There are bad news for rose wine lovers, as well as for everyone who however
appreciates fine wines. Rose wines, as it is widely known, are not liked by most
of consumers, for many this style of wine would not even be worth of being
called wine, guilty of not being neither white nor red. Nevertheless, the
choice of fine rose wines is today vast, examples of high quality which color of
pink the glass and please the nose with fine aromas, just like the other two
white and red colleagues. To tell the truth, there also are many rose wines
which are not so good, but this, after all, can also be said for white wines
and red wines. If to the weak reputation of rose wines is also added the
legalization of wine making practices of disputable quality, things can only get
worse. If today the appreciation of rose wines is pretty modest, the new laws
which are about to be discussed in the European Community could represent the
end of rose wines.
With the new laws which are about to be discussed, the European Commission
confirms its aversion against quality, promulgating pretty disputable laws
for the safeguarding and promotion of fine wines. After having promoted the use
of wood chips in wine, dealcoholization, chaptalization and production of fruit
wines, now the European Commission is focusing on the demolition of rose wines.
It is very likely from August on, it will be possible - and legal - to make rose
wines by blending white wines and red wines together, a practice which can be
cause of frauds detrimental to quality. This practice, which in Europe is
currently forbidden for all table wines, was only permitted in the production of
certain rose sparkling wines, such as Champagne and Franciacorta. In rose table
wines, the production is currently made in two specific methods, and however by
making use of red berried grapes only.
The first, and the most frequent one, provides for a short maceration of the
must with the skins of grapes, whereas the second method is called
bleeding, consisting in drawing off a part of the must in a red wine -
which is fermenting with skins of grapes - after few hours from crushing. The
practice of bleeding is generally used for increasing the structure of
certain red wines, therefore fermenting the fraction of the must, which is
scarcely colored, and then obtaining a rose wine. The possibility of producing
rose wines by blending red and white wines, represents a serious menace to the
quality of wine and a new law detrimental to the dignity of consumers. The
decision, according to some, would be useful for supporting the economy of wine,
therefore allowing the production of rose wines at competitive prices in order
to support the competition with producers of other countries, in particular in
those countries where rose wines are pretty appreciated, such as China.
Only France and Italy are contrary to this decision, however - despite the
protests of these two important wine countries - it is very likely from August
1st it will be possible to make in Europe rose table wines obtained from the
blending of whites and reds. In order to support the safeguarding of quality in
rose wines, France has proposed the indication in label traditional rose
wine reserved only to wines produced with red berried grapes and with
traditional methods. This condition, which could seem to end the debates
arose in this case, has the unforgivable fault of not being mandatory, as well
as it will not be mandatory to state in the label it is a blended rose wine. In
other words, consumers will never be sure about the real quality of the rose
wine they are about to buy: the doubt it is an ignoble fake rose will
always be high.
As these indications will not be mandatory, in European countries where the
culture of quality rose wines is associated to territory - such as France and
Italy - they will be strongly interested in distinguishing the two productions,
whereas in other countries, in order to have better chances in competition
obtained from confusion and scarce information, they will not write anything in
labels. Are we really sure this law will be useful in supporting the economy of
rose wines? A rose wine obtained by blending whites and reds of disputable
quality, will ever make a quality wine? Why do we talk about disputable
quality? Do you think producers and countries interested on the benefits of
this law, will make use of quality white and red wines to produce their rose
wines by using this method? As white and red wines are appreciated and have a
higher dignity than rose wines, in case producers have quality wines belonging
to these two styles, who would ever blend them in order to make a quality rose
wine? No one, of course: producers who decide to make a quality rose wine, make
it by using quality methods and criteria.
The new law of the European Commission, the way it is, seems to be an attempt to
support producers of low quality wines, who can sell their products by taking
advantage of the new interest - although modest - consumers are having for rose
wines. If it is true rose wines are getting more and more attention among wine
lovers, this is the result of a hard work done on quality, by making people
change its mind with facts, also to the ones who believed rose wines to be
non wines. This job, which needs many other supporting initiatives, will
certainly be vanished by laws like this, as it will permit the production of
disputable quality wines. Producers who believe in quality, will certainly not
make use of this disputable method. By considering the recent laws promulgated
by the European Commission about wine, it seems the esteem the politician of the
Old Continent have for wine is very low. Indeed, it seems they are trying
everything in order to support the worst example of quality wines produced in
our continent. By seeing the recent Communitarian laws about this matter, we may
say they are absolutely successful in doing this. Congratulations!
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