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I return to the subject of the 2026 harvest, partly because this year was, to an
unusual degree, far from simple from an agronomic and viticultural standpoint,
and partly because the final figures are now clear, providing a comprehensive and
definitive picture. Furthermore, the data offer interesting points for
reflection, not only regarding 2026 but also for future vintages. The first
observation concerns the perennial competition – a contest that has become
increasingly unexciting, if it ever was compelling to begin with and certainly
not for me – over which wine-producing nations claim the top spot in terms of
total volume. Despite a challenging year marked by extreme weather conditions
– including soaring temperatures and critically low water availability in the
vineyards – Italy has once again secured the highest step on the podium for
2026. While this outcome might spark joy and jubilation for some, for others
– maybe – it may not necessarily be such good news.
Recent estimates indicate that Italy has produced 41.1 million hectoliters of
wine, a decline of 7.4% compared to 2025, something which was widely
anticipated. We are a long way from the days when the production of Italy was
significantly higher, yet the country remains a key player in the ongoing rivalry
with France and Spain, its two main competitors for the prestigious title
of top wine producer. It is worth noting that while France and Spain have, for
some years now, significantly curtailed their production, Italy continues to
outperform both, maintaining a substantial lead. For comparison, wine production
estimates for 2026 stand at 33.9- -34.9 million hectoliters for France and
34- -37.6 million for Spain. While exceptional weather conditions have clearly
contributed to this decline in all three nations, the trend has been consistent
over the last three years. For instance, France produced 46 million hectoliters
in 2022 and 48 million in 2023, compared to just 36.1 million in 2024.
It is worth recalling that, in recent years, France has seen a series of events
and measures specifically aimed at reducing annual wine production. These painful
steps – indeed, extremely painful – have included the uprooting of vineyards,
in some cases quite drastically. This French strategy seeks to align wine
production with current trends and, above all, with recent sales figures,
particularly for red wines, which have been hit hardest by the decline in demand,
including within the domestic market. Furthermore, this move is explicitly
attributed to ongoing climate and market shifts, for which France sees no
improvement in the near future. The primary victims have been vineyards destined
to mass-market wines, a segment that nonetheless represents a vital component of
the annual balance sheet. However, this is a calculated sacrifice, intended
in part to enhance the quality of the remaining vineyards and thereby foster
growth in niche markets. As a result of this strategy, Spain overtook
France in 2026, becoming the second-largest European producer in terms of volume.
What about Italy? While other wine-producing countries around the world are
grappling with new climatic and global market challenges – in some cases
significantly reducing their production – Italy has proven to be the country
most reluctant to these shifts over the last 20 years. This is a decidedly
critical situation, especially when it is considered – nevertheless – the
current and substantial volume of wine sitting in Italian wineries, now
compounded by the 2026 harvest. The latest Cantina Italia report,
released on September 30th, indicates a 14% increase compared to the previous
survey, with PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) wines accounting for the bulk
of this figure. Naturally, this rise is partly due to the 2026 harvest, which
took place unusually early and has inevitably had a significant impact on the
data. In any case, the report notes that as of September 30, 2026, there were
41.2 million hectoliters of wine in storage in Italian wineries, an increase of
14.2% compared to the figures recorded during the same period in 2025.
As is to be expected during the grape harvest season, the volumes for musts have
risen-up 50.5% equal to 12.8 million hectoliters, along with those for new wines
still undergoing fermentation, which have increased by 92.8%, equal to 8.8
million hectoliters. A heartening figure – though perhaps not one viewed as such
by everyone – is the projected decrease in wine volume for 2026, which, as
previously mentioned, shows a 7.4% decline compared to 2025. Regarding wine
stocks, PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) wines account for the largest
share, 56.8%, or 23.3 million hectoliters, representing a 12.8% increase over
2025. This growth amounts to 2.5 million hectoliters, consisting of 10.4 million
hectoliters of white wine (+23.7%), 12.1 million of red (+5.4%), and 0.7
million of rosé (+3%). The share of IGP (Protected Geographical Indication)
wines is more modest, showing a 15.6% increase to 10.3 million hectoliters,
comprising 5.8 million hectoliters of red and 4 million of white. Another
significant increase is seen in table wines, which have risen by 16.6% equal to
6.6 million hectoliters.
If there is one thing that is declining, aside from the harvest projections for
2026, it is the average price of Italian wines, partly as a result of inflation.
This is unwelcome news, especially for producers, who now face this challenge on
top of existing difficulties in the export market. This assessment comes from the
Unione Italiana Vini (UIV, Italian Wine Union), which notes a widespread
drop in the retail value of wine and warns of a potential systemic crisis.
Provisional inflation data released by ISTAT (the National Institute of
Statistics) show a 0.7% increase in consumer prices compared to the previous
month, and a 4.2% rise relative to September 2025. This is largely driven by
higher energy and raw material costs within the food sector. Such increases,
however, are not being seen in the wine category, which has been experiencing a
steady decline in value for months. Preliminary estimates indicate a 0.3% drop
compared to August 2026, and a 2.3% decrease relative to September 2025.
A significant factor is clearly the widespread decline in consumption, a trend
that has remained in negative territory for several years, driven by more than
just market-related reasons. Grape prices also appear to be falling: initial
estimates suggest a further decrease compared to the 2025 average. While awaiting
confirmation, this represents yet another critical challenge for the wine supply
chain, particularly for winegrowers who sell the grapes from their own vineyards.
Lower revenues, combined with cultivation costs that weigh heavily on margins,
inevitably result in reduced profits. In short, viticulture is becoming
increasingly less profitable for those who grow the grapes. It is truly difficult
to make predictions about the future of wine. Given the broad decline in
consumption, a market that has yet to show any truly encouraging signs, and
existing winery stocks that only complicate matters further, everything points to
2027 being much like 2026. Of course, it is true that sometimes it takes very
little to turn a difficult situation around: never say never. Nevertheless, the
horizon currently remains rather bleak; while we wait for it to clear, we look
forward with confidence to the emotions that the 2026 harvest will bring. And all
this, despite the many detractors of wine who, it seems, are quite a lot in these
days. Raise your glasses!
Antonello Biancalana
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