The question can sound silly and maybe it is silly indeed: whoever could answer
- with no hesitation - to a simple question like that. And with even less
hesitation would answer all the supporters of the beverage of Bacchus. Despite
the apparent simplicity of a question like that, we believe the answer is not so
easy, it is likely this is a question requiring many answers and not simple
ones. Wine is a beverage, this is something we all probably agree on. However it
is not a beverage like many: wine has played a cultural, traditional and, very
often, ritual roles in the societies where it has been produced and is still
produced today. Undoubtedly, wine is also a popular beverage, an indispensable
support to the life of countryside people and of the areas committed to
agriculture, in those places where wine has always been produced and it
represented more than a simple beverage, even considered a food.
Today the image of wine has radically changed, it probably had never got so much
attention in the course of its history like the one it is getting in
these times. Wine is discussed everywhere, among friends, in the press,
television, radio, advertising: wine is everywhere. Not only wine is widely
discussed: it frequently becomes a subject for the elite, one of those
subjects giving people a more intelligent and refined dignity. Maybe
they talked about wine too much, maybe in an inadequate way as well, most of the
times using a language which made people staying away from wine instead of
catching their attention. Certain terms and certain forms of language have
indisputably contributed to make people believe wine is something
complicated, something which cannot be understood, and sometimes - by
reading some notes and some remarks - it seems they are talking about everything
but wine. Ridiculous terms have only confused consumers, most of the
times making them laugh.
The reason of this interest is certainly associated to cultural and traditional
factors, as well as passion, but it is indisputable one of the main factors
responsible of such an interest is of economic nature. It would be silly to deny
this: in the world of wine there are colossal economic interests - connected
both to the production and the image as well - and it is therefore good this
interest to stay alive. Whether there is an interest for wine, of course, it is
something every supporter of the beverage of Bacchus wishes, however, when this
interest becomes, like to say, spoiled, then the thing may also become
disturbing. Experts of any sort - or presumed ones - make use of a showing off
of knowledge, made of improbable and ridiculous words which make people staying
away from wine instead of catching their interest. Nevertheless, wine, in its
indisputable complexity, has the main quality of simplicity of immediateness and
does not have any pretension but to give an emotion or to satisfy a need,
according to one's point of view or to what one looks for in a wine.
In this sense, it is almost impossible to resist to the temptation of mentioning
the very funny sommelier character invented by the good comical actor Antonio
Albanese: an intelligent caricature in which can be easily recognized the
ridiculous behaviors of many experts. In this sense, Antonio Albanese
has hit the target, although by making use of the licit exaggeration theater
allows when it is needed to emphasize certain behaviors in order to make them
ridiculous. Of course, we are not criticizing the professionalism and importance
of sommeliers: their job, in case it is done with discretion, competence and,
above all, savoir-faire, is certainly important for the spreading and
knowledge of wine. It is however indisputable some behaviors make the people
staying away from wine who, at the moment of choosing a wine, being afraid of
making the wrong choice or to look like an inexpert, they avoid it and choose
other simple beverages which do not need any complexity.
What is therefore a wine? A beverage having its roots in tradition and culture,
simple and immediate, or a beverage which must be complicated no matter what and
distant from people? Maybe it is because it is needed complicated words in
order to define a wine, to make use of ridiculous behaviors and to show off
knowledge, that a wine is often considered complicated? Wine certainly is
a complex beverage, but in its complexity, it can also be extremely simple:
depends on what one looks for in a wine. One thing is however certain: as long
as they will make of wine a complex beverage, according to a cultural and
informative point of view, people will believe they are not capable of
understanding it and they will therefore keep wine at a certain distance,
something which distinguishes the ones who can appreciate it - but not the ones
who abuse of it - and which cannot be understood.
This does not however mean wine must be considered trivial or banal: the effect
would be even worse, while increasing - maybe - the custom of making of it an
excessive and deprecable use. However, also making of wine a beverage for the
elite, complicated no matter what, it is not the best thing to do. Wine
is a cultural and traditional heritage of the places where it has always been
present in the life of people and, as such, must be heritage of everyone, not
only of those who want to make wine into something different and that with wine
has nothing in common. Words are important, they have the primary function of
allowing everyone to understand a concept, not to make it incomprehensible. In
case something is incomprehensible, therefore it is also useless: no one knows
what to do with something he or she does not understand or does not know how to
use it. He or she may probably pretend to understand it or to use it, and, of
course, this is not the same thing and it is not useful to the spreading of wine
culture. Because wine is culture, because wine is simply wine.
|