These are difficult times for wine. The crisis caused by the Covid-19 pandemic
seems to be not enough, now there is also the suspicion wine can be harmful to
your health and even in a very serious way. Nevertheless, in Italy we have
always been used to hearing that wine makes good blood and may have
positive effects on health. For years, we have continuously heard authoritative
figures of the world of medicine and science asserting wine can also have
positive effects on people's health. Let's be clear: the abuse of wine
consumption – and this has always been known by everyone – is certainly not
healthy at all, after all, even the excessive consumption of the
harmless water has consequences on health, so researchers tell us, as it
may cause a kind of addiction. Of course, the consequences are very different
and with a very different impact, perhaps the healthy and wise principle of
common sense is always very useful, also by remembering that, as
Paracelsus notoriously suggested, it is the dose that makes the poison.
In the past few weeks, the world of wine has been alarmed in consequence of
a plan proposed by the European Commission called Europe's Beating Cancer
Plan and which will be promoted – it seems – in the course of 2021 with the
HealthyLifestyle4All campaign. This document has caused some concern
in the world of wine – Italian, in particular – assuming that, in the
measures proposed by the document, wine was also implicitly affected. This
plan, in fact, explicitly refers to the need of contrasting the excessive
consumption of alcohol, considered one of the causes that could favor the
development of this pathology. The plan also explicitly refers to
alcoholic beverages – and wine is, undeniably, an alcoholic beverage –
however without mentioning the word wine at all. The plan, due to these
references, was however enough to alarm the world of wine.
Let's make a necessary premise: any campaign in favor of disease prevention
– any disease – can only be welcomed favorably, since the health of
individuals – and therefore of the entire community, in this case the European
Union – is an essential condition for the well-being of all. Including the
productive, economic and social ones. That alcohol, or rather alcohol abuse, is
one of the causes that could favor the development of serious diseases, and not
only cancer, is something that everyone has known for a very long time. The
same is also known for tobacco and for a long list of substances, also intended
for human and animal nutrition. The prevention plan proposed by the European
Commission, in fact, also takes into consideration these substances, therefore
not only alcohol and, in this regard, the plan particularly suggests the
reduction of the harmful consumption of alcohol aiming to a relative
reduction of at least 10% of the harmful use of alcohol by 2025.
Among the measures proposed in this plan, There is also the obligation to write
in the label of alcoholic beverages the list of ingredients and the nutritional
declaration by 2022 in addition to the health warnings to be written by 2023.
In other words, the label should inform consumers on the possible risks
deriving from the consumption of alcoholic beverages, exactly as it is already
reported, for example, in the packs of cigarettes and tobacco. This last part
has caused a certain alarm in the world of wine, that is the possibility of
indicating the composition on the label in addition to the warnings relating to
health risks, well known for years to all consumers of cigarette packs. In
short, the fear of seeing warnings such as it is harmful to your health
written in wine bottles could be likely to happen in case this plan is
approved. Likewise, this could also be true for any alcoholic beverage, as in
this plan are generically mentioned all these types of products.
Following the complaints of producers and trade associations related to wine,
the vice president of the European Commission Margaritis Schinas pointed out
that `«certainly the European Union will not ban wine, and we will not label
wine as being something that is toxic as it is part of who we are and of our
way of life». This declaration was then followed by the words of the
Commissioner for health Stella Kyriakides, confirming that «the European
Commission will propose mandatory labeling of ingredients and nutrient content,
along with health warnings on alcoholic beverages. Initiatives that will be
based on the experiences already made in order to give consumers more
possibilities to choose with greater awareness». Having said this, and assuming
that words are followed by concrete and coherent facts, these are positions
that can be supported. In case, indeed, there is a risk, it is always better to
be informed in advance and then, if necessary, make a choice with the awareness
of the possible consequences. Regardless of whether it is wine or not.
In my opinion, the goal of this plan in contrasting the abuse of alcoholic
beverages must necessarily be considered, especially in the younger population
and which, obviously, is decidedly more fragile in regard of these issues. The
plan, in fact, explicitly refers to alcoholic beverages, so it is not
exclusively about wine but all of them in a general sense. The abuse of
alcoholic beverages – whether it is wine or not – is certainly something that
must be contrasted, especially in cultural term, particularly in the younger
population. I think we all agree that drinking a glass of wine is not exactly
like drinking an equal amount – so to speak – of brandy or any other spirit.
With this, of course, I have no intention of denigrating either brandy or
spirits in a general sense, as they are types of alcoholic beverages I
appreciate, support and consume. But, of course, as Paracelsus said it is the
dose that makes the poison and we know very well that, technically speaking,
ethyl alcohol is a toxic substance. Of course, if consumed in large quantities
and by abusing of it. It is the dose that makes the poison, in fact.
I don't deny it: the idea of seeing warnings in wine labels such as it
seriously harms your health is something disturbing me as it would be like
arguing that our millenary culture – which has undeniably developed also on
viticulture, production and consumption of wine – is, in some respects,
equally harmful to health. In particular for the fact I believe I know the
value of wine, and not only in cultural and identity terms, not only for Italy
but for many other European countries, and the value, including the economic
one, it represents for all of us. And it is because I know the value of wine
and alcoholic beverages, I believe it is equally right to support and
encourage conscious consumption without excessive abuse because this, not
least, undermines the dignity and meaning of wine and its culture. Therefore,
any plan aimed at preventing the abuse of alcoholic beverages are welcome, for
which the effectiveness of the results – I have always been convinced of
this – is fundamentally based on culture and the education of awareness to
responsible drinking. And as I usually end the episodes of DiWineTaste
podcast, also in this occasion, I am wishing you all to have good wine, in
moderation, provided it is always a quality wine.
Antonello Biancalana
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