Talking about Fattoria Paradiso means, first of all, talking about one of the
greatest leading persons of Emilia Romagna's enology, it means talking about
Mr. Mario Pezzi, the passionate and ingenious wine producer that has been
responsible for the success and the rebirth of the enology of his homeland. A
great wine producer who deserves the highest praises for his merits, such as
for having discovered again the local grapes Barbarossa, Cagnina and Pagadebit,
which were surely destined to disappear forever from our patrimony and, last
but not the least, the conviction and the intuition of creating the very first
reserve of Sangiovese. All that and more is, ladies and gentlemen, Mr. Mario
Pezzi, whose philosophy and passion is truly expressed and told by his wines.
We get to Fattoria Paradiso, in Bertinoro, indisputable homeland of Albana
grape, the very first Italian white wine to be designated as DOCG, few
kilometers far from Cesena and about 20 kilometers from the Adriatic sea. Mrs.
Graziella Pezzi, Mario Pezzi's daughter, welcomes us to Fattoria Paradiso with
a warm and kind hospitality, a good characteristic of the people of these
lands. Mrs. Pezzi opens her cellar's doors and starts talking about the
historical origins of these places: «Fattoria Paradiso was an ancient residence
of Roman times and in 1450 was Marco Palmezzano's house, a famous painter for
his representations of Holy Nativity and he was disciple of Melozzo da Forlì.
In the noble floor of the house there is a fireplace which has the initials
M.P. carved on it, that is Marco Palmezzano, which curiously are the very
same initials of the current proprietor, Mario Pezzi. The residence was
subsequently a property of Counts Lovatelli and the last proprietors of this
family was Countess Ugarte Lovatelli who sold this residence to my
great-grandfather Costantino in the middle of 1800 and from that moment on the
residence is property of Pezzi's family. My father Mario started the winery
business in these properties in 1950 and in 2000 we celebrated our fiftieth
anniversary.»
Let's get into the rich wine production of Fattoria Paradiso and, concerning
this subject, Mrs. Pezzi shortly illustrates her wines: «we produce both white
wines and red wines, as well as sparkling wines and sweet wines. Our white
wines include a dry Albana Pezzi di Paradiso, a sweet Albana Contessina
Ugarte, Trebbiano di Romagna Donna Ubalda, Pagadebit di Romagna Brezza
di Paradiso, a lightly sparkling wine Paradiso and, lastly, Jacopo a
wine produced with Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc which is aged in barrique. We
also make two sparkling wines: Bert'in Oro, a sweet wine produced with
Albana grape, and Villa Paradiso Brut produced with Chardonnay and
Sauvignon Blanc. Moreover, we also produce a sweet wine, Albana di Romagna
Passito Gradisca, which was the preferred wine of the great Italian
director Federico Fellini and it was him who chose the wine's name as a tribute
to one of the characters in his famous movie Amarcord. Among red wines we
also have a nouveau wine, Garibaldino, that was first released in 1982, in
the year of the centenary of Giuseppe Garibaldi's death, and it is produced
with Sangiovese and Merlot, then we produce a Cagnina di Romagna Sinfonia
d'Autunno, a Sangiovese di Romagna Maestri di Vigna, which is produced
with little berried Sangiovese, therefore not really suited for aging, however
it shows a good structure and agreeability. We also produce Sangiovese di
Romagna Superiore Riserva Castello Ugarte Vigna delle Lepri, produced with
big berried Sangiovese (Sangiovese grosso), therefore it is well suited for
aging, it is aged for two years in casks and six months in barrique. Vigna
delle Lepri was the very first reserve of Sangiovese ever created. My father,
in 1960, was convinced that Sangiovese could give magnificent wines suited for
aging and he gave a public show of his ideas and decided to store 5000
bottles of Sangiovese in an old snow tank that we have in our garden. The
ceremony was attended by many public authorities as well as famous people
working on the wine business; the tank was sealed and the key was given to a
notary. After seven years, in occasion of another ceremony, the tank was opened
and it gave the world magnificent wines. The very first bottle was uncorked by
the famous Italian wine journalist Luigi Veronelli and it was the confirmation
that Mario Pezzi's ideas and intuitions were right. Our Sangiovese reserve was
also requested by the former President of the Italian Republic Mr. Sandro
Pertini and our wines have been part of the Quirinal's cellars since then. The
wine was served in occasion of a formal dinner in honor of the former President
of the United States of America Mr. Ronald Reagan. Our production also includes
Barbarossa Il Dosso, a grape my father discovered again in the beginning of
the 1950 in a very old Sangiovese vineyard that he planned of uprooting, and my
father, while was checking the level of grapes' ripeness, noticed a
particular bunch different from the one of Sangiovese; it was smaller as
well as having small berries and an indented leaf having a purple border.
Samples of this grape were analyzed by many experts in the aim of identifying
it, unfortunately, no one was able to determine its species. They also
researched the grape's DNA in order to find some clues that could identify it,
but they did not find any similarity with any other grape, therefore, we
decided to name this grape as Barbarossa, in honor of emperor Federico
Barbarossa who lived in the castle of Bertinoro. Finally, the last wine created
at Fattoria Paradiso, Mito, which is produced with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Syrah. The label for this wine has been created, including a
dedication, by the famous Italian actor Dario Fo, who was also awarded with the
Nobel prize. We also produce two grappas, Chicca with Pagadebit's pomace
and Grappa di Barbarossa with Barbarossa's pomace. At Fattoria Paradiso we
also produce the olive oil Palmezzano, dedicated to the homonym painter and
Vignatico a balsamic grape sauce.»
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| The magnificent entrance staircase to the
aging cellars |
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We continue our visit to the cellar and Mrs. Pezzi ushered us in the aging
rooms and in the Fattoria Paradiso's private cellar, a real wine cathedral
where they keep Fattoria Paradiso's wine bottles as well as other wineries'
wines. These rooms are preceded by an impressive staircase having at its sides
and at its roof hundreds of bottles, neatly ordered, giving the entrance an
amazing and gorgeous view. At the end of this staircase, there is a new
surprise waiting to impress us. Mrs. Pezzi opens the door of Fattoria
Paradiso's private cellar and, again, the show is as impressive and as
magnificent as before. The entrance to the private cellar is preceded by a
gallery where its sides and roof are adorned by historical bottles of the
cellar, the private cellar's entrance is as evocative as impressive as the
staircase: a multitude of bottles that every wine lover would like to own.
Mrs. Pezzi tells us very interesting aspects of this private cellar and of the
cultural events held at Fattoria Paradiso: «we keep bottles as old as 200
years, here we have bottles dated back to 1800, both bottles from our
production and from others, as well as keeping wines produced with Albana dated
back to 1961, a truly wonderful vintage. In this cellar we also keep our
historical wines as well as wines produced by many wineries of the world that
we also use to compare our products with the one of others, to understand what
we can learn from others and what we know already and that we could teach
others instead. Here we also keep wines that are being shipped to the Vatican
City, as well as the bottles that were selected by the University of Bologna in
occasion of the celebrations for its 900 years. We also pay attention and care
to our wine labels: they usually depict paintings of the winners of the
biennial painting contest Vinarte which I personally organize in Fattoria
Paradiso's rooms. We always dedicated much of our time and resources to social
and cultural events, including Ospitalità a Tavola, with the collaboration
of Donne del Vino, as well as the International Paradiso Prize, a
contest for contemporary chamber music. In this cellar we also keep the labels
that famous people wanted to create for us during their stay at Fattoria
Paradiso.»
Let's continue talking about wine production and the territory where Fattoria
Paradiso makes its wines: «we are located in a hill which is towards the sea
and therefore this area benefits from the influence of the sea climate and it
is sheltered from northern winds. Our winery strongly believe in local grapes
of this area just because this is the best place for them to grow up and, being
their natural homeland, they are capable of giving the very best of them.
Moreover, we also believe in our territory, in our traditions and in what our
fathers taught us. This strategy has proven to be effective in the course of
the years and gave us lots of satisfactions, therefore, why should we change
them? If we truly need to change something, we have to change things in order
to improve the quality of our products, working in the vineyard while trying to
lowering the yield, paying attention to cellar practices, hopefully with the
help of new technologies, anyway, always respecting our traditions. We do not
think it would be wise to deny our traditions, that agricultural philosophy
which is, however, part of us. These choices surely gave us the best
satisfactions and we believe this is what we will do in future, also because in
this homologated world, where everything seems to look the same, the ones
that will be able to keep their typical characters will be successful at the
end and will get positive results. Consumers need to discover again the
origins of wine as well as something different, I think that always
producing the same things, no matter the area where they are from, this will
surely tend to be boring. This is the reason why we prefer giving our consumers
a good wine made of Barbarossa or a good Sangiovese where there can be found
the real characters of the people from Romagna: we are simple people, anyway we
also are sincere and the same sincerity is found in the wines of this land. We
also created a wine made of the Bordeaux blend, Mito, because we wanted to deny
the ones who accused us of being too much traditionalist; the result gave a
modern wine which proved that, however, we have been good in creating a wine
which is not part of our traditions, a wine that was a striking success since
its release everywhere in the world.»
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The impressive entrance of Fattoria Paradiso's
private cellar | |
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Talking about countries where Fattoria Paradiso's wines are sold, Mrs.
Graziella Pezzi tells us «our products are present in Italy, as well as in
Europe, Germany, Scandinavia, Netherlands, Denmark and France. Our wines are
also sold in the United States of America, Canada and Japan.»
Concerning anticipations for the last vintage, Mrs. Pezzi says «we already had
some good results with nouveau wine and with Cagnina di Romagna, however, the
2002 will not be a vintage to remember. I would also like to say that just
before the harvest, most of producers complained about huge losses and the
expectations were bad for everyone; after the harvest there have been
expectations that denied the previous ones. I sincerely believe that one should
be more honest as well as recognizing the real value of every vintage. This
year our agronomist made us thin out vineyard and wanted us to vigorously
defoliate the vines, something that allowed us to obtain a product which surely
is more than reasonable. Unfortunately red wines of this vintage will slightly
lack in color because of the unfavorable meteorological conditions.»
Fattoria Paradiso also produces two excellent grappas made of the pomace of
Barbarossa and Pagadebit. Mrs. Pezzi reminds us «Fattoria Paradiso produces two
grappas, Chicca with Pagadebit's pomace and Grappa di Barbarossa with
Barbarossa's pomace. They are both smooth and round, very agreeable, which
generally meet consumers' taste, including the one of ladies.» We personally
tasted Grappa di Barbarossa: it has a crystalline aspect and it is very clear
and limpid, at the nose are revealed good aromas of hazelnut, peach, apricot,
dried plum as well as elegant hints of violet and raspberry. In the mouth is
truly round and soft, almost velvety, very agreeable, with a persistent finish
of hazelnut, peach and raspberry. A very well made grappa, truly agreeable, the
alcohol is well balanced and does not burn even though the grappa has 42%
of alcohol by volume.
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