Italy is usually considered as one of the main countries which traditionally
produces wine and was - and still is - an important country in the history of
wine making. There are few countries in the world having an enological history
as rich as the one of Italy. Despite the origin of wine making in Italy is
usually dated back to ancient Greeks times, vine was already present in the
country long before their arrival and the ancient local people - in particular
Etruscans - were already involved in the production of this beverage. In more
than 2000 years of history the number of wines produced in Italy has been
pretty high and quality faced moments of absolute prestige - as mentioned by
many authors in their writings during the Roman age - as well as moments of
absolute decay.
In this long period, time has been witness of the birth - and unfortunately of
the disappearing - of many renowned wines which made important the areas where
they were produced at. Many of these wines uniquely continue to live in the
pages of the ancient documents where they were usually praised and esteemed,
consigning them to the memory of time and being cause of curiosity among the
ones who only heard talking about them. Many others are still produced today,
even though with proper modern adaptations, and are still famed and
appreciated. Other wines are instead facing the risk of disappearing no matter
few and determined producers, to whom go our appreciation and esteem, continue
to keep the historical wines of their lands and of their ancient traditions
alive.
How comes some glorious wines of the past and that are still produced do not
meet the appreciation and interest of consumers? Maybe taste has changed and
therefore some wines having an ancient taste are not capable of meeting the
canons of modern taste? Of course commercial and promotional factors
indisputably play their fundamental role. Maybe it is because these wines
having an ancient taste, complicated, rich and certainly not immediate, require
lots of attention in order to be appreciated and therefore a modern wine,
although produced by using disputable methods and made of the right
ingredients, is more easily appreciable and direct? Maybe these wines require a
higher sensorial effort and therefore, because of laziness and homologation of
habits, are considered less interesting and more difficult and hence less
attractive?
Let's consider, for example, two magnificent wines produced in Sicily and in
Sardinia - Marsala and Vernaccia di Oristano - how many wine consumers,
honestly, continue to appreciate them, or however had the opportunity and
curiosity to taste them at least one time? Nevertheless Marsala has been in the
past the only wine capable of being comparable with Port, Madeira and Jerez
(Sherry), three wines which made the economic fortune of many merchants of the
past and the happiness of countless wine lovers. What about Vernaccia di
Oristano? Maybe few people know it is one of the most longeval wines, not only
of Italy but also of the world. It can even age for more than 20 years
developing complexity and extraordinary richness in aromas and taste like few
other wines can afford. Of course, these two wines are not the only ones that
could be mentioned - the list could go on with tens of names - however they
make a good example of magnificent wines which truly risk to disappear because
of the lack of interest.
Many producers had to change their production in order to avoid bankruptcy,
many of them have quit producing these wines while starting the production of
more modern and commercial wines. Their choice is clearly understandable:
according to a plain economic point of view it is not wise to make something
which does not make any profit, however from a cultural point of view it is a
loss for everyone. Of course we have nothing against the wines which are famous
- how could we deny the greatness of many of them - anyway as the production
and the spreading of modern wines are promoted, likewise it should be done
the very same for the spreading of these lesser wines - we hope their
producers do not take offense for having used this adjective - and we cannot
accept them to disappear from our history and our glasses.
It should be admitted, without offense to anyone, these ancient wines are
not wines for everyone, they do not have the readiness of many modern wines
which can be drunk without any formality and easiness. If we consider again,
for example, Marsala and Vernaccia di Oristano, they are not wines that can be
drunk thoughtlessly and in a hurry, they are wines which require attention,
which require taking a break and with tranquility appreciating and
understanding the endless symphony of aromas and tastes originating from the
glass. This is a principle, unfortunately, which does not meet the frenetic
absurdity of the time we all forced ourselves to in order to live in this
modern society rich of paradoxes and of which we all are responsible of. Maybe
we have no time, or probably we do not want to have time, to consider and think
of those things that could make our life happier and less complicated.
It is certainly easier to be attracted by the charm of the explicit and of
all at once, thoughtlessly and without responsibility, where pressure and
hurry do not allow us to notice important things which are neglected just
because they asked a little more time and attention. Maybe these wines are
victims of this system, too much complicated in order to be understood and too
distant from our habits and our times. Nevertheless the richness of a Marsala
Vergine and the complexity of a Vernaccia di Oristano, aged for more than ten
years, a remarkable time for a white wine, repay all the attention and time
dedicated to their appreciation. It is sad to see there are few people out
there who are capable of appreciating these kind of wines, who know them and
continue to look for them and to support them. To all of them who have never
had the pleasure - as well as the privilege - of tasting these kind of wines,
we invite them to try this genuine and amazing sensorial experience and we are
sure of the fact they will not be disappointed. Finally, wine is culture and
its culture is indisputably made of those truly great wines, often forgotten,
which allowed enology, not only the Italian one, to walk a successful long way.
Let's not forget this.
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