Piedmont, without a doubt, is among the most important viticultural and enological regions in Italy, certainly among the most significant and important wine regions in the world. There are many reasons for this: not only an interesting ampelographic diversity, but also – and no less importantly – a wealth of wine-producing lands and styles. From northern Piedmont to the southernmost border with Liguria, the region extends across a variety of diverse soil compositions and rich and vast morphology. All this is further enhanced by a remarkably rich selection of grape varieties, specialized, so to speak, in producing the various styles typical of each area. Whites and reds, sweet and sparkling wines, Piedmont offers wine lovers a wide and prestigious selection of wines to pour into their glasses. Of all these, of course, it is the red wines that most and primarily identify this Italian region.

 There will be, in fact, two red wines to be poured into the glasses of the tasting by contrast of this month, produced with different grapes – very different – both nonetheless significant in defining the winemaking identity of Piedmont. Among the red grape varieties of this region, a trio of enormous importance stands out, both in terms of their widespread use and their winemaking applications: Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Dolcetto. Of this important trio, we will leave out Barbera, a celebrated and widespread red grape variety, not only in Piedmont, as a matter of fact one of the most widely planted red grapes in Italy. Nebbiolo and Dolcetto, on the other hand, are concentrated mostly in Piedmont, although they are also grown – especially Nebbiolo – in other regions of Italy and, to a lesser extent, around the world. Of the many wines produced with these grapes, we will pour Dolcetto di Dogliani and Gattinara into our glasses, two stunning representatives not only of their respective grapes but also of Piedmont.

 The panorama of Piedmontese wines produced with Dolcetto is decidedly rich, indeed, very rich. This important red grape variety is included in numerous Piedmontese production disciplinary, many of which are exclusively reserved for wines made with this grape. Among these, Dolcetto di Dogliani – or simply, Dogliani – is undoubtedly among the most famous and appreciated. Recognized for years as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita territory (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) Dolcetto di Dogliani, after being granted DOC status in 1974, reached the pinnacle of Italian winemaking quality in 2005. Added to this is the important modification of 2011 that – as a matter of fact – merged the territories of the Dolcetto delle Langhe Monregalesi and Dolcetto di Dogliani denominations, thus decreeing the suppression of the former and extending the territory of the latter, which has always been recognized as a DOCG. In this regard, it is worth noting that Dogliani, in the Langhe region, in the province of Cuneo, boasts a long-standing connection with the Dolcetto grape, for centuries the chosen variety – along with Barbera – of the wines produced in this area.

 Wine production in Dogliani has historically been documented as far back as the ancient Romans, however it is uncertain whether it was already being produced with Dolcetto grapes. The first reliable evidence of the presence of Dolcetto grape in Dogliani dates back to around the year 1000, with documents attesting to its trade. Dolcetto gradually assumed significant importance for the economy and viticulture of Dogliani, so much so that in 1593 the municipality issued a specific regulation, establishing, in particular, the start date of the harvest as September 21st. A grape that has always dominated the vineyards of the Langhe, along with Barbera and before Nebbiolo, wines made with Dolcetto have always been the primary representatives of local winemaking. The current production disciplinary for Dogliani, in addition to the Superiore style, also allow for the additional mention of “vigna” (vineyard) on the label, followed by the relevant toponym or traditional name. For all styles, the disciplinary provides for the exclusive use of Dolcetto grapes.

 Gattinara is undeniably among the most celebrated wines of Piedmont, originating in the municipality of the same name in the province of Vercelli. A Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita wine (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) Gattinara shares, with many other great wines of the region, the use of the Nebbiolo grape. A renowned and celebrated variety, capable of creating powerful wines with marked elegance, Nebbiolo, combined with the specific characteristics of the Gattinara terroir, lends a refined personality and class. Although the majority of current production is exclusively made with Nebbiolo, the production disciplinary provides for a minimum percentage of this variety – also known locally as “Spanna” – 90%. The remaining and additional quota may include Uva Rara and Vespolina. Furthermore, the production disciplinary also include the Riserva style, which requires a minimum aging period in wood of 36 months, instead of 24. Finally, the disciplinary also allow the mention of “vigna” (vineyard) followed by the relevant toponym or traditional name, claimed as an Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva (Additional Geographic Mention, MGA).

 Nebbiolo, as in the rest of Piedmont, has a long connection with the Gattinara area. The same can be said for viticulture, evidence of which predates the arrival of the ancient Romans. The first records of wine, specifically its commercialization, date back to 1378, attesting to trade and exports, reaching the noble courts of Europe, in particular Spain. This success is primarily due to the Marquis of Gattinara, Cardinal Mercurino Arborio, who – in the early 1500s – used the local wine not only as a valuable trade good, but also as an effective tool for diplomatic relations. Compared to wines produced with Nebbiolo, particularly from the Langhe, those of Gattinara are characterized by greater finesse and elegance, while still maintaining its renowned power in the glass. Gattinara stands out, among Nebbiolo wines and not just those from Piedmont, for its distinct personality and elegance.

The Color of Gattinara

 Before we begin evaluating the wines for our tasting by contrast, we will find the bottles of Dolcetto di Dogliani and Gattinara. These are fairly common wines and are often available in large-scale retail chains. As always, if they prove difficult to find, we can visit a reputable wine shop. Regarding the composition, Dolcetto di Dogliani is produced solely and exclusively with the eponymous grape, while for Gattinara, we will ensure it is made with Nebbiolo, without the presence of other complementary grapes required by its production disciplinary. Regarding winemaking practices, for Dolcetto di Dogliani, we will make sure it is fermented and aged in steel tanks, a very common choice for this wine, but not the only one. Gattinara, on the other hand, requires at least 24 months of aging in cask, so this is clearly a mandatory choice. Both wines belong to the most recent vintage on the market and we will pour them into tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C (64 °F).

 We can now pour the two wines of the tasting by contrast of this month into glasses and proceed with evaluating the appearance of the Dolcetto di Dogliani and Gattinara. We will begin with the Dolcetto di Dogliani, then, tilting its glass over a white surface, we will observe the base to evaluate its color and transparency. Dolcetto is well known for its excellent coloring power, a quality that – evidently – is also confirmed in the Dogliani. Indeed, we observe an intense ruby red color with decidedly reduced transparency. Let's now move on to observe the nuance, towards the opening of the glass, where the wine becomes thinner. Here we detect a purple-red color, confirming both the coloring quality of Dolcetto and its youth. Let's now move on to observing the Gattinara, so we tilt the glass over the white surface. Here we observe an intense and brilliant ruby red color, with a much higher transparency than the Dolcetto di Dogliani. The nuance of Vercelli wine reveals a ruby red color, often tending towards garnet.

 Wines made with Dolcetto and Nebbiolo express decidedly different and distinct aromas. Those in our tasting by contrast are no exception, of course. We should also consider that the aromas of Gattinara are enriched with tertiary aromas, obviously given by cask aging. Dolcetto is recognized on the nose by its intense aromas of dark-fleshed fruits, particularly black cherry, plum, blackberry, and blueberry, often also including red-fleshed fruits such as raspberry and strawberry. Among the floral notes, Dolcetto primarily expresses violet, although there are also subtler hints of geranium and rose, and occasionally even carnation. Another olfactory characteristic that often accompanies Dolcetto wines is the scent of almond. In the olfactory profile of wines made with Nebbiolo, intense aromas of cherry and plum stand out on the nose, always accompanied by floral sensations including violet and rose. Among the aromas identifying Nebbiolo, we also find raspberry, strawberry and blueberry.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and evaluate the olfactory profiles of the two wines, starting – as in the previous phase – with the Dolcetto di Dogliani. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we take the first sniff to appreciate the opening of the wine. On the nose, we recognize – clear and intense – aromas of black cherry, plum, and blackberry, followed by a pleasing violet scent. After swirling the glass – an operation favoring the development of the wine's olfactory qualities – we proceed with the second sniff. The olfactory profile of Dolcetto di Dogliani is completed with blueberry, raspberry, and strawberry, occasionally pomegranate, often followed by the unmistakable almond aroma. Let's now move on to evaluate the olfactory profile of Gattinara and, holding the glass in vertical position without swirling, analyze its opening. On the nose, we perceive intense and clean aromas of cherry, plum, and violet, typical of wines made with Nebbiolo. After swirling the glass and taking a second smell, the aromatic profile of Gattinara is completed with rose, raspberry, and strawberry, along with a long sequence of tertiary sensations imparted by cask aging.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of Dolcetto di Dogliani and Gattinara, starting – as in the previous phases – with the wine made with Docletto. The first quality we examine is the attack, that is, how the wine is perceived in the mouth after the first sip. The pleasing and gentle astringency imparted by the tannins is immediately noticeable, balanced by the alcohol, along with a hint of crispness and roundness. The palate perceives flavors of black cherry, blackberry, and blueberry, along with raspberry and strawberry, sometimes followed by a sensation in which we recognize almond. Dolcetto di Dogliani has a good body and is appreciated for its pleasing immediacy. Let's now move on to evaluating the attack of the Gattinara. The Vercelli wine immediately presents a decidedly more intense sensation of astringency, as is the crisp acidity, which is very noticeable here. These two sensations find a prompt balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol and the moderate roundness conferred by the wood aging, with a decidedly robust yet very elegant body. On the palate, we perceive intense flavors of cherry, plum, and raspberry.

 We now proceed to the final phase of the tasting by contrast of this month, namely, evaluating the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, particularly their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Dolcetto di Dogliani is persistent, leaving pleasing and intense flavors of black cherry, blackberry, plum, and raspberry – as well as the frequent bitter touch of almond – with a sensation of good body and pleasing astringency that combine with an agreeable crispness. The finish of Gattinara is equally persistent, and in this case, the sensation of structure we perceive in the mouth is decidedly more robust, a sensation that is combined with the crispness provided by the acidity, typical of Nebbiolo wines, along with the astringency. The flavors of cherry, plum, and raspberry are perceived – clear and intense – on the palate. Two decidedly different wines, in some respects even opposites, yet elegant and agreeable. Two grapes, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo, which also produce wines with distinct and different characters, not only because of the typical winemaking practices generally used in the production of Dolcetto di Dogliani and Gattinara.