Wine is a world in which live different realities, different ways of interpreting the same product seen from distinct points of view. Points of view which also give truly different results, despite all of them can be classified as “wine”. And this also depends, first of all, by the way the interpreter sees his or her wine, and - in particular - by what wants to communicate with this product and what wants in return. These two aspects defines - as a matter of fact - the characteristics of the product as well as the range and the class of consumers to which it is virtually destined. Not all wine lovers - therefore, consumers - are interested to the same type of product. Some see the wine as a simple beverage, others make of it a product for the élite, romantic and snob, for others more it is a product to be safeguarded in its cultural and traditional meaning, a value to be defended at all costs, despite fashions and trends of the time.

 Wine, there is no doubt about it, is a product taking its origin from a land and each land is a world on its own, made of many environmental and social factors, of cultures and traditions which unavoidably affect every single product of each land. Among producers, there are many who believe it is indispensable to listen to the land and to work in order the wines are the most faithful and genuine expression of it, while rejecting every extraneous factor to that land and which could alter - even marginally - the expression of a wine, of a territory. Producers who mainly follow this type of approach generally are the small ones, those who keep themselves away from notoriety, ignoring the comments more or less competent consumers could express about their wines. They generally do not have real commercial interests - although they work in order to get a legitimate and understandable profit - they are mainly interested in making a wine respecting a land, their land.

 This way of making wine, as opposed to what could be believed, does not mean leaving grapes, must and wine to their destiny, while waiting for nature making its course. This simply means getting the most out from the environmental conditions of a place, while ensuring a control over the production in order to avoid any possible degradation or fault. These small producers generally avoid the use of chemical or biological substances and modern technology of any kind, not only because they could affect their productive concept, but also - and maybe, in particular - for the reduced economic possibilities. The ortodox vision of these producers goes beyond the use or the lack of economic resources. Many, for example, avoid the use of selected yeast, which cost is very low, a factor undeniably affecting the character and the expression of the place from which a wine takes its origin.

 Technology and research have certainly been fundamental for the development of wine making, allowing - last but not the least - small wineries to make wines with the least possible quantity of faults. A big opportunity which increased the overall quality of wines in this country. Maybe it was the excessive use of technology made in the last years - which undoubtedly favored the production of many wines, all the like, all the same - which today they are, like to say, looking back to the past. If once were technological wines to mainly catch the attention of consumers, while classifying in a derogatory way as wines of the peasant the ones produced by small wineries strongly tied to their tradition, today we are seeing a sort of return. Among wine lovers there is a sort of “competition” in finding wines produced by small wineries, in search of traditions associated to a territory.

 Also producers today are proud to say they keep themselves away from technology: if in the past saying a wine was fermented or aged in a barrique - the famous Bordelais barrel of 225 liters - gave the right to be part of the group of important producers, today they avoid to disclose this aspect. Today it is a distinctive sign to not using the barrique in favor of the traditional large casks; the ones using the barrique, most of the times, replace the term with “small barrel” or “small wood”, for example. The same happens for selected yeasts, for example. If in the past the use of selected yeast represented the norm - as well as being suggested by any technician - today producers proudly say they ferment their wines with natural yeasts, that is the yeasts naturally found in grape skins and in the atmosphere of a territory. Declaring the use of selected yeast has become - today - a reason for being considered as someone making a non genuine wine in the respect of a territory.

 The use of selected yeast, of course, allows a better stability and control of alcoholic fermentation, but it is also true it is a factor altering the “natural” conditions of a territory, as - during fermentation - they tend to overwhelm the natural population of wild yeasts. In other words, they undeniably affect the expression of a wine in regard to its “natural” interpretation. To say this in French terms, they alter the expression of the terroir of a place. Traditional and small is therefore better? Not always. Or, better to say, it depends on what one wants from a wine. Small producers have the merit of better keeping the typical quality and expression of a territory, while limiting the use of factors which could alter integrity, both for a matter of choice as well as for economic reasons. And to make this - it should be said - not always they are successful in making a quality product. This is also true for big producers as well. It is a matter of choice. A choice any producer can make, small or big, there is no difference. And it is also a matter of priority, that is choosing among economic profits, expression of the territory or to offer a wine meeting the taste of the mass, for example. Long life the good wine, well made and honest - either small or big - and capable of telling the emotions of its territory.

 Aglianico is one of the great enological glories of South Italy. Great red berried grape capable of making great wines, Aglianico is also one of the most famous and important grapes of Italy. This great grape is common in all peninsular regions of Italy - and marginally in some regions of Central Itay and in the islands - however it is in Campania and in Basilicata Aglianico offers its best expression and notoriety. Taurasi in Campania and Vulture in Basilicata are the main areas in which the best Aglianico wines are being produced, known everywhere as an example of enological excellence. The two areas are just 60 kilometers apart, nevertheless their wines express truly different characters. History tells this grape was introduced in Italy by Greeks in the VII century BC, for this reason it was known in ancient times as Ellenico, then changed in the XV century in Aglianico - during the dominion of Aragonese - by adapting the pronounce to the Spanish language.

	Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture of our comparative tasting

 Taurasi is not only a great expression of Aglianico grape in Campania, it is also - undoubtedly - the most famous and representative red wine of the region. Taurasi, a town in province of AVellino, has certainly been the first viticultural area to give notoriety to Aglianico in Italy and in the world; the wines of this area are in fact classified as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita since 1993 (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG). Taurasi has quickly conquered notoriety and became - in a short time - one of the most famous wines and viticultural areas of South Italy. a result obtained, with no doubt, with real facts and with the quality of its wines. Aglianico has certainly played a fundamental role for the success of Taurasi, however - it should be remembered - a wine it is not only the fruit of the grape used for its production, it is the result of a territory and of its characteristics, grape included. Or, better to say, it is the expression of Aglianico in that territory.

 According to the production disciplinary, Taurasi is produced with Aglianico grape, for at least 85% and providing for the possible remaining part of non aromatic grapes permitted for the cultivation in the territory. The use of other varieties is however rare for Taurasi, as most of producers prefer making use of Aglianico only, a variety having a strong bond with this territory. Still according to the production disciplinary, Taurasi must age for at least three years before being commercialized, of which, at least one in wood cask. As for the riserva style, it is required a minimum aging period of four years, of which at least 18 months in wood. Thanks to the quality of Aglianico, Taurasi is a wine capable of aging for many years in bottle, getting with time a rounder and more elegant character.

 The area of Vulture is found in Basilicata and takes its name from the homonymous volcano, inactive today. The composition of the soil is therefore of lavatic nature, a characteristic giving unique qualities to wines, different from - of course - any other place. Aglianico del Vulture is characterized by power and structure. The versatility of this grape has given origin - in this land - to many enological interpretations, from whites to sparkling wines, as well as rich and excellent red wines. Aglianico del Vulture has been recently ranked - the last August 2010 and for the superiore style only - as a wines of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG), the highest level of the quality system in force in Italy. The great red of Basilicata, according to the relative disciplinary, is produced with 100% Aglianico grape and it can be commercialized after at least three years of aging, of which at least 12 months in cask.

 The riserva style requires a period of aging of five years, of which, at least 24 months in cask. In the Vulture area, Aglianico is cultivated in vineyards which can also reach 800 meters of altitude, however it is believed the best cultural and enological conditions are obtained in altitudes from 200 and 600 meters. Wines of Vulture have been mentioned many times in the past, one of the first ones was the Latin poet Horace - who was born in Venosa, still today an important land of Aglianico del Vulture - and, later, both Sante Lancerio and Andrea Bacci will write high praises for this wine. Despite Aglianico del Vulture has recently obtained the DOCG status, its fame and its value are well known to wine lovers since many years, recognizing to the wines of this area very high quality and value. Of robust body and complexity, Aglianico del Vulture was successful in conquering the favor of consumers, proving, glass after glass, its undeniable excellence.

 Our comparative tasting will examine the two main territories in which Aglianico grape is capable of expressing wines of remarkable personality. The first wine of the tasting is Mastroberardino's Taurasi Riserva Centotrenta, produced with 100% Aglianico and aged in cask and in barrique for 18 months and then aged for 18 months in bottle. The second wine we will examine is Cantine del Notaio's Aglianico del Vulture Il Sigillo, aged for 24 months in barrique. As Aglianico is a grape rich in polyphenols, in both cases have been chosen wines longly aged in wood containers in order to compare wines with ripe tannins and complex organoleptic profiles. In both cases, we will choose the vintages currently commercialized by respective producers. The wines will be tasted at the temperature of 18°C (65°F) and served in two ISO tasting glasses.

 Aglianico is a grape rich in polyphenolic substance, characteristic which - of course - strongly affects the appearance in red wines. The intensity and concentration of colors also depends on other cultural and environmental factors. The soil of Taurasi, compared to the one of Vulture, is generally riches in clay - however both being of lavatic nature - and therefore its wines are characterized by more intense and deep colors, whereas the ones of Vulture are characterized by a higher transparency. The soil factor is of course one of the many determining the color of a wine, among them the yield in vineyard: the lower the yield, the higher the concentration of colors. Both Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture are commercialized after a long period of aging, therefore it is quite rare to see in these wines purple red hues. The main colors in these wines are therefore ruby red and garnet red.

 The first wine of which we will examine appearance is Mastroberardino's Taurasi Riserva Centotrenta. By tilting the glass over a white surface - for example, a towel or a sheet of paper - let's observe the wine at the base of the glass, where the wine gets the maximum thickness. We will observe a brilliant and intense ruby red color, with a moderate transparency. Let's now observe the wine towards the opening of the glass, in the point where the thickness of the liquid is at the minimum. Here it can be observed a garnet red color, sign of aging and of time. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Cantine del Notaio's Aglianico del Vulture Il Sigillo. Observed at the base of the glass, in this wine can be appreciated an intense and brilliant ruby red color, also in this case with a moderate transparency, however lower than the previous wine. Nuances of this Aglianico - observed at the edge of the glass - are characterized by an intense ruby red color.

 Wines produced with Aglianico offer to the nose of the taster a very interesting aromatic profile. If we add the excellent longevity in bottle - a factor further enriching Aglianico of tertiary and complex aromas - the olfactory evaluation of these wines offers the taster an extremely interesting exercise. Both Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture offer to the nose a profile mainly made from intense sensations of fruits and flowers, of which the most frequent ones are black cherry, blackberry, plum and violet. Time and aging in cask give Aglianico complex tertiary aromas. Moreover, thanks to its characteristics, Aglianico makes wines of remarkable longevity in bottle, developing aromas of high complexity. Time and aging give Aglianico complex aromas of vanilla, cocoa, tobacco, mace, licorice, leather, chocolate and cinnamon, just to mention the most frequent ones. In these wines can also be perceived fresh and balsamic aromas of menthol.

 Mastroberardino's Taurasi Riserva Centotrenta will be the first wine of which we will evaluate the olfactory profile. By keeping the glass in vertical position and without swirling, let's proceed with the evaluation of opening aromas. From the glass will be appreciated aromas of plum, blackberry, black cherry and violet, typical and identifying qualities of Aglianico grape. Let's now proceed with the swirling of the glass in order to favor the oxygenation of the wine, then let's do the second smell in order to complete the aromatic sequence. It will be now perceived aromas of blueberry as well as more complex aromas of vanilla, cocoa, tobacco, mace, leather, licorice and a balsamic touch of menthol. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Cantine del Notaio's Aglianico del Vulture Il Sigillo. The opening of this wine is characterized - like the previous one - by aromas of plum, blackberry, black cherry and violet. After having swirled the glass, the aromatic profile is completed by blueberry, vanilla, chocolate, cinnamon, mace, tobacco, pink pepper and a pleasing touch of menthol.

 Aglianico is not a grape going unnoticed when its wines are being poured in a glass. This extraordinary grape, not so easy to cultivate and to vinify in cellar, has a pretty rich content in polyphenols as well as a pretty high acidity. With such characteristics, the balance in wines is obtained both by the contribution of alcohol - in these wines being frequently higher than 14% - as well as a proper aging in cask, in order to “smooth” the strong astringency and to mitigate the crispness given by acidity. Both Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture are wines of remarkable structure, with a pretty high alcohol by volume and with a strong astringency, in which acidity, although smoothed by the aging in wood, however plays a determinant role in balance. Correspondence to the nose is generally very good - in the mouth can be perceived clean flavors of black cherry, blackberry and plum - and persistence is very good, frequently with a long duration.

 Let's examine the first wine of our comparative tasting: Mastroberardino's Taurasi Riserva Centotrenta. The attack of this wine - that is the sensations perceived at the first sip - is characterized by the astringent personality of Aglianico as well as a pretty robust structure. Despite the wine has a certain roundness given by the aging in wood, it can however be perceived a good acidity. The balance of the wine is also obtained by alcohol, which is well perceived with its “warm” effect. Let's now pass to Cantine del Notaio's Aglianico del Vulture Il Sigillo. Also in this case the attack is characterized by a remarkable structure, however roundness given by the aging in wood and by alcohol give a good balance to the wine. In both wines can be perceived an excellent correspondence with the flavors of black cherry, blackberry and plum, as well as a long taste-olfactory persistence. Finally, it should be compared the organoleptic sensations in both wines according to the different methods of aging.

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