The cultivation of a vineyard or any other type of crop is dictated by the
ethical and ideological sense of the farmer, adopting the method he or she
believes to be the most suitable one for his or her own vision and coherent with
the personal idea of the environment – last but not least – capable of allowing
the production of healthy food or beverages for consumers, while ensuring profit.
Anyone who cultivates land using organic farming therefore believes they are
acting according to healthier criteria, both for the environment and for the
consumer. To achieve this goal, shared and defined protocols are followed
– either one's own, according to the personal vision or that of an
association or controlling institution – generally limiting or excluding the use
of substances which are considered unhealthy and harmful to man and the
environment. Adopting the cultivation according to organic farming does not mean
giving up the use of chemical products; rather make use of substances,
even chemicals, which are considered respectful and healthy, especially within
certain formulations and quantities.
It is not my intention – of course – to specifically deal with the purpose and
effects, including negative ones, of the chemical substances used in
viticulture, whether conventional or organic. Nor is it my intention to try to
support or denigrate one or the other cultural philosophy, as, very often,
there is the risk of causing useless ideological and thought clashes. What I can
instead testify – in about thirty years spent in the world of wine, also by
tasting, by now, several tens of thousands of glasses – is that organic
viticulture has followed exactly the cycle of any other fad about wine. As
such, it had an explosive start – and I'm talking about the mid-1990s –
followed by a relative stasis, therefore falling within the consensus of
consumers, producers included, then going back up again with a decisive impetus,
finally returning to the equilibrium phase. All of this – like any other
fad – has also created supporters and opponents of organic wine (and not only
that), both in consumers and producers.
By considering what is happening across the Alps – in France – organic
viticulture is perhaps going through a new period of indifference. According
to the data released by Agence Bio – the French agency for the development and
promotion of organic farming – in the document Les chiffres du Bio Panorama
2O22 (The figures of the Bio panorama 2022), the last year in France there was
a marked drop in the number of vineyards registered for conversion to organic
farming compared to 2021. In fact, 2022 saw a sudden drop in the conversion of
French vineyards to organic farming, after a long period of growth which seemed
to be unstoppable. Data released by Agence Bio indicate that, in 2022, only
13,000 hectares of vineyards were registered for conversion to organic farming. A
drop that marks -48% compared to 2021, when 24,800 hectares of vineyards were
registered instead.
Despite the decrease in registrations in 2022 compared to 2021, the total area of
vineyards cultivated with organic farming has however increased by 5%. According
to what was released by Agence Bio, this would be a signal that should not be
underestimated, despite the fact it is – in overall terms – consistent with the
current market trend of all the agricultural and food supply chains certified as
organic. One of the causes which determined the current condition is to be
traced back to excess production, such as to represent a consistent difficulty
for the market of organic and bulk wines. In 2022, in fact, the sale of organic
products in French supermarkets suffered a drop of -5%, while in shops
specializing in organic farming products there was an even more substantial drop
of -9%. In determining these negative results, wine – of course – represents
an important share, both for the French domestic market and for exports.
According to what was released by Agence Bio, wines from organic farming
represent – alone – 39% of the overall export, for an economic volume of 565
million euros. This figure is in any case a positive sign as it marks an increase
of +2% compared to 2021. As regards the French domestic market, the sale of
wines from organic farming – despite the negative influence of current
inflation – grew by +5%, equal to 1.4 billion euro. This result is nonetheless
significant, in particular by considering the drop recorded in large-scale
distribution (-7%, equal to 134 million euro) and shops specializing in organic
products (-7%, equal to 55 million euro). The sectors which recorded a growth
were those of direct sales (+5%, equal to 421 million euros), winery networks
(+8%, equal to 159 million euros) and catering (+12%, equal to 129 million
euros).
Overall, 21% of France's vineyards are cultivated in organic agriculture
– recognized by the relative certification – of which one third are in the
conversion phase. The territory of France in which is recorded the largest share
of vineyards cultivated in organic farming is Bordeaux, in particular the
Gironde, with a total of 27,200 hectares, half of which in the process of
conversion, where are being produced 31% of the total organic wines in France.
Another territory of primary importance is Languedoc-Roussillon, in addition to
the Rhone Valley which makes up 21% of the entire surface. In this regard, Henri
Cozyns – president of the Vignerons Bio of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, the first
territory in France for the surface area of vineyards under conversion –
underlined the role and figure of the organic winemaker, defined as «the one
who pampers biodiversity, safeguards natural resources, innovates with unique
wines, without sulfur and other additions, participating in the local network. A
winemaker who employs almost twice as many workers and does not disappoint, the
one you would like to have as a neighbor».
If the French organic wine market is experiencing a moment of difficulty, that of
bulk wine is even considered moribund. And this, long before organic wine
became an important element in the wine economy of France. In this regard, many
are wondering about the real usefulness and necessity of bulk wine today, not
only because of the fact in France there is a clear decline in consumption, but
above all because of the choice of preferring bottled quality wine. The French
consumer – therefore – is more interested in the quality and pleasure of a good
wine, even if this means paying a higher price. In this regard, it is very
interesting what emerges from the study conducted by Sowine-Dynata, a French
consultancy agency specialized in wine trade and communication. According to this
study, wines sold at prices below 5 euros are purchased by 2% of consumers,
while 19% opt for bottles between 5 and 10 euros. 55% of French consumers buy
wines sold at prices between 11 and 20 euros, while 24% are interested in those
with prices over 20 euros.
According to this study, therefore, the French consumer wants to drink less, but
when he or she decides to do so, prefers good, quality and healthy wine, despite
the fact this may correspond to an increase in price. If this condition is not
met, the French consumer completely ignores the wine offer in the shop and
decides to buy beer or other alcoholic beverages. In truth, this behavior is not
found in France only. Even in Italy, it seems, consumers are since quite a long
time oriented towards consuming less wine, but when they decide to do so, they
choose quality bottles, therefore willing to spend more. This attitude is found
both among consumers who prefer the so-called organic wines, and those who
are not primarily interested in this kind of wine. Regardless of the market trend
of the so-called organic wines, it is probably the normal cycle of interest
that consumers show towards certain products, not only a cultural fact,
therefore, but also the fad of the moment. Organic or non-organic, at
least as far as I am concerned, the important thing is always to adopt conscious
consumption, in moderation, provided it is always of high quality.
Antonello Biancalana
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