It has been talked about for a long time, for many it is an important measure to address the difficult times the wine industry is going through, for others it is a small step, but – as they say – it is however better than nothing. After reaching an agreement among European Union countries last December, the Strasbourg Parliament approved, and therefore ratified, the so-called “wine package”. The vote was 625 in favor, 15 against, and 11 abstentions. The measure defines and establishes measures to support the European wine sector, especially given the current and, unfortunately, well-known state of wine production and trade. It also introduces specific rules for the definition and labeling of so-called dealcoholized wine. This latter aspect is clearly of greater interest to consumers, particularly those who are or may be interested in this product.

 The measures primarily concern producers and are designed to provide support for current conditions, including climate-related issues, which are intended to promote a re-balancing of supply and demand. Financial support is also provided for producers should particular conditions arise, including climate-related issues, as well as assistance for marketing wine to non-European countries. Specifically, incentives are provided for both the economic growth of rural areas and the promotion of quality wines to non-EU countries, with funding of up to 60% of expenses. Furthermore, member countries can contribute up to a maximum of 30% for small and medium-sized enterprises and 20% for large ones. Additional financial support is also provided for producers committed to promoting wine tourism.

 The European Union is providing support for investments to combat the effects of climate change, up to 80% of eligible costs. The “wine package” also includes measures to rebalance market supply and demand, such as the possibility of using European funds for vine uprooting in order to stabilize production following lower demand and sales. Support for the distillation of surplus wine and green harvesting is also established, set at 25% for each member state. The expiration date for planting rights has also been abolished, introducing a 10-year review period. The goal is to prevent wine overproduction by allowing holders to maintain their planting authorizations and therefore avoiding heavy penalties. This allows producers to suspend production of a particular wine in case trade conditions are not favorable for its marketing.

 Specific support has been envisaged – as mentioned – for businesses engaged in wine tourism initiatives. In this regard, contributions are provided for promotional and information campaigns, as well as participation in events, exhibitions, and industry studies aimed at promoting wine-growing regions, with the goal of attracting new visitors and encouraging tourism. New labeling rules have also been introduced for so-called dealcoholized wines, or wines with a reduced alcohol content, with the aim of making their recognition and identification clearer and more uniform. “Dealcoholized wines” will display the term “alcohol-free” on the label, in addition to the specification “0.0%”, used in case the alcohol content does not exceed 0.05%. For wines with an alcohol content between 0.5% and 30% of the original alcohol content, the specification “reduced alcohol content” will be included on the label. As expected, these products are labeled as “wine”, followed by the relevant additional information.

 As for labeling, the new rules introduce digital standardization through QR (Quick Response) codes, allowing consumers to get more information about the bottle and the wine. The so-called “wine package” – which, according to initial comments, has been positively received by producers – now moves to the Council of the European Union for consideration, formally adopting the legislation before publication in the Official Journal of the European Union, marking its effective entry into force. Referring to the “wine package”, EU Agriculture Commissioner Christophe Hansen stated «developments over the past year have clearly demonstrated that the problems identified persist and, in some cases, have even intensified. This is why the sector urgently needs new EU measures. The package introduces additional and more flexible tools that will address both the structural oversupply of wine in some regions and cyclical imbalances linked to climate or market events. This provides more flexible tools that member states can use to address crisis situations, such as declining demand, changing consumer preferences, the effects of climate change, and the increasingly volatile and unpredictable international environment».

 Overall, producers welcomed the ratification of the “wine package”, although some opinions were mixed or less than favorable. For many, however, it is an excellent start from which to proceed in a constructive and even more effective manner, especially given the unique circumstances facing the wine and winemaking sector. Among producers, in fact, some welcome the “wine package”, emphasizing that critical issues remain, they have not been fully addressed and should have been treated more effectively. One might say that “you cannot always have everything at once”, perhaps appreciating the good starting point, at least according to the most widespread opinion among producers and industry organizations. It is well known that the wine world has been going through a difficult time for a long period. The fact that institutions have taken measures to protect and support the wine sector is certainly excellent news. It may not please everyone and may not effectively address all the current critical issues, but it is still a starting point for improvement. It had to start somewhere, and it is certainly a first step. Time, as well as new conditions, will tell about the effectiveness and value of the “wine package”. It is a useful step, hopefully one that will revive the fortunes of wine, from production to the market, from consumption to, and above all, culture.

 Garganega and Chardonnay. Two decidedly different grapes, in every respect, are being evaluated in the glasses of our tasting by contrast. The former is the undisputed glory of the white wines of the provinces of Verona and Vicenza, primarily known for the wines of the Soave, Soave Superiore, and Recioto di Soave denominations. The latter is the most famous – and celebrated – of the French white grapes, a daughter of Burgundy, undeniably the mother of legendary wines. Although the two varieties undoubtedly have distinct and distant origins, they share – so to speak – the destiny of being widespread beyond their respective territories. Of the two, Chardonnay is evidently the more widespread, its presence is virtually found in every winegrowing region of the world. Garganega, beyond its primary territory in the Veneto, is also present, to varying degrees, in other regions of Italy, from north to south, including central Italy, even reaching as far as the two main Italian islands: Sicily and Sardinia.

 For years, Chardonnay has been the chimera, or rather, the obsession, of global winemaking. In the hope of replicating the success of French wines, it has been literally introduced to every winegrowing region in the world. Its presence in Italian vineyards is both fundamental and significant since a very long time, so much so that it is used in many of the country's denominations, both alone and blended with other varieties. This is the case with one of the wines we will be pouring in the glasses of our tasting – Chardonnay di Torgiano – an example that is certainly not isolated, as Italy boasts dozens of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC), as well as Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Typical Geographical Indication, IGT), which include it in their disciplinary. In the tasting by contrast of this month, we will be pouring Soave Superiore Classico and Chardonnay di Torgiano, both sharing the common characteristic of being aged in wood. This winemaking technique is very often used for the Umbrian wine, somewhat less so for the one from Veneto, although counting many interesting interpretations.

 The wines of the three “Soave” denominations are certainly the most celebrated and well-known whites of the province of Verona. This territory, in fact, defines the denomination of origin Soave, Soave Superiore, and Recioto di Soave, the latter two recognized by the Italian quality system as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG). The three denominations share the primary presence of Garganega, a white grape variety of undisputed quality, capable of creating wines of absolute value and prestige. Furthermore, the Soave denomination is one of the first Denominations of Origin in Italy, established in 1968, and has been subject, over the years, to many revisions and modifications, until reaching the current revision in 2011. The Superiore style, which we are examining in the tasting of this month, was originally part of the “Soave DOC” denomination, has been recognized to the highest classification allowed by the Italian quality system in 2001, when its Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) was established.

 The Soave Superiore denomination also defines 33 Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (Additional Geographical Units, UGA), which may be indicated on the label. The disciplinary also defines the terms “classico” and “riserva”. The former is reserved for wines produced in the oldest territory, as defined in the ministerial decree of October 23, 1931; the latter for wines released for consumption no earlier than November 1 of the year following production. Regarding the composition, the Soave Superiore disciplinary require the presence of at least 70% Garganega, with a maximum of 30% Trebbiano di Soave and Chardonnay. In this additional quota, non-aromatic white grape varieties permitted in the province of Verona may be used, up to a maximum of 5%. The disciplinary also permits the aging in wooden containers, without specifying either the type or the minimum period of time. This technique, although not the most widely used for the wines of the denomination, however represents an interesting and significant share, giving these wines greater structure and organoleptic complexity.

 Among Umbria's most established and important denominations, Torgiano is primarily known for its red wines, in which Sangiovese is the main grape. The Torgiano denomination, however, is rich and complex, with its own disciplinary defining, in addition to reds, whites, rosés, sparkling, and sweet wines. Torgiano is one of historic denominations of Italy, officially recognized in 1968 and subjected – over the years – to changes, up until the latest revision in 2023. In the same territory is also defined the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) Torgiano Rosso Riserva, recognized in 1990 and, again, subject to revision in 2023. The Torgiano DOC disciplinary, as already mentioned, define the production of different styles of wines, providing for – moreover – the use of international varieties such as Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, all clearly defined on the label.

 Among these white wines, it is permitted the use of Chardonnay, a variety which can also be used in the production of Bianco di Torgiano. According to the production disciplinary, Chardonnay di Torgiano, as is the case for many Italian denominations, requires at least 85% of Chardonnay grape, while the remaining part, if any, may be made up of non-aromatic white grape varieties permitted for cultivation in Umbria. Although the disciplinary does not provide for specific fermentation and aging practices for whites, wines from this area made with Chardonnay are often vinified in wooden containers, particularly the barrique. This celebrated white grape from Burgundy has been present in the Torgiano area for over sixty years, having been introduced along with other French varieties with the aim of evaluating their potential in the heart of Umbria. A presence now consolidated and successful, so much so that they are included in the Torgiano DOC disciplinary as well as those of other territories in the region.

The color of Chardonnay di Torgiano

 We now need to get the two bottles we will be pouring in the glasses of the tasting by contrast of this month. They are widely available wines and denominations – in particular, Soave Superiore – therefore it will not be difficult to obtain both bottles, even in large supermarkets. However, we will make sure that both wines are actually made with the primary grapes declared in their respective production disciplinary: Garganega for the Soave Superiore Classico and Chardonnay for the Torgiano wine. Furthermore, we will make sure that both wines have been aged in barrique, a production technique often used for Chardonnay di Torgiano, but less so for the Soave Superiore Classico. Therefore, especially for the latter wine, we will be careful in selecting the two bottles. The wines are from the most recent harvest and are served in their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 11°C (52 °F).

 After pouring the wines into their respective tasting glasses, we can begin evaluating their appearance, that is, how the wines are seen to the eye in terms of color and transparency. The first wine we will examine is Soave Superiore Classico. We tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper will suffice – and observe the base. The Veneto wine displays an intense and brilliant straw yellow color, with a very high transparency, assessed by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface. We now observe the edge of the glass towards the opening, where the wine becomes thinner, noting a hue similar to the base color, that is an intense and brilliant straw yellow. We now move on to evaluating the appearance of Chardonnay di Torgiano, in which we will not notice any significant differences from the Veneto wine. In this wine, too, we will observe an intense and brilliant straw yellow color, with very high transparency. Finally, the hue confirms the base color.

 The aromas of Garganega and Chardonnay are characterized by substantial and significant differences, regardless of where they are grown and vinified. These are, in fact, varieties capable of imparting distinctive olfactory profiles to their wines, as is the case of Soave Superiore Classico and Chardonnay di Torgiano. Furthermore, in the wines we will be tasting this month, the contribution of wood aging to their respective olfactory and flavor profiles must also be taken into account. This characteristic – just like any other wine produced with the same winemaking technique – depending on its use, directly influences the sensorial qualities of the wine. The intensity and extent of this sensorial contribution varies according to several factors, including the type of wooden container and its volume, the period of aging, the choice of fermenting the must in cask or barrique, and, of course, the aging. As is well known, the type of wood used to make the barrel also gives the wines its own character, as does the intensity and type of toasting used during the construction of the barrel.

 We resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Soave Superiore Classico and Chardonnay di Torgiano, starting – as in the previous phase – with the Veneto wine. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we proceed with the first smell in order to assess the opening of the wine, that is, its primary and identifying aromas. Soave Superiore Classico is recognized by aromas of apple, pear, and peach, along with floral notes of hawthorn and broom. We swirl the glass – an operation that encourages the development of the remaining aromas – and proceed with the second smell. The profile of the Veneto wine is rounded out with plum, pineapple, and, very often, a scent directly reminiscent of almond. We also perceive sensations recalling citrus fruits, particularly grapefruit. Let's now move on to the aromatic profile of Chardonnay di Torgiano and examine the opening. From the glass, we appreciate aromas of banana and apple, along with a floral scent reminiscent of acacia. After swirling the glass, the aromatic profile is completed with pear, plum, peach, and often citrus notes of citron and grapefruit, as well as other sensations reminiscent of exotic fruit. In both wines, the contribution of the oak is clearly and directly perceived, particularly the characteristic aroma of vanilla.

 Let's move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the two wines in our tasting. Again, the first wine we examine is Soave Superiore Classico, starting with the attack, the primary sensation perceived in the mouth upon first sip. The attack of this Veneto wine is characterized by the immediate crispness provided by the acidity, a quality which is immediately balanced by the effect of the alcohol and, equally important, the roundness attributable to the oak aging. In the mouth we perceive flavors of apple, pear, and peach, along with the characteristic almond flavor, recognizable by its peculiar and pleasing bitter touch. The body of the Veneto wine is decidedly well-structured. Let's now evaluate the attack of Chardonnay di Torgiano, therefore let's take a sip from its glass. In the mouth we perceive the pleasing crispness provided by the acidity, readily balanced by the effect of the alcohol, as well as the typical roundness of Chardonnay, which combines with that of the oak aging. The structure of Umbrian wine is generally fuller than that of Veneto – as well as roundness – and in the mouth we perceive flavors of banana, apple, peach and grapefruit.

 We have reached the end of the tasting by contrast of this month, so let's move on to evaluating the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Soave Superiore Classico is persistent, leaving in the mouth long-lasting flavors of apple, pear, peach, and plum, along with a pleasing bitter note reminiscent of almond. Moreover, in the mouth we can continue to perceive the sensation of crispness provided by the acidity, along with a pleasing roundness and a sensation of good structure. The finish of Chardonnay di Torgiano is persistent as well, with long-lasting flavors of banana, apple, peach, and grapefruit, often combined with other tropical fruit notes. Here too, the sensation of crispness provided by the acidity is clearly perceptible, still finding balance with the sensation of roundness, which is generally more intense than that of Soave Superiore Classico. Finally, the sensation of structure is often more intense and robust than that of the Veneto wine.

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