Friuli-Venezia Giulia is, without a shadow of a doubt, one of Italy's wine-producing regions capable of expressing a vast and varied enological richness, a quality it has successfully proven for a very long time. Although primarily associated with white wines, the vineyards of Friuli-Venezia Giulia are, in reality, also rich in red, or, more precisely, deep crimson hues, thanks to the significant presence of red grape varieties. The region's production is not limited to just whites and reds; its production of sparkling wines and sweet wines made from dried grapes is also of undeniable importance. The viticultural landscape encompasses both indigenous and international varieties, all of which lend themselves to truly remarkable enological expressions. Among these, Schioppettino stands out as an indigenous variety of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, distinguished by its distinct character and personality, it is the variety we explore in the tasting by contrast of this month.

 To stand alongside the Schioppettino from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, into the second glass of the tasting we pour a red wine from Molise, specifically, the most celebrated red of the region. The viticultural landscape of Molise differs significantly from that of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Winemaking in Molise focuses primarily on “national” grape varieties, alongside the local star, Tintilia, an indigenous variety of great enological interest. International grape varieties are quite rare in this region; consequently, most wines, both white and red, are made from varieties typical of Central and Southern Italy. This is, in fact, how it is made Biferno Rosso, an interesting blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico grapes, a unique case within the Italian wine denominations. The result is a wine with a distinct personality and character, a worthy representative of the winemaking tradition of Molise, and, not by chance, the first wine from the region to cross its borders and gain recognition among enthusiasts.

 Schioppettino is a truly special grape variety. Long overlooked outside of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, it has gradually earned a prominent place in the region's winemaking tradition. It is a variety with a long history and a long-standing reputation, it was even served at the tables of the local nobility as far back as the Middle Ages. Native to the area around Udine, Schioppettino is now one of the flagship varieties of the Friuli Colli Orientali Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) region, where it has rightfully secured a position of distinction. The name “Schioppettino” likely derives from the fact that its “crisp” berries, when crushed, burst with a characteristic popping sound. The variety is also found in neighboring Slovenia, where it is known as Pokalca, Pokalza, or Poçalza, particularly in the Primorska coastal region. Another theory regarding the origin of the name relates to the perceived “exuberance” of its wines: as spring arrives and temperatures rise, the wines, once bottled, may undergo malolactic fermentation, causing the internal pressure to build until the cork “explodes” out of the bottle.

 Schioppettino is primarily found within the Friuli Colli Orientali denomination in the province of Udine, as well as in the neighboring Friuli Isonzo denomination in the province of Gorizia. Notably, the Friuli Colli Orientali denomination includes a sub-zone specifically dedicated to Schioppettino in the hills around the municipality of Prepotto, an area considered the grape's place of origin, where the variety expresses itself with particular finesse and distinct character. Wines made from Schioppettino – also locally known as Ribolla Nera – are recognizable by their exuberant notes of red and black-fleshed fruits, alongside a characteristic black pepper aroma that develops over time. While Schioppettino generally yields direct and immediate wines, many producers also age them in wood – using both large casks and barriques – to create wines of significant depth, demonstrating the variety's excellent enological versatility and compelling sensorial complexity.

 From an enological perspective, Molise is undoubtedly one of Italy's hidden gems. Wine has a long and significant history in this land, a fact known as far back as the time of the ancient Greeks and even noted – with high praise – by Pliny the Elder. Today, the scene of winemaking in Molise is primarily defined and recognized for its wines made from Tintilia, an indigenous grape variety that has – especially in recent years – received a major boost and significant attention from the region's producers. In previous decades, Molise also gained widespread appreciation among wine enthusiasts for one of its red wines, which hails from what is arguably the region's most recognizable Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (DOC): Biferno. While this important denomination also provides for white and rosé wines, it is the red that remains the primary hallmark of the denomination to this day. It is a truly unique case, as the wine is made from a blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico, varieties that are, in many other contexts, typically vinified on their own.

 The Denominazione d'Origine Controllata Biferno takes its name from the river of the same name, which flows through the province of Campobasso. It was the first denomination to be recognized in the Molise region, followed shortly thereafter by Pentro d'Isernia DOC, and for many years, these were the only two denominations in the region. Biferno Rosso is a wine with a distinct personality and character. It is produced using Montepulciano and Aglianico, red grape varieties of primary importance within the Italian wine landscape, which lend this wine a highly recognizable profile. In this regard, it should be noted that the production disciplinary for Biferno Rosso provides for the use of 70-80% Montepulciano and 10-20% Aglianico, with the remainder potentially consisting of other red grape varieties permitted in the Molise region. Furthermore, most producers use exclusively Montepulciano and Aglianico in the proportions established by the disciplinary, opting not to include any other grape varieties. Finally, the red wine may also be produced in Superiore and Riserva styles.

The color of Biferno Rosso

 Before beginning the tasting by contrast of this month, we must source the two bottles to be poured into our glasses. These are rather distinctive wines, the Biferno Rosso, in particular, is not always easy to find in mainstream retail outlets, although – as usual – a well-stocked wine shop will certainly be able to help us in our search. It should also be noted that most producers of these wines opt for cask aging; therefore, for both Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino and Biferno Rosso, we will ensure that they have been aged in large casks, therefore avoiding, if possible, those aged in barrique. Regarding the composition of the wines, we will ensure that the Friulian wine is made exclusively from the Schioppettino grape – the production disciplinary allow in fact for up to 15% of other varieties – while the Biferno Rosso must be made from Montepulciano and Aglianico only. As for the vintage, we will select bottles from the most recent harvest available. The wines will be poured into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C. (65 °F)

 We can begin our comparative tasting of Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino and Biferno Rosso by examining their appearance, specifically, how they present themselves to the eye in terms of color and transparency. We start with the wine from Friuli: by tilting the glass over a white surface, we can assess its color. Looking at the base of the glass, Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino displays an intense, brilliant ruby-red hue with limited transparency. Shifting our focus toward the rim of the glass, where the thickness of wine is thinnest, we can observe its nuance, which manifests as a ruby-red color leaning toward garnet. We then turn to Biferno Rosso; again, we tilt the glass over a white surface to evaluate its color. Here, too, we see an intense, brilliant ruby-red hue with limited transparency. Observing the wine at the rim of the glass, we can discern a ruby-red nuance that tends toward garnet.

 The olfactory profiles of Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino and Biferno Rosso differ substantially. This is partly due to the production methods employed for each wine: the former is a single-varietal wine, while the latter is a blend of two grape varieties. In the first wine, the olfactory profile is defined solely by the Schioppettino grape; in the second, the dominance of Montepulciano is modulated by the influence of Aglianico, which, according to the production regulations, may account for between 10% and 20% of the blend. Furthermore, in the specific case of these wines, we must also consider the contribution of oak aging to both their olfactory and gustatory profiles. Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino is primarily characterized on the nose by aromas of red-fleshed fruits, such as cherry and raspberry, as well as blueberry and plum. Biferno Rosso, by contrast, predominantly expresses aromas associated with dark-fleshed fruits, such as black cherry, blueberry, and blackberry, along with plum.

 Let's resume our tasting by evaluating the olfactory profiles of Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino and Biferno Rosso. As in the previous stage, we begin with the wine from Friuli; by keeping the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we assess its initial bouquet. Upon the first sniff, the Schioppettino reveals itself through intense aromas of cherry, raspberry, and plum, underscored by the floral scent of violets. We then swirl the glass – an action encouraging the release of further aromatic sensations – and take a second sniff. Notes of fruit, specifically blueberry and blackberry, emerge, occasionally accompanied by hints of rose and the characteristic aroma of black pepper. Next, we evaluate the initial bouquet of Biferno Rosso; by keeping the glass in vertical position, we take our first sniff. Aromas of black cherry, plum, and blueberry become apparent, along with the unmistakable scent of violets. After swirling the glass, the profile of this wine from Molise is further enriched by notes of blackberry, often accompanied by hints of carnation and cyclamen. In both wines can be discerned the influence of oak aging, most notably through the characteristic presence of vanilla notes.

 We now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the wines in our tasting by contrast. As in the previous stage, the first wine we examine is Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino. We take an initial sip to assess its attack, that is the immediate, defining sensations perceived on the palate. This Friulian wine is notable for its well-balanced astringency, supported by a pleasing crispness that is promptly balanced by the effect of the alcohol. Notes of cherry, raspberry, and plum emerge, alongside a solid sense of structure, not overwhelming, but possessing a distinct, immediate character and a strong personality. The attack of Biferno Rosso also features a well-balanced astringency, balanced by the alcohol; however, compared to the Friulian wine, it has a less pronounced crispness and a greater degree of roundness. On the palate, can be detected flavors of black cherry, plum, blueberry, and blackberry.

 We have reached the final stage of the tasting by contrast of this month, therefore we will evaluate the final sensations that each wine leaves on the palate after swallowing. The primary quality assessed in this phase is the taste-olfactory persistence, that is, the duration for which the organoleptic sensations remain perceptible in the mouth. The finish of the Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino is persistent, leaving in the mouth notes of cherry, raspberry, blueberry, and plum for several seconds, often accompanied by a pleasing, subtle bitterness characteristic of wines made from the Schioppettino grape. The finish of the Biferno Rosso is also persistent, with distinct flavors of black cherry, plum, blueberry, and blackberry, alongside a greater sensation of roundness compared to the Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino. Before concluding the tasting of this month, we will perform one final olfactory examination of the glasses, first the Friuli Colli Orientali Schioppettino, then the Biferno Rosso. Evaluate, for both wines, the influence of oak aging on their respective aromatic profiles.