On November 4th, Giacomo Tachis turned 80. A life dedicated to study and wine,
the great Piedmontese wine maker has marked - more than every one else - the
renaissance of Italian wine and its success all over the world. Giacomo Tachis,
after a long and extraordinary career of wine maker, in 2010 retired from the
world of wine or, better to say, to the active scene of vineyard and wineries.
He however plays a role of absolute and indisputable importance, nevertheless,
for the huge heritage and the immense wine making wealth that, with his talent,
has given to Italy. I am not afraid of being denied: if today Italian wine has
reached the highest successes in the world, this is because - undoubtedly - of
the work of Giacomo Tachis and his wines that, being the first ones in this,
have been capable of competing with the best wines in the world. A competition
and a comparison that, most of the times, has seen his wines as strong and
indisputable winners and, with them, Italy as well.
Giacomo Tachis has turned 80 and, in this occasion, I am very glad to
personally wish him happy birthday, while admitting in the past I frequently
thought about writing a report about this magnificent protagonist of the
Italian wine. Unfortunately, I never had the chance to personally meet Giacomo
Tachis, but I however always had appreciated his wines which I had so many
occasion to taste and appreciate. Listing the wines born from the genius and
the deep knowledge of Giacomo Tachis would certainly be repetitive, sons so
renowned in Italy and in the world everyone knows about. A worldwide success
which brought Italian enology to the Olympus of Bacchus, rediscovering and
reevaluating many autochthonous varieties of Italy, also with the help of some
international grapes. Not so bad, for someone who has always been jokingly
defined himself a wine blender, despite his remarkable knowledge, culture
and competence everyone recognize to him.
A man ahead of his time at least of twenty years, Giacomo Tachis had the
willingness and the right vision of what would have become Italian wine in the
following years: his influence is still strong nowadays. The great Piedmontese
wine maker has in fact contributed to the development of Italian wine, also by
reevaluating many Italian varieties which were, before of his work, almost
abandoned and underrated. Carignano and Nero d'Avola are just two of the many
examples which can be provided and, in these two specific cases, have also
marked the strong development of enology in Sardinia and Sicily. Tuscany too is
a region owing Giacomo Tachis a good part of its present splendor and success.
Here he has been capable of exalting the remarkable potentials of the
territory, by creating wines that - still toady - are indisputable
representatives of Italian wines in the world. Likewise, in the Marches he has
been successful in blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to the local
Montepulciano.
The history of Giacomo Tachis is amazing and fascinating, rich of successes
that, undoubtedly, were not achieved by chance or because of a benevolent fate.
A man of deep viticultural and wine making knowledge, Giacomo Tachis is also a
remarkable scholar and has a deep knowledge about the history of wine and of
the Italian territory. A fascinating account of his life and of his
extraordinary career of wine maker and man of wine, can be read on his
autobiography Sapere di Vino (Knowledge of Wine) - in Italian language -
a book I suggest everyone to read. This book is rich in information and wine
making philosophy, it also offers a significant vision of the history of
Italian wine in the last fifty years. Here, Giacomo Tachis writes about his
collaboration with the great French wine maker Émyle Peynaud, one of the
indisputable fathers of modern wine making, a role - with no doubt - also
represented by Giacomo Tachis as well.
Graduated in 1954 at the famous Scuola Enologica di Alba (Enology School
of Alba), Giacomo Tachis is one of the few figures who witnessed the rebirth
and the relaunch of Italian wine, not only as spectator, but, first of
all, as an indisputable and fundamental main actor. In 1961 the fundamental
step which will begin his extraordinary career and, with that, the beginning of
the modern history of Italian wine. Everything begins in Tuscany, the region
where Giacomo Tachis understood Italian wine was certainly capable of changing
its status of mediocrity and to challenge the world. Challenging the world and
win. This how it was and the results arrived very soon: in just ten years, the
great Piedmontese wine maker gave life to prestigious and refined wines, in
particular, of great quality. A worldwide success, wines defined as Super
Tuscans by the foreign press, as they were so different and distant from what
Tuscany used to make at those times.
This could also be, maybe, because of what the market was asking at those times
- different wines from what was produced in Italy in that period - Giacomo
Tachis has however been successful in his intent: to show it was possible to
make quality wine. He was the first to prove it was possible, it was possible
to make something unique and great with what the Italian territory could offer.
As simple as listening, understanding and knowing, using science and technology
in a wise and conscious way, without denying the dignity and character of
grapes and territories. Giacomo Tachis has started a change which can be
considered a revolution, while radically and strongly transforming the Italian
wine. Tachis is a man of remarkable enterprises, with a strong interest for
history and archeology, such as in the case of the very rare wine Mothya,
produced in the tiny Phoenician island Mozia, in Sicily. Here, together with
Carlo Casavecchia - a wine maker author of great wines and who contributed to
the rebirth of Marsala, born in Piedmont and who worked for many years with
Giacomo Tachis - with the grapes of a tiny vineyard of the island made a
masterpiece of absolute historical and wine making value. Eighty years, of
which fifty dedicated to wine and to the pleasure of us wine lovers. Thank you
Maestro Giacomo Tachis, thank you for what you taught us and for all the
emotions you poured into our glasses. Happy birthday, Maestro!
Antonello Biancalana
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