There doesn't seem to be a moment of rest and peace for wine. Apparently, the
complicated period we are all experiencing – especially production activities,
including those about wine – was not enough and legislators are trying to
modify, not least, overturn, the concept and original definition of wine. The
legislators of the European Union, in fact, seem to be particularly interested
in the wine production sector, specifically, in the effects that this has, or
could have, on health. It is news these days – and that has created quite a
reaction from both producers and consumers – regarding the proposal of
allowing the practice of dealcoholization of wine, that is, to lower its
alcohol by volume. The practice of wine dealcoholization – that is, removing
part of the alcohol produced by fermentation – is already allowed in other
countries of the world and the result has already been available for years in
those markets and, apparently, with a quite good response from consumers.
The spreading of this news – needless to say – caused an ocean wave of words,
all to point out indignation at the alleged production of watered-down
wine. I want to clearly say the possibility of allowing the production of
dealcoholised wine is not something that personally excites me, the thing that
baffles me is the reaction this news has caused, underlining – at least – the
lack of competence with which the fuss has risen. It must be said, in fact,
that dealcoholization is not carried out by adding water – indeed, water is
not used at all in this process – rather it is obtained mainly by reverse
osmosis or evaporation by creating a vacuum. Therefore, dilution with water
– the much evoked and horrifying watering down of wine – has nothing to do
with the dealcoholization process. These are techniques used for decades for
the removal of alcohol from liquids, some of them patented even over a century
ago.
The dealcoholization of wine, however, is a practice allowed in many countries
of the world and – it seems – there is an important market made up of
consumers who, for many reasons, do not want to drink alcohol. It should be
noted, for example, the practice of dealcoholization is a consolidated
practice, for years now, used for beer and it has become, over time, an
accepted product even at a mass cultural level. In Italy, as well as in
France, the possibility of dealcoholised wine production is seen as
outrageous because of the millenary winemaking tradition that undeniably
characterizes the two countries. Many have welcomed this news with the deepest
indignation, a direct attack, not only to the immutable winemaking tradition
and, you know, in Italy when you touch the tradition are unleashed the
bloodiest wars under the banner of everything is immutable, nothing must
change, although everything changes, it has already changed and inevitably
changes.
Many argue, in fact, the introduction on the market of this so-called
dealcoholised wine, could cause an economic loss to the wine market, the
one having alcohol, the real one, indisputably, undeniably, immutably and
without a doubt the only one having the full right to be called wine.
I do not believe, frankly speaking, dealcoholised wine can affect the sales of
the real wine. Those who do not drink wine because of the fact it contains
alcohol – regardless of the reason they do not want or cannot drink alcohol –
do not buy or drink wine already. In my opinion, dealcoholised wine – just
like non-alcoholic beer – would satisfy a market different from that of
real wine, made up of consumers who, in any case, would not buy wine. Likewise,
wine consumers – of the real and authentic one – would not be interested in
dealcoholised wine as well. They are two different products with different
markets and consumers.
I'm speaking, of course, according to my personal point of view. I, without a
shadow of a doubt, would not be interested in the consumption of dealcoholised
wine exactly like I have never bought non-alcoholic beer in my life. And if the
possibility of producing and marketing dealcoholised wine is to be confirmed, I
would undoubtedly be among those not interested in this product, therefore, I
would not buy it. That said, it would seem that my interest in wine depends
exclusively on the presence of alcohol and that – for me – wine means
consuming alcohol. Of course, I strongly reject this supposition because it is
not like this in any way and, personally speaking, I neither agree nor commit
the abuse of alcohol, a deplorable and reprehensible habit which does not
belong to me and which certainly does not distinguish those who love wine.
Those who drink wine because they are interested in alcohol, do not obviously
pay attention to its quality – a wine is as good as another, as long as there
is alcohol, the more it has, the better – something I would not do because, to
me, quality in wine is everything. Quality is what primarily defines a wine and
its pleasure. And wine is not only alcohol, although it is also and obviously
alcohol.
If we then consider the sensorial aspect of wine, alcohol is a fundamental and
indispensable element, it is very important for the gustatory balance, taste
and, no less important, for the perception and development of aromas. Of
course, it can also become a negative sensorial element when it is present in
high quantities and, in that case, it may become unpleasing if not
properly balanced. What would the olfactory profile of a dealcoholised wine be?
Certainly very different. Some aromas would no longer be perceived or however
attenuated – because of the absence of the volatile vector of ethyl alcohol –
while others would become more evident, because of the attenuation of others.
Furthermore, from a gustatory point of view, alcohol contributes to the
roundness of the wine, a fundamental element for the balance of both acidity
and astringency. With the elimination of alcohol, therefore, this balance would
no longer be created – which should therefore be obtained in different ways –
and the olfactory and gustatory expressions would inevitably be different. It
is not wine anymore.
I am not questioning the fact a similar drink derived from wine cannot be
pleasing: it will surely meet the favor of certain consumers. Certainly
pleasing and very successful but, undeniably, it is not wine anymore. If the
reason for this choice – as some argue – is aimed at fighting the abuse of
alcohol, anyone wishing to abuse alcohol has endless alternatives to wine and
certainly much more effective than it. If the dealcoholization of wine
really aims to contrast the serious and certainly deplorable habit of alcohol
abuse, I expect, for example, similar measures in favor of the possibility of
producing dealcoholised spirits. Finally, if they want to favor the creation of
a new market, with a product appreciated by certain consumers and which could
increase the profits of wineries, therefore having the possibility of a new
market in addition to the usual one, go ahead but, please, do not call it wine
because it is not wine at all.
Antonello Biancalana
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