Wine, as we know, begins with the harvest of grapes from the vineyard, which are immediately pressed to obtain the must that will then be fermented. This, at least in theory and in general terms, is what happens in the production of the majority of wines, but not all. In some specific cases, for example, the grapes are not pressed immediately after harvest. This specifically concerns the production of a special category of sweet wines, the so-called and improperly called in Italy as passito, for which it is necessary to dry the grapes before pressing them. These wines – better defined as “produced from dried grapes”, since it is the grapes that require drying, not the wine – generally offer a sensorial experience of enormous complexity. In particular, the sensations perceived on the nose, directly determined by the time of aging, the duration of the drying of the grapes, and the method used, in addition to the winemaking practices employed throughout the entire production cycle.

 The wines we are pouring in the tasting by contrast of this month belong, indeed, to the “sweet wines from dried grapes”. For this occasion, our tasting is decidedly about a contrasting evaluation, featuring wines that are clearly distinct because they are produced not only with different grapes, but also with varieties belonging to opposing families. The first, in fact, is made with white grapes, the second, on the other hand, with red grapes: Vin Santo del Chianti Classico and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale. Both, of course, involve drying the grapes before producing the must that will be fermented and subsequently aged. This characteristic, in addition to the obvious difference in appearance between the two wines, allows us to evaluate the differences, so to speak, in character, particularly in their olfactory and gustatory profiles. On the nose, substantial differences will inevitably be detected, as well as on the taste, especially in the factors of crispness, roundness and astringency, the latter being important and more intense in the wine produced with red grapes.

 Although the so-called Vin Santo wines are produced in various regions in Italy, particularly in central Italy and Trentino-Alto Adige, Tuscany is by far the region most closely associated with this wine. Furthermore, Tuscany is the region with the largest number of denomination of origin specifically dedicated to this type of wine: Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, Vin Santo del Chianti, Vin Santo di Carmignano, and Vin Santo di Montepulciano. It should also be noted that these four disciplinary, in addition to recognizing Vin Santo produced with white grape varieties, also define “occhio di pernice”, a distinctly Tuscan specialty produced primarily with Sangiovese. As for the “white” style, all require the use of Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca Lunga grapes, in addition to other varieties defined in their respective production disciplinary.

 As for Vin Santo del Chianti Classico – the wine we are examining in our tasting – in addition to the aforementioned grapes, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica is also used. These three varieties, alone or together, must constitute at least 60% of the composition, while the possible complementary portion may consist of white and red varieties permitted for cultivation in Tuscany. After natural drying in special rooms, the grapes – which, as a result of drying, must have a sugar content of no less than 27% – are pressed and then sent to slow fermentation in caratelli, small wooden barrels that, according to the disciplinary, cannot exceed 300 liters in volume. Vin Santo ages in these barrels for at least 24 months, although it is not uncommon for the wine to remain in the caratelli for a much longer time than this minimum period, often even more than five years. A production choice that, understandably, increases the complexity of the wine, enriching it with olfactory and gustatory sensorial qualities.

 Among the wines of Apulia, Primitivo di Manduria is certainly among those that have achieved fame beyond the borders of the region. Although the most well-known style of this wine is the red, it has always coexisted with a version made from the same grapes, allowed to dry before fermentation. This is, in fact, Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale, initially included in the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata “Primitivo di Manduria”, but since 2011 it has been recognized with a separate Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin, DOCG). Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale also holds significant enological importance, since – in the panorama of sweet wines made from dried grapes – those produced with red grape varieties represent a decided minority. A precious and rare wine, therefore, rich in personality, capable, in truth, like other sweet red wines from dried grapes, of giving the senses of the taster a unique experience.

 According to the production disciplinary, Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale is produced exclusively with the eponymous grape, allowed to dry directly on the vine or on racks or in special rooms. Regarding the vinification process, there are no requirements about the type of container used. Because of the specific characteristics of the wine, producers – generally speaking – conduct the fermentation and subsequent aging in inert containers, particularly steel tanks. Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale can be released for consumption after June 1st following the harvest. The choice of vinification in inert containers is highly appropriate, also considering the specific characteristics of the wine and the grape, especially due to the presence of the sensorial element of astringency conferred by polyphenols of Primitivo, which, with a short barrel aging, could be excessive. An essential factor, therefore, for the balance of the wine, not least with the aim of avoiding excessive roundness, which is already intense thanks to the use of dried grapes.

The color of Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

 Before beginning the tasting by contrast of this month, we need to find the wines we will be pouring in the glasses. Vin Santo del Chianti Classico and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale, compared to other wines, are not widely available, partly because of the smaller quantities produced. Furthermore, sweet wines made from dried grapes attract less consumer interest and are therefore more difficult to find. They are certainly available in well-stocked wine shops, but much less so in large-scale retail outlets. As for the composition of Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, we will ensure it is made with Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca Lunga, possibly also Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, exactly as provided for in the relative disciplinary. As for the vintage, the choice – in both cases – is for bottles from the most recent harvests. The two wines are poured into their respective tasting glasses: 14 °C (57 °F) for Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, 16 °C (61 °F) for Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale.

 Let's pour the two wines of our tasting by contrast into their respective glasses and evaluate their appearance, that is, how the wines are seen to the eyes in terms of color and transparency. The first wine we examine is Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, we therefore tilt its glass over a white surface. We observe the base, where we can see an intense and brilliant amber yellow color, often with a decidedly dark hue, while the transparency – assessed by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface – is good, although not very high. We shift our attention to the opening of the glass, where the thickness of the wine is thinner, and observe the color of the nuance, which confirms the basic amber yellow hue. Let's now move on to evaluate the appearance of Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale. The color of this Apulian wine is an intense and dark ruby red, showing decidedly low transparency. The nuance, observed at the edge of the glass, has ruby red hues, sometimes garnet.

 The olfactory profiles of Vin Santo del Chianti Classico and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale are, understandably, significantly different, primarily due to the grapes used in their production. White grapes for the Tuscan wine, a single red grape for the Apulian one. In both cases, the aromas perceived by the nose are more complex than those of wines produced with the same fresh grapes, both due to the greater concentration of the must following the drying process and the extended aging period. Equally important is the subtle effect of oxidation, which, again depending on the aging period, contributes to enriching the olfactory profiles of the wines with complex sensations. In the specific case of Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale, produced with the red grape of the same name, the olfactory profile generally tends to retain more of the floral and fruity qualities often found in equivalent wines produced with fresh grapes. However, things are very different in Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, where floral aromas are generally absent, while those attributable to fruit tend towards sensations of jam and dried fruits.

 We resume the tasting by contrast of this month and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Vin Santo del Chianti Classico and Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale, starting with the Tuscan wine. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we proceed with the first smell in order to assess the opening of the wine. The nose perceives very intense aromas of raisins, dried figs, almonds, and honey, sensations that introduce the complexity of wine. We swirl the glass, which helps develop the olfactory qualities of the wine, and proceed with the second smell. The nose perceives aromas reminiscent of dried fruit, such as apricot, and jam, particularly peach and quince. There are also sensations reminiscent of citrus peel, caramel, walnut, and vanilla, imparted by the wood aging. Let's now evaluate the opening of Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale and proceed with the first smell. On the nose, intense aromas of dried grapes are perceived, along with sensations reminiscent of black and red fruit, particularly blackberry, black cherry, and plum, along with violet. After swirling the glass, the aromatic profile of this Apulian wine is completed with blueberry, tamarind, raspberry, and carob.

 Let's move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast, starting – again – with Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. The first sip of this Tuscan wine reveals a distinct and intense sweetness, immediately followed by the warm sensation of alcohol, with a pronounced roundness, perfectly balanced by the crispness provided by the acidity and a robust body. On the palate, we perceive flavors of raisins, dried figs, and dried apricots, as well as more complex sensations reminiscent of caramel, honey, and jam. Let's move on to evaluating Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale and take a sip in order to assess its attack. Here too, the distinct sweetness of the wine is immediately perceived on the palate, followed by the warm sensation of alcohol and a pleasing roundness. It should be noted the balance, which, in this Apulian wine, is determined by an unusual sensation for a sweet wine: astringency. On the palate, flavors of blackberry, plum, black cherry, and blueberry are perceived, along with a pleasing roundness that effectively balances the astringency produced by the tannins of Primitivo. The structure of the wine is clearly fuller than that of Vin Santo.

 We have reached the end of the tasting by contrast of this month, we can therefore move on to evaluating the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth, particularly their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Vin Santo del Chianti Classico is persistent, leaving intense and pleasing flavors of raisins, dried figs, and dried apricots, along with caramel and honey. The sensations of sweetness and roundness are also evident, balanced by the crispness of the acidity. The finish of Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale is persistent, leaving intense and pleasing flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plum, and blueberry, along with sweetness and roundness, in this case balanced by the astringency of the tannins. Furthermore, the palate perceives a distinct sensation of structure, decidedly robust. Two completely different wines, although belonging to the same category – that of dessert wines made from dried grapes – however having very different sensorial profiles.