In the enological scene of Marches - the pleasant region of central Italy which from the Apennines goes to the Adriatic sea - there is a grape which more than others distinguishes the wines of the region, a grape which contributed to the fundamental rebirth of the wines of Marches: Verdicchio. Among the most appreciated grapes of Italy, Verdicchio is capable of making full bodied wines while proving an interesting enological versatility. Despite the most common wine style produced with Verdicchio is dry, with this grape are also produced excellent sweet wines, as well as sparkling wines, including classic method. Before being used for the production of excellent white wines, Verdicchio had to go a long way, a journey began 50 years ago, when to the renowned white berried grape of Marches was assigned the job of relaunching the wines of the region. Together with Verdicchio was also released the classic amphorae shaped bottle: an indissoluble couple which distinguished worldwide the wines produced with this grape.

 Autochthonous grape of Marches and spread in the territory of the region since many centuries, Verdicchio was mentioned for the first time in 1579 in a document which imposed the cultivation of this grape in the territory of Matelica. Despite Verdicchio is common all over the territory of Marches, there are two areas which are mainly associated to this white grape: Matelica, in the province of Macerata, and Castelli di Jesi, in the province of Ancona. Telling what is the best of the two areas for the production of Verdicchio is pretty hard, as both in Matelica and in Jesi are being produced with this grape excellent examples of white wines in the dry, sweet and sparkling styles. Despite Verdicchio grape is mainly common in the Marches - its homeland - this white grape is also found, in small quantities, in Umbria and Latium regions, in both cases used together with other grapes for the production of some Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wines.

 Verdicchio is an extremely versatile grape and with which can be produced different styles of wines. Among the most interesting qualities of Verdicchio must certainly be mentioned the good body of its wines, a quality allowing the wines produced with the famous white berried grape of Marches to be aged for many years in the bottle. Because of its structure, Verdicchio is frequently defined as a red wine disguised as a white wine: some scientific researches done on this aspect, suggest Verdicchio is among the white berried grapes having the highest content in polyphenols. Another characteristic of wines produced with Verdicchio - and which is also found in wines produced with other white grapes - is the characteristic aroma of almond, a quality which is clearly evident since the first moments of tasting, very correspondent to the mouth, and which can be clearly perceived after the wine has been swallowed.

	The three Verdicchio wines of our comparative tasting

 The goal of this month's comparative tasting is the study of the qualities of Verdicchio by means of the evaluation of wines produced with different wine making techniques. In order to simplify the evaluation, the tasting will examine three wines produced with 100% Verdicchio and coming from the same area - Castelli di Jesi - the widest production area for this grape. The first wine of our comparative tasting is Garofoli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium, aged for 15 months in steel tanks. The second wine is Sartarelli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Balciana, produced with late harvested grapes, whereas the third wine is Umani Ronchi's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio, partially fermented in barrique and aged in cement tanks. Garofoli's Verdicchio will be served at a temperature of 10° C (50° F), whereas the other two wines will be served at a temperature of 12° C (54° F). The comparative tasting will be done, as usual, by using three ISO glasses.

 Just like any other wine, no matter the style, also the color in wines produced with Verdicchio varies according to the wine making techniques, the quality of grapes and aging. The color which is mainly observed in Verdicchio fermented and aged in inert containers - such as steel or cement tanks - is more or less intense straw yellow, rarely with pale or greenish yellow nuances. Thanks to its characteristics, wines produced with Verdicchio can be aged for many years in bottle, a period during which the color will get intense golden yellow hues. The same color is generally observed in wines produced with overripe grapes and in sweet wines, in which the color can easily get to amber yellow. Verdicchio is also used for the production of wines fermented or aged in cask, a wine making technique which gives Verdicchio intense golden yellow colors.

 The first wine of which we will examine appearance is Garofoli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium. By holding the glass tilted over a white surface - a sheet of paper is enough - at the base of the liquid mass will be observed a brilliant straw yellow color, whereas the nuance, observed to the edge of the liquid mass, towards the opening of the glass, will be characterized by a greenish yellow color. The second wine we will examine is Sartarelli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Balciana. The color of this wine is intense straw yellow with golden yellow nuances, the sign of the use of overripe grapes for its production. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the third wine of our comparative tasting: Umani Ronchi's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio, the only one of the three to be partially fermented and aged in cask. The color of this wine is brilliant golden yellow and the nuances will be of the same color.

 Verdicchio is rarely used together with other grapes for the production of wines, in most of the cases they are produced with 100% Verdicchio. The most characteristic aromas of Verdicchio recall fruit and flowers, sometimes can also be perceived aromas recalling tropical fruits. One of the most characteristic and identifying aromas of Verdicchio certainly is almond, a quality which is also found in the taste. Among the most characteristic fruit aromas in Verdicchio are mentioned pear, apple, peach, plum and citrus fruits, whereas the most common flower aromas found in Verdicchio are hawthorn and broom, as well as chamomile and linden, rarely acacia and jasmine. Fermentation and aging in cask give Verdicchio aromas of vanilla ad toasted wood, qualities which get accentuated in case of the barrique. In aged wines are pretty frequent the aromas of honey and yellow berried fruit jams. In Verdicchio are also found aromas of aromatic herbs, of which the most common ones and thyme and sage.

 The first wine of which we will examine aromas is Garofoli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we will evaluate opening aromas, that is the aromas made of “light” molecules and which needs a small quantity of oxygen in order to volatilize. The first smell will allow the perception of the aromas of jasmine, apple and pear, very pleasing and clean. After having properly swirled the glass, in order to allow the volatilization of the aromas made of “heavy” molecules and which need a higher quantity of oxygen in order to fully express, we will proceed with the second smell. It will be perceived aromas of almond - a very identifying quality of Verdicchio - as well as pineapple, hawthorn, broom, honey, citrus fruits and plum. It should also be noticed delicate aromas of linden and peach, of lesser intensity than the other ones, however well balanced with the aromatic profile of the wine.

 Let's now pass to the second wine of our comparative tasting: Sartarelli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Balciana, produced with overripe grapes. The opening aromas of this wine will be characterized by honey, hawthorn and apricot: a completely different opening from the previous wine. After having swirled the glass, let's proceed with the second smell which will allow the perception of the aromas of pineapple, chamomile, quince, hazelnut, pear, peach, grapefruit and almond, as well as the unmistakable hint of noble rot. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the last wine, Umani Ronchi's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio, the only one of the three to be fermented and aged - although partially - in barrique. Opening aromas of this wine will be characterized by pear, apple and almond, typical aromas in Verdicchio. After having swirled the glass, we will proceed with the second smell which will allow the perception of aromas of vanilla - a sign of the passage in barrique - honey, peach jam, citrus fruits, pineapple, hawthorn, hazelnut and plum, as well as a pleasing hints of mineral.

 One of the gustatory qualities which mainly characterizes wines produced with Verdicchio grape is body. In wines produced with this grape the structure is clearly more robust than most of white wines. Verdicchio is among the white berried grapes having the highest content in polyphenols, a characteristic for which it is commonly considered as a “red wine disguised as a white wine”. In dry wines produced with Verdicchio, to the remarkable structure is usually added a pretty evident acidity, two qualities requiring the presence of a proper quantity of alcohol in order to make the wine balanced. The alcohol by volume of wines produced with Verdicchio can in fact reach 13-14.5%. The primary aromatic qualities of Verdicchio are generally found in the taste as well, in particular the almond aroma - one of the most characteristic ones - in particular after the wine has been swallowed and during the phases of the evaluation of taste-olfactory persistence.

 We will begin the gustatory evaluation from Garofoli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium. The attack of this Verdicchio is characterized for its good crispness and its good structure - a body clearly fuller than most of whites - well balanced by alcohol. It should also be noticed the excellent correspondence to the nose. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the second wine, Sartarelli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Balciana, produced with overripe grapes. The attack of this wine is characterized by a pleasing roundness and smoothness, in which can also be perceived a good crispness well balanced by alcohol. As we could easily expect, the body of Balciana is evidently fuller than the previous wine. Let's now pass to the last of the three wines: Umani Ronchi's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio. Also the attack of this wine is characterized by a full body - in this case also given by the barrique - and a pleasing roundness as well as a good crispness, everything well balanced by alcohol.

 After having evaluated the three organoleptic aspects of our three wines, we will now proceed with the examination of the final sensations, the ones which can be obtained after having swallowed the wine. The finish of Garofoli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium is characterized by a long persistence, in which can be perceived - evident and clean - tastes of plum, apple and pear, as well as the typical hints of almond. Also the finish of Sartarelli's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Balciana is very persistent with flavors of pear, honey and almond, as well as a pleasing hint of chamomile: a very pleasing and clean finish. The finish of the third wine, Umani Ronchi's Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio, is, just like the previous wines, very persistent, leaving in the mouth long flavors of apple, plum and the unfailing almond. Verdicchio is a grape capable of expressing great potentials in wine making and, thanks to its versatility, it is always successful in surprising tasters with every style, from dry to sweet wines.