Summertime is now over leaving the memory of the many torrid days and few rainy
days, at least here in Italy. After two not truly amazing years, according to an
enological point of view, as it was already predicted and as it was confirmed by
glasses, it seems this year will finally be a good one and that meteorological
conditions have been such to expect a good harvesting and vintage 2004 in Italy.
By the time you are reading these words, most of the wineries will be done
harvesting grapes in their vineyards. The result of the harvest will already be
in the cellars in order to begin the tumultuous journey that from
fermentation leads to the creation of wine: a miracle which is always enchanting
and that every year promises new emotions, good ones and bad ones.
Comments that experts of the field told about vintage 2004 seems to be
encouraging and promising, so good that many of them said 2004 will be as good
as 2001, indisputably one of the best in recent years. Moreover, many have said
that 2004 will be even comparable to the almost legendary 1997, that in many
areas of Italy was capable of giving wine of excellent quality. Premises and
comparisons apart, one thing we can be relatively certain about vintage 2004 is
that it will be better than 2003 and 2002, two vintages that will not certainly
be remembered for the quality of their wines, with our respect for the hard
works of those who every year make wine and believe in their land. After all the
good part of wine is also that: every year there is a new match and only at the
end you know about the result, which is always different and always new,
luckily.
In Italy the 2002 was certainly not excellent, things got better in 2003,
however both years - talking in general terms, of course - have not been that
good and they will probably not be the ones we will remember with pleasure in
future. Of course, not all the wine produced in 2002 and in 2003 is to be
forgotten or underrated. If we consider things according to a more specific
point of view, in which we do not consider the uneven law of generalization and
we examine the results of regions, or even better small areas, it is possible to
find some good bottles in these two vintages. In other words, for every vintage
it is always appropriate to consider each area and each producer. They can be
expressed general judgments representing the result of each vintage, but this
could be unjust for those areas in which mother nature was not cruel and
malevolent like in others. Generalization can always make innocent victims or
can emphasize something which had no particular merits.
This is the case of 1997 in which many have speculated on the extraordinary
results of many areas and producers, indeed it is commonly known that whether in
certain areas the results have been excellent, in others have simply been good
or very good, however not excellent. Still today it is enough to say a wine is
vintage 1997 and it is considered exceptional, even without considering other
parameters or factors: it is 1997, it must be exceptional anyway. The same is
true, in the opposite, for vintage 2002 and - in a lesser extent - for 2003.
Wines belonging to these two vintages are considered inferior without even
pouring them in a glass. Indeed we known, just because we poured these wines in
our glasses, there was something good to be saved, both in 2002 and in 2003.
Indisputably, with wines of vintage 2001 it is easier to find a higher quantity
of good bottles.
We should probably need to learn to listen more what a wine can tell from the
glass - just like we should do in relationships with people - with no
prejudices. We have to learn to express our judgment only after we completely
know a wine, after having tasted it and allowed it to tell us its story. Of
course there will be wines capable of telling more enchanting and exciting
stories than others, this does not mean however other stories are not worth
listening or not important. Moreover, whoever consider himself or herself a real
wine lover or wine taster, knows the educational and cultural value of tasting
average quality wines belonging to different vintages. Only this let us to
appreciate and recognize the best things from the bad ones. After all it can be
recognized only what is already known, they can be evaluated only things that
can be compared one each other: a process which is possible only by knowing
different things, those things - as a matter of fact - which represent the
reference parameters for every taster.
As for 2004, let's take all the prediction as a good wish in the hope they will
be confirmed with results. In case it will be like this, this is for sure, the
first ones to be happy for will certainly be wine lovers who - with not doubt -
will share their joy with wine producers. For the moment we have to trustfully
wait - like always - the ones who every year harvest the fruit of their
vineyards and make it into wine: we know they will be capable of making the very
best they can with what nature gives them. Of course, sometimes in the cellar
can be made real miracles and from low quality grapes they can make unhoped
results, not certainly extraordinary but however acceptable. It seems this year
things will totally go different from the past years and - at least in the
premises - we should have very good wines from every region of Italy and that
will make us forget about the recent vintages and remember the very good vintage
2001. We just have to wait… while crossing our fingers.
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