2026 Harvest: Initial Assessment

 Given the usual progression of the seasons, the scorching summer of 2026 has now come to an end. Hot, muggy, and more unbearable than ever, it was a season that saw our blameless thermometers hit unthinkable peaks and register alarming figures. Experts and meteorologists from various quarters report that the summer we have just left behind was, in fact, the hottest in decades, shattering records – so to speak – that had stood for over 70 years. Clearly, we all noticed it. So did anxious winemakers and, no less so, the poor vines, severely stressed by a lack of water and temperatures beyond description. It was a situation that – as we well recall – necessitated understandable caution when forecasting this year's harvest, with the only certainty being its remarkably early timing. A fact that was, of course, confirmed everywhere. Furthermore, meteorological experts have already warned that we will look back on the summer of 2026 with nostalgia, since – they say – future summers will be even hotter. Frankly, I find it hard to imagine a summer more scorching than the one that has just ended.

 Regarding the news of 2026 harvest – though hardly “news”, given that it was widely anticipated and entirely predictable – the grapes were picked significantly earlier than usual this year. It must be said, however, that being forced to bring the harvest forward – especially amidst extreme heat and the resulting water stress – is no simple task. The primary goal is to preserve the precious acidity – essential for many wines – along with key aromatic qualities. In other words, the aim is to bring grapes into the winery with the best possible balance of all their components, before the ripening process irreparably compromises them. The only consolation is that the grapes are, in all likelihood, sound and free from defects caused by humidity or low temperatures. It may sound simple, but in reality, this is a critical strategic decision for achieving the best possible outcome from the work of a full year.

 Indeed, such a dramatic early start had never been seen before. In many parts of Italy – particularly for sparkling wines – the harvest actually was completed before the end of July. It was by no means a simple task, however, as high temperatures forced producers to harvest the grapes during the coolest hours of the day – early morning – and to cool the clusters before pressing. Producers across Italy are reporting a harvest that is two weeks ahead of schedule. Furthermore, the “new” climatic conditions of the country are prompting producers to seriously rethink their viticultural and vine-training techniques, as well as the grape varieties grown in their vineyards. Current feedback from producers suggests an “epochal” shift – or a renewal, if you prefer – extending from the vineyard all the way to sales; the latter sector is being severely hampered by market issues that have, unfortunately, been plaguing the industry globally for months.

 One might assume that the significantly early grape harvest was a phenomenon affecting primarily southern European regions – such as Italy – but in reality, the need to harvest grapes much earlier than usual extended to France as well. This affected not only the country's southernmost areas but even cooler regions like Burgundy and, nevertheless, Champagne. In many vineyards across these areas, the harvest concluded before mid-August. Just as in Italy, France has also been giving serious thought to vineyard management for future vintages, given the magnitude of these changes. Gone are the days when the harvest was primarily an autumn activity, often taking place well into the season, even as late as October. Back then, merely moving the harvest up to September was considered a highly unusual anomaly. Today, however, many would likely wish they could harvest during that month. Time inevitably passes and changes things and, it seems, the climate and seasons are no exception.

 So, what are the grapes from the 2026 harvest like? Based on reports from winegrowers who have finished harvesting, the grapes are generally healthy but have ripened very rapidly due to high temperatures; consequently, they have above-average sugar levels, likely lower aromatic potential, and acidity level which is not exactly optimal. Simply put, this means that appropriate adjustments will need to be made during winemaking to produce balanced wines. In this regard, it must be stated – or rather, emphasized – that these are entirely legitimate and legal adjustments, permitted under current regulations. Before anyone cries foul, it is also worth noting that these are perfectly legal winemaking practices that – for better or worse – are commonly carried out in wineries every year. Overall, the quality is considered high and very good, even though yields are significantly lower than average.

 Given the current stocks in Italian wineries – which are notoriously excessive – the news that the 2026 harvest will yield a smaller volume is, in my view, the lesser of two evils. Indeed, stocks will inevitably rise next spring, and we will likely still be pointing out the excessive volume of wine sitting in wineries, all while hoping it gets sold or otherwise moved into the market. It is true that we are finally seeing tentative signs of market recovery – though not for everyone – however these remain too slight to yield significant results. Clearly, a tentative sign of recovery is better than a negative one, especially considering the news that has overshadowed the wine sector's fortunes for far too long. Beyond the usual – and utterly insufferable – remedy prescribed for wine communication, producers and consortia are instead questioning the need for significant, drastic changes. They have likely realized, unlike others, that mere talk – even when “dressed up for the occasion” – or simply “changing the tune” will not get the wine that far.

 Let's be honest and call a spade a spade: consumer habits and preferences regarding wine have changed. In my view, this is the result of the ferocious smear campaigns waged against wine in recent years, not to mention the emergence of new trends. Of course, everyone is free to follow whatever trend they like and to eat or drink whatever suits them best, far be it from me to say otherwise. For instance, the current prevailing demand for wines with lower – or virtually zero – alcohol content, driven largely by the fad for so-called “dealcoholized wines”, clashes sharply with the reality of climate change. Rising temperatures – which are expected to climb further in the years ahead – not only force earlier harvests but also significantly increase sugar levels in the grapes. In winemaking terms, this inevitably translates into higher alcohol content in the finished wine. Admittedly, one can work “miracles” in the winery – up to a certain point – such as using yeasts that produce less alcohol or simply resorting to dealcoholization.

 Meanwhile, consortia and producers – beyond highlighting serious economic challenges, such as production costs and the need to ensure a fair income for those working in vineyards and wineries – are beginning to consider the need for change to better navigate inevitable future shifts. Discussions are underway regarding the revision of disciplinary specifications, including the potential use of PIWI varieties and the need for periodic adjustments based on climatic and production conditions. A significant example of this is the situation in Champagne: following the conditions of the brutal summer of 2026, and for the first time in the appellation's history, wines will be permitted to exceed 13% alcohol by volume, up to the European limit of 15%. Unfortunately, exceptional times call for appropriate – even unimaginable – measures; this is likely a path that will have to be followed in the future. When viewing the wine sector as a whole – from vineyard to glass – this appears to be an unavoidable necessity and, perhaps, the lesser of two evils.