moment of celebration”. In this regard, it should however be noted that, precisely on the occasion of the holidays at the end and beginning of the year, even “high-end” sparkling wines, including foreign ones, recorded a significant increase. Evidently, for the holidays, there are also those who are willing to pay a higher price, just to pour a quality sparkling wine into their glass.

 In the Italian wine scene, the category of Denominazione d'Origine Controlata e Garantita territories (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) includes a rich representation of all styles of wines, white and red, sparkling and sweet, as well as rosé. In fact, in the current 77 DOCGs of Italy, we have a wide selection of wine styles produced in the country and, in some of them, there are also different typologies. Not only wines produced with distinct winemaking techniques and grapes, but also the result of different aging periods and methods, therefore allowing further distinction within the same denomination. This means that, by considering all the styles and types of wines provided for all the Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin in Italy, the number is well above 77. Except for Liguria, Calabria and Molise, in all the regions of Italy are defined at least one geographical area categorized as DOCG.

 This month we will pour into our glasses two white wines belonging to the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita category, undisputed representatives of Italian wine excellence. Furthermore, two very great wines produced with some of the most celebrated and significant native white grapes in Italy: Verdicchio and Greco. These are, notoriously, the most significant and representative white grapes of Marche and Campania, with which – in the respective regions – are produced wines of absolute value and having an interesting enological versatility in different styles. Moreover, Verdicchio and Greco are widely used in various Denominazione d'Origine Controllata territories in their respective regions and, in each of them, they always manage to characterize their wines. This month's tasting by contrast will examine two very famous territories with Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin providing for the use of Verdicchio and Greco, in the “Riserva” styles: Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva and Greco di Tufo Riserva.

 Talking about Verdicchio means talking about the enological magnificence of the Marche, the region in which this extraordinary grape has been, for many decades, the undisputed protagonist of its great white wines. Although Verdicchio has been made famous throughout the world thanks to the denomination “Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi”, this variety is also used for the production of white wines in other denominations. The territory defined in the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC, in the province of Ancona, also corresponds to that of the wine we are examining this month – Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva – recognized instead as Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG. Both wines are produced with Verdicchio grape, for a minimum of 85% and differ mainly in the aging period. In this regard, it should be noted that, before the establishment of the DOCG, the “Riserva” style was included and defined in the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC disciplinary.

 With the establishment of the denomination “Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva”, which took place in 2011, this style was removed from the DOC disciplinary of the territory, therefore regulated by the DOCG which also provides for the “classico ” mention. In production terms, as already mentioned, it is required the use of a minimum of 85% of Verdicchio grape, with the possible remaining part made up of white grape varieties allowed for cultivation in the Marche region. As regards aging, this wine can be released on the market after 18 months of aging, of which at least 6 in bottle. The containers used for winemaking are part of the enological choices of each producer, therefore allowing the production of wines which are completely fermented and aged in inert containers – such as the steel tank – as well as in wooden ones, such as barriques and barrels. Finally, it should be noted that, although the disciplinary provides for the use of a minimum of 85% Verdicchio grape, it can be stated that all producers prefer to use this variety only.

 Campania can be considered – undoubtedly – among the regions of Italy with an extraordinary vocation for the production of white wines. Here, in fact, some of the most interesting white grape varieties of Italy have been cultivated since time immemorial and, among them, the main “celebrities” evidently are Falanghina, Fiano and Greco. Two of these – not surprisingly – are used in the wines of two territories with Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin of the Region: Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo. Of these two wines, as already mentioned, we examine Greco di Tufo, which, as defined by the relative production disciplinary, also provides for the “Riserva” style. In this wine the Greco variety must be used for at least 85%, while the possible complementary part can be made up of Coda di Volpe, another important white grape variety from Campania.

 As regards, specifically, the style that we examine in our tasting, the production of the “Riserva” requires a minimum aging of 12 months, without providing for the type of container. From the evaluation of the production of the territory – which takes its name from the town of Tufo, in the province of Avellino – although the disciplinary also provides for the use of Coda di Volpe grape, almost all the wines of the denomination are produced exclusively with Greco grape. As regards the use of containers for winemaking, the majority of wines of the denomination Greco di Tufo – also “Riserva” – are carried out in inert containers, in particular the steel tank, and only a minimal part is vinified in casks or barriques. Finally, it should be noted this wine is produced with the Greco variety, a grape that should not be confused with the Greco Bianco – more properly called Greco Bianco di Bianco – the important white grape variety from Calabria.

The color of Greco di Tufo Riserva

 As usual, before proceeding with the wine tasting, we need to find the two bottles that we will pour into our glasses. These are very popular wines and therefore easy to find even on the shelves of less well-stocked shops. In any case, their availability at a specialized wine shop will be absolutely sure, also thanks to the good number of wineries which are committed – respectively – to the production of Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva and Greco di Tufo Riserva. When purchasing the two wines, we will make sure that both are produced with the reference variety alone – therefore, Verdicchio and Greco – since the respective production disciplinary provide for the minimum use of 85% of the two grapes. We will also pay attention to enological practices and, in particular, we will make sure the wines have been fermented and aged in inert containers, preferably in steel tanks. As regards the vintage, we will choose two bottles belonging to the most recent harvest. The wines are poured into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 11 °C. (52 °F)

 Let's pour Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva and Greco di Tufo Riserva into the glasses and begin this month's tasting by contrast, starting with the evaluation of the appearance of the wine from the Marche. Let's tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base in order to evaluate both the color and the transparency. The wine of Jesi presents itself to our eyes with an intense and brilliant straw yellow color, while the transparency, evaluated by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface, is very high. Let's now pay our attention towards the opening of the glass, where the thickness of the wine becomes thin. Here we evaluate the nuance which presents itself with a beautiful golden yellow color. Let's move on to examining the appearance of Greco di Tufo Riserva and, as for the previous wine, tilt the glass over the white surface. At the base we observe an intense and brilliant straw yellow color, not very different from Verdicchio, with high transparency. The nuance, observed at the edge of the wine, towards the opening of the glass, shows a golden yellow color, also in this case not very different from the Marche wine.

 The olfactory profiles of the wines produced with Verdicchio and Greco reveal decidedly different characteristics to the nose, although it is also possible to perceive common qualities. Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva and Greco di Tufo Riserva are no exception, of course. The wines produced with Verdicchio, the great white grape of the Marche, are recognizable on the nose by the aromas of apple, pear and citrus fruits, to which almond, even bitter almond, are practically always found. The world of flowers is characterized by the scents of hawthorn, broom and linden. Furthermore, very often, in wines produced with Verdicchio grapes, can be perceived to the nose the pleasing aroma of anise, as well as pineapple, peach and medlar. The aromas of the wines produced with the Greco variety, therefore including Greco di Tufo, are appreciated on the nose for the fruity sensations of pear, apple and peach. In these wines we can of course smell aromas of flowers as well, in particular, broom, hawthorn and chamomile.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profile of the two wines, starting – as in the previous examination – from Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva. Let's hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate its opening, that is, the analysis of its primary and identifying aromas. On the nose we perceive, clear and intense, the aromas of apple, pear and citrus fruits, often identifiable with citron and grapefruit, as well as pleasing aromas of hawthorn. After having swirled the glass – an operation which favors the development of other aromas – let's proceed with the second smell. The profile of Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva is completed with broom, linden, pineapple, peach and medlar, as well as the characteristic scent of almond and, often, the pleasing touch of anise. Let's now move on to evaluating the opening of Greco di Tufo Riserva and proceed with the first smell. From the glass can be perceived the aromas of pear, apple and peach followed by the aroma of broom. After having swirled the glass and did the second smell, the profile of the wine from Campania is completed with hawthorn, broom, plum and pineapple.

 Let's now proceed with the analysis of the gustatory profiles of the two wines, always starting from Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva. We take the first sip and evaluate the attack of the wine, that is, the primary and identifying gustatory sensations. In the mouth we immediately perceive the pleasing crispness given by the acidity as well as the good body with evident structure. The wine finds balance thanks to the effect of alcohol, often accentuated by the pleasing roundness given by the prolonged aging, as required by the production disciplinary. In the mouth can be perceived flavors of apple, pear, citron and grapefruit, as well as the unmistakable bitter touch of the almond. Let's proceed with the gustatory analysis of Greco di Tufo Riserva and take the first sip in order to evaluate its attack. In the mouth we perceive, also in this case, the intense crispness given by the acidity and which reaches its balance thanks to the effect of alcohol and roundness, the latter usually being more intense than Verdicchio. In the mouth can also be perceived flavors of pear, apple, peach and plum as well as the sensation of good structure.

 We have reached the end of this month's tasting by contrast, so we proceed with the evaluation of the final sensations that the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular the so-called taste-olfactory persistence, among the primary factors of quality. The finish of Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva is persistent and in the mouth we continue to clearly perceive both the crispness and the warm effect of the alcohol supported by roundness. Furthermore, in the mouth can also be perceived flavors of apple, pear and peach, as well as the characteristic pleasing bitter touch of almond which is combined with a hint of anise. The finish of Greco di Tufo Riserva is also persistent and, as in the previous wine, the crispness given by the acidity is clearly perceived in the mouth, well balanced by the effect of the alcohol and the pleasing roundness. In the mouth we also perceive the flavors of apple, pear, peach and plum. Let's now place the glasses side to side and proceed with the final smell, first Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva and then Greco di Tufo Riserva: the olfactory profiles are still distinct and different.

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