In virtually every wine-producing country in the world, there are regions that – from an enological perspective – are defined by a specific grape or wine. While many of these areas produce other wines or styles as well, they remain inextricably linked to one particular wine that serves as their signature. This is the case for the two regions featured in the comparative tasting of this month: one is closely tied to a single grape variety, while the other relies on a blend of grapes to make the white wine that best characterizes the area. The first is Lugana, a wine whose identity is tied exclusively to the Turbiana grape, a variety identical to Trebbiano di Soave and also known locally as Trebbiano di Lugana. The second territory defines its flagship wine – a white – through the Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano grape varieties. These two areas are geographically far apart: the first belongs to Lombardy and Veneto, while the second is located in Puglia.

 In both cases, these are wines boasting a long history and a deep connection to their respective territories; however, it is only relatively recently that they have become known to enthusiasts and – today – easily recognizable within the Italian wine landscape. Specifically, we will be tasting the Superiore styles, thus – in accordance with the designations characterizing Italian wines – these are, compared to the “standard” style, distinguished by a higher alcohol content. From both an enological and organoleptic perspective, this characteristic necessitates sensorial elements capable of balancing the heightened sensation of alcoholic warmth. Generally speaking, Superiore styles are also distinguished by greater structure and body, qualities that are, of course, not solely dependent on the alcohol content of wines.

 Spanning a very long area, Apulia boasts an impressively diverse range of wines and grape varieties. Indeed, the region encompasses numerous distinct wine-growing territories, each characterized by specific styles and grapes, the latter very often being indigenous varieties. While Apulia is celebrated for its extensive production of rosés, its vast territory also yields excellent red wines, sparkling wines, passito (made from sweet dried-grape), and, of course, whites. One such white wine defines the Locorotondo Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) area, named after the town of the same name in the province of Bari. This appellation is closely linked to the Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano white grape varieties, both indigenous to Apulia. Although other grapes are grown in the area, these two are the most representative ones. In fact, while the production disciplinary permit the use of other grapes authorized for cultivation in the region, the variety that features most prominently in the blend is Minutolo, known locally as Fiano.

 In addition to the famous white wine, the Locorotondo production disciplinary also provides for single-varietal wines – specifically Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, and Fiano (Minutolo) – with the variety stated on the label. Regarding the white wine, the disciplinary also include Superiore – which we are examining in our tasting – and Riserva styles. Furthermore, the Locorotondo DOC disciplinary allow for spumante and Passito styles, utilizing the same blend defined for the standard white wine. Consequently, the composition of Locorotondo Bianco consists of at least 50% Verdeca and a minimum of 35% Bianco d'Alessano, with any remaining portion made up of other white grape varieties native to and authorized for cultivation in Apulia. In this regard, it should be noted – as previously mentioned – that the most commonly used complementary variety is Minutolo. The Superiore style is distinguished by a higher alcohol content, which must be at least 11%, compared to 9.50% for the standard style. Additionally, the yield per hectare is set at 10 tonnes for the Superiore and 13 for the standard version.

 Lugana white wines have undeniably been at the heart of one of Italy?s many winemaking success stories for years. The result of significant efforts to define its territorial identity and quality, Lugana is now one of Italy?s best-known white wines. The production area – recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) – stretches across the southern shores of Lake Garda, spanning the provinces of Brescia, in Lombardy, and Verona, in Veneto. A wine with a long history – featuring in notable records dating back over five centuries – this celebrated white takes its name from the village of the same name within the municipality of Sirmione, in the province of Brescia. The key grape variety here is Turbiana, a local name, alongside Trebbiano di Lugana, for the Trebbiano di Soave variety, which is the star of the white wines produced just a few dozen kilometers to the east, in the province of Verona.

 In addition to the Turbiana grape, another defining characteristic of this wine is the soil composition. The territory extends across the plain south of Lake Garda, with its outer reaches rising toward the hills. However, it is the wines produced on the plains near Lake Garda that define the distinctive identity of Lugana wines, which often have a characteristic minerality. The production disciplinary covers not only the celebrated white wine but also Superiore, Riserva, late-harvest, and sparkling styles. In our tasting, we examine the Superiore style, which has an alcohol content of 12%, compared to the 11% required for the standard style. Although Turbiana is usually the sole grape variety used in these wines, the disciplinary provides for a minimum of 90% Turbiana, with the remaining portion potentially made up of other white grape varieties authorized for cultivation in the provinces of Brescia and Verona.

The color of Lugana Superiore

 Before starting the comparative tasting of this month, we need to purchase the two bottles we will be pouring into our glasses. Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore are relatively easy to find, even in major retail chains. As always, should sourcing them prove difficult, a good wine shop will certainly be able to meet our needs. As for Locorotondo Superiore, we will select a bottle made from the typical blend – Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, and a small amount of Minutolo – that has been fermented and aged in inert containers, preferably stainless steel tanks. We will also pay attention to the composition of the Lugana Superiore, ensuring it is produced exclusively from the Turbiana grape. Regarding fermentation and aging, we will again choose a bottle produced entirely in inert containers, such as stainless steel tanks. For both wines, we will select bottles from the most recent vintage and pour them into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 We can now pour Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore into their respective tasting glasses and begin evaluating the two wines, starting with the one from Apulia. As usual, the first quality we examine is appearance, that is, how the wine presents itself in terms of color and clarity. We tilt Locorotondo Superiore glass over a white surface and observe the base. The color revealed in the Apulian wine is a brilliant straw yellow, and its transparency – assessed by placing an object between the glass and the white surface – is very high. We then observe Locorotondo Superiore near the rim of the glass, where the liquid is thinner, and evaluate the nuance, which appears greenish-yellow. Next, we move on to evaluating the appearance of Lugana Superiore, therefore we tilt its glass over the white surface and, here too, observe a brilliant straw yellow color and very high transparency. Furthermore, the nuance is similar to that of the Apulian white: greenish-yellow.

 The olfactory profiles of Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore have distinct characteristics, despite sharing certain qualities. One interesting aspect of this tasting by contrast lies in the composition of the two wines: Locorotondo Superiore is a blend of multiple varieties, whereas Lugana Superiore is a single-varietal wine. When Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, and Minutolo blend together and make Locorotondo Superiore, the nose reveals aromas of pear, apple, and peach, often followed by citrus notes, in particular, lemon. Floral aromas in Locorotondo Superiore are primarily characterized by broom and hawthorn. Lugana Superiore is distinguished on the nose by aromas of apple, pear, and plum, often accompanied by notes of peach, pineapple, and almond, whereas floral elements are evident in the scents of hawthorn and broom.

 We resume our tasting by contrast and evaluate the olfactory profiles of Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore, starting – as in the previous stage – with the wine from Apulia. Holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling it, we take the first smell to appreciate the opening notes of the wine. From the glass, we perceive intense and pleasing aromas of pear, apple, broom, and hawthorn. We then swirl the glass – an operation encouraging the release of further aromatic qualities – and take a second smell. The profile of Locorotondo Superiore is completed with aromas of peach, pineapple, plum, and chamomile, often accompanied by citrus sensations, in particular, lemon. We now move on to evaluate the opening aromas of Lugana Superiore and, by holding the glass in vertical position, we take the first smell. We detect intense and pleasing aromas of apple, pear, plum, and hawthorn. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of Lugana Superiore is completed with aromas of broom, peach, pineapple, and citrus sensations reminiscent of citron, alongside the unmistakable scent of almond.

 Let us now turn to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the wines in our comparative tasting, beginning – as in the previous stages – with Locorotondo Superiore. We take a sip of the Apulian wine and assess its attack, the initial sensations perceived in the mouth upon the first sip. Locorotondo Superiore is notable for the pleasing crispness imparted by its acidity, a quality that finds immediate balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol. It also has good body, although not an overpowering one, a characteristic that highlights the finesse of the wine and its flavors of apple, pear, plum, and peach. We now move on to evaluate the opening of Lugana Superiore and take our first sip. This wine is distinguished by its pleasing crispness, more intense than that of Locorotondo Superiore, yet also well-balanced by the alcohol. On the palate, it is perceived a good structure alongside flavors of apple, pear, and plum, as well as a distinctive almond note.

 We have reached the end of the comparative tasting, so we can now evaluate the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, specifically, their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Locorotondo Superiore is persistent, leaving a sensation of characteristic finesse and immediacy, along with flavors of apple, pear, plum, and peach, thereby confirming – even at this final stage of the tasting – a strong correspondence with the aromas perceived on the nose. The finish of Lugana Superiore is also persistent, leaving a sensation of crispness derived from its acidity – which is more intense than that of the Apulian wine – yet well-balanced by the characteristic finesse of this white wine. On the palate, are still perceived intense and clean flavors of apple, pear, and plum, alongside a hint of almond – which tends toward a bitter note – among the sensorial qualities that distinguish Lugana Superiore.