Competition, related to marketing, therefore money, it is a very interesting
subject to whoever running a business. In times of economic crisis, such as
those we are living in these years, despite characterized by modest signals of
reprise, competition becomes pretty cut-throat: every mean and every strategy is
being used in order to stay ahead of others. Communication, in order to achieve
this result, is fundamental for sure. To have others know about the existence of
a business, with a clear goal of getting a dominant position in that context,
frequently makes a difference. A difference which, we should not forget this,
must necessarily be supported by facts. Real and concrete facts, not just
supposed or faked ones. It is said advertising is the soul of trading, however,
popular wisdom reminds us that lying will get you nowhere.
In times of crisis, the old saying mors tua, vita mea (your death, my
life) seems to be quite common. A lifestyle not agreed by everyone: in times
of crisis there also are those who prefer to adopt the wiser saying united
we stand, divided we fall. A noble intent, although its efficiency and strength
frequently obey to the safeguarding of a specific and common interest, even
economic one. As it is commonly known, common interests are supported as long as
they support personal interests. For example, we are ready to support the
interests of Italy as long as they support the interests of our regions, the
interests of our regions as long as they support the interests of our cities,
and so on, as long as they support our personal interests. It certainly is a bit
rude to say that, but interests are supported as long as they give us an income,
not so noble to say and in other words, it frequently is a matter of
opportunism.
We are all ready to fight for the Italian wine, no matter what it is, when we
have to contrast the wine from other countries, likewise we are ready to support
the wine of our regions when we need to compare it with the wine of other
regions, our lands opposed to the others. In other words, it is always wise not
to ask the innkeeper about his wine: he will always say it is the best around.
Maybe it is because of the crisis, as well as for the will of floating and
surviving in the ocean of wine, that in recent years we have seen a boom, with
no apparent control, of appellations of any kind, DOC and DOCG. Assigned and
recognized to every place, they all suddenly realized they made the best nectars
of the country, paladins of ancient traditions, not even to mention, better than
all the other ones. Moreover, traditions forgotten for decades, indeed, denied
and forgotten on purpose in favor of the new, are being resurrected for
supporting the renewed attachment to one's own land.
Is there a better occasion to honor these ancient traditions than a sumptuous
Denominazione d'Origine Controllata and, even better, Garantita?
(Italian for Appellation of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, the highest
level). By listening to the promoters of the many appellations, old and new,
with no distinction, their territory is the depositary of very ancient traditions
and cultures (and, in regard of this, there is no doubt) but in case we are
going to read disciplinary and take a walk in vineyards, we see Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in full bloom. We were talking about
tradition, weren't we? If we consider these varieties, it is quite normal to
have doubts about the will to keep alive the traditions of those places.
Moreover, when you point out those varieties have nothing in common neither with
the territory nor the place, the answer is always the same: «they are varieties
used to improve our traditional grapes». It may sound rude to say that, but it
is like admitting those traditional grapes are not suited for making a good wine
or, maybe, no one has been successful in understanding how to make a good wine
from them.
In these cases it is better to follow the easiest way, that is the one giving
the best results in commercial terms. If people like roundness and immediacy of
Merlot, therefore Merlot becomes, like a magic, the grape of that territory. I
guess it is pretty clear I do not give a high reputation to appellations, in
particular when they are created - and badly - with evident speculative goals.
Quality is not something you get by law, and appellations, it is commonly known,
are issued by laws. No law can ensure quality when the ones who have to follow
that law have no presupposition or culture to make quality. It is like to say no
law ensures the existence of honest people: they are useful to limit - and,
rightly, to punish - the behaviors of non honest people. Honest people do not
need laws to remind them to be so: honesty is part of their morality and
lifestyle. The same is true for quality. If a producer believes in quality and
in the respect for his vineyard and territory, he does not need any law to
remind him about it. He does that because he believes on that, because he
already knows it is the right thing to do.
The race for appellations, to have a territory awarded by the official
recognition of an appellation, therefore used as a mean for promoting both the
name and the wine, does not make much sense. It is real quality, the one you put
inside a bottle, to make a difference, not the fact it is a DOC or DOCG wine.
Personally speaking, I rely on producers and on their talent - proven with time
and, in particular, by the glass - to determine my appreciation. In particular,
I find it even less interesting an appellation which does not have any interest
in relying on its territory and its varieties, with the only and evident goal of
the speculation by producing wines with no identity and with no character, wines
similar to other thousands ones. And you know, the recognition of an appellation
is also the result of political mediation, to prove the power of politicians of
a specific territory. Something that with quality, real quality, has nothing in
common. A territory does not need politicians and a speculative logic to prove
its talent. The only thing you need to do is to listen to it and to treat it
with honesty and respect. And to do so, it takes a great performer, just like a
great conductor for a symphony. It's quite different from appellations.
Antonello Biancalana
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