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Wine is a vast, almost endless topic. There are so many things to talk about,
and not just sensorial tasting, even though it has become a boring topic in
recent years – so say the enlightened new prophets of communication – that
keeps wine enthusiasts, old and new, away. There are so many things to talk
about, however – alas – the events surrounding wine in recent years almost
inevitably lead us to turn our attention to commercial and market developments,
to which, given the time of year, we must also look at the forecast and outcome
of the 2026 harvest. A vintage that promises to be indecipherable, at least
according to the statements of producers, agronomists, and enologists. The
sweltering heat of recent months has, in fact, significantly accelerated the
grape ripening cycle, thus forcing early harvests, even into July, and not just
for sparkling wine producers. It must be said that the same situation also
occurred in other wine-growing countries in Europe.
Consumption is declining, export volumes are decreasing, including overall sales,
with the only worrying increase being inventories. With the 2026 harvest now
ended in many areas, winery inventories are evidently and inevitably destined to
rise. This involves, at least initially, grape must, which will increase the
so-called share of new wine still fermenting (Vino Nuovo Ancora in
Fermentazione, VNAIF) however, in a few months, it will become fully-fledged
wine, with the renewed hope of being sold. Just like the current inventories from
previous vintages. The 2026 vintage, as mentioned, has already been defined as
indecipherable, and no one feels it is worth risking making a prediction.
This condition has been met almost unanimously in Europe's top three
wine-producing countries – Italy, France, and Spain – with producers,
agronomists, and enologists remaining tight-lipped about the outcome of the 2026
harvest. These positions are clearly understandable, given the exceptional heat
wave that, compared to previous years, has led to the grapes ripening extremely
early, a condition that has, so to speak, been never seen before and is
therefore difficult to interpret and predict.
Forecasts, or rather, no forecasts aside, according to the Cantina Italia
report, updated to July 31, 2026, wine stocks in Italian wineries amount to 42.6
million hectoliters, an increase of 6.9% compared to the same period in 2025.
Furthermore, 3.1 million hectoliters of must and 42,027 hectoliters of new wine
still in fermentation (Vnaif) are in stock. Compared to the same reference period
in 2025, musts have increased (+31.5%) while new wine still in fermentation has
decreased by -28.5%. Compared to the previous survey – June 30, 2026 – there
have been declines of -8.6% for wines, -17.4% for musts, and -24.4% for
Vnaif. As in the previous reports, the majority of stocks are held in Veneto
wineries, accounting for 55.9%. Regarding the share of wine categories, 55.4%
are DOP (predominantly red, accounting for 53.8%), 25.8% are IGP, varietal
wines account for 1.7%, and other wines account for 17.1%.
As has been recorded for several years now, Prosecco DOC holds the record among
the denominations, with a whopping 3.2 million hectoliters, equal to 9.4% of the
entire country. Apulia and Tuscany IGP follow with 1.5 million hectoliters, equal
to 4.4%, then Chianti DOCG with 1.2 million, equivalent to 3.6%. Furthermore,
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC with 1.13 million hectoliters – 3.3% – followed by
Terre Siciliane IGP with 1.1 million, 3.2%, Sicilia DOC with 1.11 million,
3.2%, Salento IGP with 1 million, 3.1%, and finally Delle Venezie DOC with
963,000 hectoliters, 2.9%. These values, as already mentioned, are destined to
rise with the 2026 harvest, which, although initially limited to the share of
musts and new wines still in fermentation, will inevitably see the already high
share of wines rise in the coming months. New inventories will inevitably – and
I would add, truly hope so – need to be successfully reduced through the
natural process of production, that is, sales. An undertaking that, at
least for now, seems decidedly complex and fraught with uncertainty.
Starting with exports – a key component of the Italian and European wine
market – which saw another decline in the first four months of 2026. According
to results released by the Italian Wine Union (Unione Italiana Vini) – based on
ISTAT data, the National Institute of Statistics – Italian wine exports fell
6.8% in value, equal to 2.34 billion euros. Volumes, of course, also declined
3.7%, to 641 million liters. This decline was seen both in the non-European
market, down 8.7%, and in the European market, down 3.9%. In this context, for
the first time in 10 months, the United States of America – following the
well-known trade disputes – showed a tentative sign of recovery, with a 1.6%
increase in April alone, but a 15.4% decline in the four-month period. Germany
and the United Kingdom – primary importers of Italian wine – also recorded
declines of 6.8% and 6.1%, respectively. Furthermore, Canada remained stable,
while Switzerland closed the first four months with a 12.7% decline.
Things seem to be going better in some emerging markets, such as Brazil, where
growth was +17.8% (corresponding to +36.4% for the entire Mercosur area),
China, with +9.7%, and Russia, +28%. The Italian Wine Union also released
updated data for May and, unfortunately, the final figures for the first five
months of the year for so-called third-party countries show a decline of -7.5%
in value and -3.9% in volume. In May alone, the United States of America
recorded a 15% decline in value, with a corresponding 10% loss in the average
price for 2026. In this regard, the president of the Italian Wine Union, Lamberto
Frescobaldi, observes that «the increased presence in emerging and outlet
markets, in addition to the reduction in production, are the two contextual
directions that Italian wine must pursue. The current situation requires us to
recognize that we are going through a phase in which it is not only necessary to
further promote our wine, but also to recognize that large quantities released on
the market do not help to enhance its value. We must aim for a balance between
supply and demand that allows us to sustain the value of Italian wine, protecting
business income and the competitiveness of the sector».
The market situation, of course, is not unique to Italy: France and Spain are
also not providing encouraging data. One might say misery loves company, but
in reality, it is simply misery. To this, as already mentioned, is added the
uncertainty surrounding the 2026 harvest, for which none of the trade
associations have commented on the forecast. The uncertainty surrounding the
season, which is decidedly critical in all three countries, understandably
requires caution, postponing any estimates until the end of the harvest, when the
grapes are harvested and the winemaking process has begun, thus allowing for a
definitive final outcome. The few who have made any predictions, note the good
quality of the grapes and, given the scorching summer weather conditions, the
obvious and nonexistent risk of downy mildew. Another sign detected in Europe's
major wine-producing countries – reiterated and confirmed – is the widespread
decline in domestic consumption, with decidedly not optimistic forecasts. In
my usual, incurable optimism, I still want to imagine that – sooner or later –
wine will overcome this evident challenging moment. Perhaps by toasting renewed
success with the 2026 vintage wines, which, in a few months, we will begin
pouring into our glasses. Despite the lack of estimates and forecasts, they will
certainly be capable of thrilling us. As always.
Antonello Biancalana
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