Talking about Marches, an enchanting region of center Italy, the Verdicchio dei
Castelli di Jesi is surely one of the first wines that come to mind, it surely
is not the only one, but among the most representative grapes and wines of the
region Verdicchio surely has one of the most prominent positions. It is in the
heart of the production area of this excellent wine, encircled by pleasing hilly
spurs, that we find the headquarters of Monte Schiavo, a winery that produces
white wines, including the famed and renowned Verdicchio, as well as red wines
such as Rosso Conero, Rosso Piceno and Lacrima di Morro d'Alba.
|
| |
Monte Schiavo's cellar for bottle
refinement | |
|
We met the managing director of Monte Schiavo, Mr. Gianluigi Calzetta, who
illustrated and introduced us to the winery: «Monte Schiavo was established in
1978 as a cooperative business because of the will of many members and the most
important of them was represented by Pieralisi family. In 1995, as a
consequence of some disagreement among some members, the cooperative was quit
and Pieralisi family bought the winery that currently is called as La Vite
S.p.A.».
Like we said, the winery is located in the area of production and of controlled
denomination of origin (DOC) of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and this wine,
as well as the grape used to make it, represents an important aspect for Monte
Schiavo, as said by Mr. Calzetta: «Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi represents
60% of our total income and it surely is the most important product for our
winery. Verdicchio is one of the most ancient vines for which historical
evidences can be found and when it is cultivated and processed properly, it is
capable of producing extremely important products. Verdicchio is a very
versatile grape which allows the production of many types of wine, it is
an important and robust vine and it can withstand to cold climate very well.
Thanks to the grape's versatility, we produce many styles of Verdicchio and
precisely Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classic, Superior, Reserve, Passito
(sweet) as well as a sparkling wine made by using the Charmat method. The
grapes used for the production of base Verdicchio are harvested from September
20 and the first days of October, whereas grapes for the Superior Verdicchio,
reserve and late harvests, are harvested later. Passito is produced by allowing
the grapes to dry in the vine, in the hope of having favorable meteorological
conditions, as recently we had bad weather here.»
Monte Schiavo does not mean Verdicchio only, of course. The winery pays
particular attention on local grapes as well as on the traditional products of
these lands, particularly on Lacrima di Morro, a local grape that was recently
revaluated and it is widely appreciated and highly esteemed by the winery.
Concerning this aspect, Mr. Calzetta illustrates the other products of Monte
Schiavo: «our winery is located outside the DOC production area of Lacrima di
Morro d'Alba and we are among the few wineries that produce this wine. We
produce Lacrima di Morro d'Alba since a very long time, even before the area
was designated and entitled as area of controlled origin. In order not to
penalize the historical wineries that produced Lacrima di Morro and that are
located outside of the DOC area, a special derogation has been specifically
granted and therefore we can continue producing this wine. Lacrima di Morro is
a very ancient grape, unfortunately it is currently not widely known.
Unfortunately it is not properly revaluated, even by producers of Marches and
they usually use this grape in order to add color and aromas to a wine, and it
is scarcely used by itself in order to make wine. Fortunately there are some
wineries that revaluated this grape and worked hard in order to produce wines
exclusively made with this grape and this has been a striking success. Our
winery, also thanks to our decennial experience in producing wine with Lacrima
di Morro, is by now one of the most important producers for this wine. To be
honest, we are not the only ones to be acclaimed for having revaluated the
Lacrima di Morro, the merit of this revaluation also goes to Mancinelli winery
who strongly believed in this grape.»
Among the red berried grapes found in the Marches, a prominent position is for
Sangiovese and Montepulciano, the grapes used to produce the Rosso Piceno and
Rosso Conero. Talking about Rosso Piceno produced at Monte Schiavo, Mr.
Calzetta says: «we have vineyards that produce both Sangiovese and
Montepulciano and this allows us to produce Rosso Piceno. These vineyards are
located in the Rosso Piceno DOC area. We cannot produce Rosso Piceno Superiore
from these vineyards because the grapes must come from a very delimited and
small area in the province of Ascoli Piceno. However, thanks to the support of
our wine maker, we produce in his winery, located in the province of Ascoli
Piceno, Rosso Piceno Superiore as well, therefore in our production we have
both Rosso Piceno and Rosso Piceno Superiore. This is an important wine,
unfortunately it is not widely known, but it is rapidly emerging on the scene
and it is giving us lots of satisfactions. This wine certainly suffered the
notoriety of the neighboring Rosso Conero, last but not the least, the fact
that the province of Ascoli Piceno has been for a very long time ignored as a
wine producing area, however I believe in the forthcoming years Rosso Piceno
will be highly revaluated and it will probably become one of the most important
wines of the region.»
The area of Castelli di Jesi, the area where Monte Schiavo's headquarters are
located, inevitably make us talk about Verdicchio: «the view of this area is
wonderful, this valley, that begins from the mountains and is extended as far
as the Adriatic sea, is particularly suited for the cultivation of vine; many
historical documents say the grape as well as its cultivation was present on
this territory since some thousands years. The area is named as Castelli di
Jesi because every town of the area still has its own castello, (Italian
for castle) a feature that was the reason why they decided to name this
area like that. This is a valley where it is very pleasing to work in, both for
the opportunities of the territory's products and for the joy of living in a
such beautiful view. Verdicchio is a wine not really considered and esteemed
for what it is in reality, maybe this is also because of our faults. Verdicchio
is a great grape and this is demonstrated by the fact that it allows us to
produce many types of wine, which are particularly versatile and can be
matched with many foods, not just with fish, but also with certain foods where
red wines are usually matched to. According to some recent scientific
researches, it seems that Verdicchio is among the white berried grapes having a
high contents in phenolic compounds, just like red wines, so the analogy with
this kind of wines may be obvious. In case this theory is going to be
confirmed, we could also end up supporting the idea that Verdicchio has the
very same beneficial effects of red wine for health.»
|
| |
| The cosy Monte Schiavo's wine shop |
|
Talking about production aspects in Monte Schiavo, Mr. Calzetta says: «in this
moment the quantity of grapes harvested in the vineyards of our property allows
us to completely satisfy our production needs. We currently have vineyards
cultivated with Verdicchio for 105 hectares (about 259 acres), 10 hectares
(about 25 acres) cultivated with Lacrima di Morro and 15 hectares (about
37 acres) cultivated with other red species. In recent times our winery's
production has drastically increased and we estimate it will continue to
increase: from 1996 to now, our sales have increased threefold, therefore we
believe we will probably need grape from other producers in the future
vintages. Possible grape providers will be selected by our winery anyway and
they will work on the vineyard according the directions of our agronomist, Dr.
Capogrossi». Talking about production, let's focus on past productions of
Verdicchio «in our cellar we still have bottles of vintages from 1995 to 2001
of Pallio di San Floriano, just because we believe this particular wine has
particular characteristics of aging and the majority of bottles are still in
perfect conditions and confirm the great versatility of Verdicchio as well as
its qualities.» Talking about this year's production, Mr. Calzetta express his
anticipations: «despite this year has been characterized by unfavorable
meteorological conditions, the 2002 will be a good year, after all. The good
meteorological conditions we had during the harvest favored us, however to
better take the opportunities of the period, we worked on the vineyard and
thinned out the vines and we decided to take the risk of delaying the harvest.
Our decision turned to be good and we have been successful in harvesting grapes
which had a good content of sugar as well as good quality. Considering this
year's meteorological conditions, I sincerely thought of having a very bad
vintage, indeed, we will have a good vintage, surely not the best, but surely
good anyway.»
Talking about countries where Monte Schiavo's products are sold, Mr. Calzetta
says «our wines are present in the entire Italian territory and we are present
in every continent of the world as well. Of course, there are countries where
our presence is marginal. Our reference markets are Europe, United Stated of
America and Japan. We are also present in China, Australia, New Zealand, South
America and Center America. Verdicchio is favorably welcomed by the markets of
the world because consumers are finally getting a better knowledge about wine.
The best advantage of Verdicchio is the excellent quality to price ratio. When
consumers realize a good Verdicchio can just cost about € 4,00 and this
wine has nothing less than other and more expensive wines, they are pleasantly
impressed and they appreciate it. After having been the most representative
wine of Italy, Verdicchio has had a declining era, mainly because of some
mistakes made by some producers, therefore the consumers and the market lost
their interest for this wine. With time we understood the most important thing
in order to properly revaluate Verdicchio is quality and this process must
begin in the vineyard, nowadays, thanks to the renewed efforts, Verdicchio is a
wine which is getting more and more back to its prestigious position.»
Let's see in detail Monte Schiavo's products: «Pallio di San Floriano is a
late harvest and it classified as a Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Superiore.
In the last four years, this wine has always been rated as the best one of its
types. The grapes used for its production come from the vineyards of Fossato
and Tassanare, and we have a yield of 70 quintals per hectare (about
6.8 tons/acre) and it is not refined in wood. Bando di San Settimio, which
is produced with the same base wine of Pallio di San Floriano, is refined
in barrique, a characteristic that, according to our philosophy, cannot prevail
over wine. One of our most important products is Le Giuncare, a Verdicchio
dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva produced with grapes harvested in vineyards at low
yield, about 70 quintals per hectare, (about 6.8 tons/acre) and it is usually
released on the market after two years from harvest. Recently we started
producing a very limited quantity of unfiltered Pallio di San Floriano and
the results we get have been truly encouraging and we are thinking about
releasing it to the market the next year. Another important wine we produce is
Archè, a passito (sweet) wine that can be matched with spicy cheese and
pastry, it is produced in limited quantities and the grapes are allowed to dry
in the vine. For the first time, this year we produced a Rosso Conero called
Adeodato, the wine is named after the founder of the Pieralisi group. This
wine is produced with very low yields, 55 quintals per hectare, (about
5.4 tons/acre) and we only use Montepulciano grape. The result is a wine of
great importance and high prestige, which gave us lots of satisfaction and made
our efforts worth of it. Rosso Piceno Superiore Sassaiolo is produced with
grapes cultivated in the Offida area and are processed by our wine maker in the
province of Ascoli Piceno. One of our wines which is among the most looked for,
is Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, a wine which is particularly liked by our
consumers. This is a wine having intense aromas of red berried fruit and they
can even be perceived as the wine is being poured in the glass. It has an
intense pomegranate color and an unsuspicious full body, it is supposed to be
drunk in its young age when its pleasing fruit aromas are well expressed and
developed. Our winery is investing a lot on Lacrima di Morro d'Alba because we
are convinced this wine will have a great future and we are even thinking of
starting a new production winery expressly dedicated to this wine in the DOC
area of Lacrima di Morro d'Alba.»
|