For months now, I have been wondering about the future of red and fortified wines. Looking at recent events happening in the wine world – and not just in Italy – the future does not seem promising. Trends and consumption patterns in recent years, in fact, are highlighting a progressive decline in the preference for these wines, and, at least for this time, the well-known issues related to current market conditions do not seem to be so decisive. They certainly play a role, but – more than anything else – it seems like a drastic shift in consumer preferences is occurring. The enormous upheaval in wine's identity, and, let me add, including its dignity, both historical and cultural, seems to be progressively and increasingly relegating red and fortified wines to the marginal periphery of the wine scene. While it is true that this has been the case for fortified wines for years, as well as for dessert wines made from dried grapes, this is a relatively recent change for red wines.

 Sales figures for red wines, and even worse fortified and sweet wines made from dried grapes, have been declining sharply for months, while white, rosé, and sparkling wines are seeing increases, even significant ones. Certainly, wine enthusiasts who have “several bottles poured into their glasses” might argue that, in fact, the shift in consumption between various wine styles is a phenomenon repeating itself punctually and cyclically over the years. This time, however, the situation appears to be more serious and significant than a change in fads or market trend. The cyclical race between whites and reds is something we have witnessed for years. However, when it is one of the world's leading wine-producing countries, also known for its red wines – France – that decides to uproot vineyards planted with red grapes, it should make everyone think about that. And even a lot. Of course, these are vineyards mostly destined for the production of consumer wines, certainly not the historic French appellation wines.

 This is a sign that, at least on the other side of the Alps, the red wine market is not expected to recover anytime soon, especially by considering that a vineyard – after planting vine shoots – needs at least five years to reach even the slightest significant production in enological terms. Today, the red wines most affected by this new decline are those with a robust, full structure, powerful and muscular wines – for example, made from Sagrantino and Nebbiolo grapes – those I personally appreciate very much. Of course, they are not the only ones, as I equally appreciate the decidedly more elegant and less muscular ones, especially Pinot Noir. Many believe modern cuisine and current eating habits are the main culprits behind this change. That wine is increasingly less present on the table has long been known, something that concerns all wines, not just reds. It is also true that the dishes that pair best with red wines – especially the robust ones – are increasingly less cooked and sought after, and therefore progressively absent from our tables.

 Moreover, the current trend toward the lower consumption of alcoholic beverages – and not just in favor of other drinks – red and fortified wines are certainly the most obvious “sacrificial victims”, guilty of having a higher alcohol content. Last but not least, the recent trend, supported by a significant promotional campaign, in favor of the production of so-called “alcohol-free wines”, the future of red wines, especially the more “robust” ones, does not appear promising. It also represents a shift in consumer preferences, who – in recent times – have been preferring what I call the “less wines”, that is, with less alcohol, less tannins, less structure, less acidity. Less wines, indeed. A decidedly embarrassing decline in consumption, often characterized by “simple” and rather insignificant products, blending in with thousands of others, all the same and similar, lacking character or identity. These are immediate and direct wines, without any particular wine-making pretensions, decidedly the opposite and distant from robust and powerful reds. But also from those “good-bodied” wines, with a certain character and personality.

 Lately, it seems to me that the future of wine is heading down the same path already taken by many foods and culinary recipes: that of “without”. In recent years, most of the time for reasons related to fads, the foods we have always been accustomed to, have gradually undergone the “without” or “free” revolution: gluten-free, fat-free, sugar-free, without “whatever the latest fad dictates”. Few, however, think about the fact that to make up for the shortcomings of the reviled “without”, something else must be added in order to allow that food to still be balanced and edible, that is, “sufficiently enjoyable”. Wine is about to go through the same phase, and “without alcohol” or “alcohol-free” is not only the beginning but also the affirmation of the modern logic that combines “good and acceptable” with the concept of “less and without”. I predict that after the “alcohol-free” it will be the turn of the “tannin-free”, “acid-free”, “body-free”, and then finally and triumphantly arriving at the “wine-free” and “food-free”. Where the “without” or “free” is replaced by a compromise – while avoiding, no less, the effort of thinking about what was added in place of the subtraction – and they all lived happily ever after.

 Red and fortified wines, as well as the vast majority of sweet wines made from dried grapes, become the “ideal sacrificial victims”. It has begun with the “alcohol-free” – a quality these wines usually offer generously – and then an inquisitive finger will be pointed at everything else: tannins and astringency, acidity and structure, color and character. It will not take long; it has already begun, and the wineries involved in the production of these wines know it well. Suddenly, from the pinnacle of winemaking, they are becoming the cumbersome actors on wine lists, simply considered “too much”, or rather, “not enough without or less”. Add to this the modern evolution of cuisine and contemporary eating habits, objectively, the opportunities to uncork a good bottle of “characterful” red wine gradually diminish, except in the tables of enthusiasts – and I unequivocally am among them – who still appreciate wines with an iron fist in a velvet glove. Let alone fortified wines, another lifelong passion of mine, in particular my beloved Marsala.

 If there ever is a comeback, or a resurgence, of red wines – the powerful and robust ones – I do not believe it is imminent, nor even within a few years, like the historic shifts in wine styles that have occurred in recent decades. For fortified and sweet wines made from dried grapes, I believe it will be even more difficult; they will likely remain firmly on the fringes of the winemaking scene, as has unfortunately been the case for decades now. Of course, my considerations refer only to the general and mass market, which – evidently – plays a very important role in the economy of wineries. Completely different considerations apply to wine auctions and collecting, where reds, especially the “powerful” and “robust” ones, hold a high interest among enthusiasts, even though it is, predominantly, a world of labels, vintages, names, and bottles. Personally, I find it decidedly sad to witness this change, especially when I think back to years ago, when these robust, powerful, and vigorous reds were the protagonists of the table and tastings. It is a habit I still happily maintain, and – by looking at the direction wine has been moving for a long time now – it increases my feeling of progressively belonging to a certain “small minority”. This, however, consoles me when I think of it, directed with a mocking and sly smile at the unaware majority, who do not know what they have lost, what they are losing, and what they will lose.

 There are wines and grapes that boast a long history, spanning years, often centuries, and surviving to the present day, despite sometimes being forced to adapt to modernity. Others, however, are reborn after a more or less prolonged period of oblivion, but always capable of asserting their own history and personality, also thanks to the qualitative progress of modern enology. There are so many wines and regions in Italy that can tell similar stories. Wines born in a certain way, with a specific grape composition and within a particular territory, over the years they had to revise their composition, stripping them of their historic identity, only to recover it at a later time, thus reaffirming their original identity and restoring it to modern interpretation. Sometimes this also happens to please the bureaucracy, even at the cost of erasing and altering an important page in enological history.

 Likewise, wines and grapes that once enjoyed a certain notoriety gradually decline, both in their presence in local vineyards, therefore in wines, and in consumer appreciation. After a more or less prolonged period of neglect, these same grapes are being revalued, not only by a renewed interest that had waned over time, but also and above all by a better understanding of their viticultural and enological potential. Thanks to the application of new techniques, these grapes are once again valorized and restored, fortified, to the glory of times gone by. In these cases, moreover, the “new life” of these grapes sparks the interest of territories where they were only marginally present, to the point of conquering significant vineyard shares, becoming a variety – and wine – identifying those areas. These, as we shall see, are the destinies of the two wines we are evaluating in the tasting of this month: Sicilia Perricone and Carmignano.

 Perricone is a red grape variety unmistakably and historically linked to the Trapani area and the neighboring Palermo territory. This interesting variety, in fact, is the protagonist of many red wines from the Trapani province, not least in the glorious Marsala, in the “ruby” style, of course. Perricone enjoyed widespread popularity, especially in the 19th century, in the provinces of Trapani and Palermo. It then gradually declined in popularity, almost forgotten in recent decades, only to be rediscovered and revived in recent years. Native to western Sicily – in the Trapani area, as already said – this interesting red variety, locally known as Pignatello, is permitted in the production of red wines in many Denominazione d'Origine Controllata areas (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC). The grape is also found in various provinces of Sicily, a region which – it should be noted – is recognized as a DOC throughout its entire territory, thus also permitting the production of red wines with Perricone.

 Although this variety is historically associated to the provinces of Trapani and Palermo, it is also found in other areas of the region, such as Agrigento, where Perricone is an important red variety in the wines of the Menfi DOC denomination. Specifically, the production of mono-varietal wines with Perricone grapes is currently permitted only in the Sicilia, Delia Nivolelli, and Menfi denominations – which require the usual minimum of 85% – as well as Eloro, which requires a minimum of 90%. In this regard, it should be noted the Monreale denomination, in which rosso (red), rosso riserva, and rosato (rosé) wines must be produced with a minimum of 60% Perricone, therefore also permitting the sole presence of this grape. This interesting Sicilian red variety is undeniably capable of producing wines with a well-defined and recognizable personality, supporting – no less so – vinification in wood. This winemaking technique is often adopted by producers, not only to give greater structure to the wine, but also because of the good ability of Perricone to enhance itself with the aging in wood.

 The wines of Carmignano boast a long and prestigious history, certainly among the Tuscan wines that have brought enological prestige to this region for centuries. History tells us that wine production in this area – in the province of Prato – dates back to Etruscan times, as proved by significant archaeological finds and wine amphorae discovered inside tombs from that era. Furthermore, viticulture and olive growing are historically documented in Capezzana as early as 804, a place that remains today among the most important and significant ones for the production of Carmignano. The fame of the wine of this area is also extolled by Francesco Redi in his celebrated dithyramb, “Bacco in Toscana” (Bacchus in Tuscany). The production area of Carmignano, no less, was defined by the equally famous edict of Cosimo III de' Medici in 1716, which established the boundaries of the production area of Carmignano wine – as well as other wines, including Chianti – becoming, as a matter of fact, what can be considered in all respects the oldest Italian production disciplinary.

 In 1932, Carmignano wines were included in the Chianti production disciplinary, while in 1967 they were assigned to the Montalbano subzone. However, their inclusion in the Chianti production disciplinary meant losing the use of the uva francesca (French grape) variety, imported from France and introduced to this area by the Medici family. This variety is Cabernet Sauvignon, which arrived in these lands thanks to Catherine de' Medici – famously married in France, where she became queen in the sixteenth century – who sent samples of this vine, which were planted on the Medici estates. It was in 1975 that the Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc grapes – that is, the original uva francesca varieties – became again part of Carmigiano, when the territory was separated from Chianti, requiring a specific DOC regulation that reinstated the historic composition. In 1990, Carmignano wines have then been promoted to the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita status (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin, DOCG). Today, Carmignano is produced with at least 50% Sangiovese, to which Canaiolo Nero may be added for a maximum of 20%, as well as Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon for a minimum of 10% and no more than 20%. The classic Chianti varieties Trebbiano Toscano, Canaiolo Bianco, and Malvasia del Chianti may also be used for a maximum of 10%.

The color of Carmignano

 Before pouring the two wines into the glasses for the tasting of this month, we need to purchase the bottles of Sicilia Perricone and Carmignano. It is important to note that, in both cases, availability may be somewhat challenging. These wines, in fact, are not produced in significant quantities. In the case of Sicilia Perricone, this is due to the tendency of local producers to focus on other and more famous regional grapes; in the case of Carmignano, it is simply because of the limited area of the territory defined by the hilly zone of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano, in the province of Prato. For the Sicilian wine, we will make sure it is produced with 100% Perricone, while for the Carmignano, we will choose a bottle exclusively made with Sangiovese and the maximum allowable percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, that is 20%. In both cases, we will choose wines aged in cask and from the most recent harvests available. Sicilia Perricone and Carmignano are poured into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C (65 °F).

 We can now begin our tasting by contrast, therefore evaluating the appearance of the wines, that is, their visual impact in terms of color and transparency. The first wine we examine is Sicilia Perricone, we therefore tilt its glass over a white surface. We observe the wine at the base of the glass: it reveals an intense and brilliant ruby red color, while its transparency – assessed by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface – is rather low. We now observe Sicilia Perricone toward the opening of the glass, where the thickness of the wine is thinnest, and evaluate its nuance, which reveals the same base color, often characterized by purplish-red hues. Let's now move on to evaluating the appearance of Carmignano and observe the base of the glass. The color of the Tuscan wine shows an intense and brilliant ruby red, with significantly low transparency. The nuances of Carmigniano reveals a ruby red color, often tending towards garnet.

 The olfactory profiles of Sicilia Perricone and Carmignano are, as one might easily imagine, decidedly different. Despite sharing similarities in sensations reminiscent of certain red and black fruits, as well as flowers, the two wines – in their common qualities – substantially differ in terms of sequence and intensity. On the nose, Sicilia Perricone is predominantly recognized for its aromas of black cherry, blueberry, and blackberry, often followed by raspberry and plum, along with floral sensations, primarily violet and cyclamen. The olfactory profile of Carmignano naturally combines the typical qualities of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, therefore from the glass, the aromas primarily perceived are black cherry, plum, and black currant, along with blueberry and, often, blackberry. As for floral sensations, Carmignano is predominantly characterized by violet.

 Let's now proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Sicilia Perricone and Carmignano, starting, as in the previous phase, with the Sicilian wine. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we proceed with the first smell to appreciate the opening. Sicilia Perricone is recognized on the nose by its aromas of black cherry, blueberry, and blackberry, well-supported by the unmistakable touch of violet. We now swirl the glass – an operation favoring the development of the remaining aromas – and proceed with the second smell. The olfactory profile of Sicilia Perricone is completed with aromas of plum, cyclamen, and, often, sensations attributable to aromatic herbs, such as juniper and thyme. Let's now move on to evaluating the opening of Carmignano: on the nose we perceive – intense and pleasing – aromas of black cherry, plum, and black currant, also in this case accompanied by violet. After swirling the glass, the profile of the Tuscan wine is completed with blueberry, often blackberry, along with herbaceous notes reminiscent of bell pepper. Both wines inevitably also reveal aromas typical of wood aging, particularly vanilla.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the two wines, starting, again, with the Sicilian wine. Let's take a sip of Sicilia Perricone and evaluate its attack, that is, what is initially perceived in the mouth. The Sicilian wine is characterized by the pleasing astringency produced by the tannins, balanced by the effect of the alcohol, which is also combined with a pleasing crispness, in this case balanced by the roundness conferred by the aging in cask. The flavors of black cherry, blueberry, and blackberry are perceived on the palate, therefore having a good correspondence with the nose. Let's now move on to evaluating the attack of Carmignano, proceeding with the first sip. The palate perceives a pleasing astringency, again well-balanced by the effect of the alcohol and the roundness conferred by the aging in cask. The sensation of structure is fuller than that of Perricone, mainly due to the contribution of Cabernet Sauvignon. Furthermore, in the mouth can be perceived flavors of black cherry, plum and black currant, as well as a sensation of a more robust structure compared to Sicilia Perricone.

 We conclude the tasting by contrast of this month by evaluating the final sensations of the two wines, in particular their olfactory-gustatory persistence and the perceptible qualities after swallowing. The finish of Sicilia Perricone is persistent, and the palate continues to perceive pleasing sensations of astringency and crispness, along with good structure and moderate roundness. Flavors of black cherry, blueberry, and blackberry are also evident. The finish of Carmignano is persistent as well, leaving pleasing flavors of black cherry, plum, and black currant in the mouth, accompanied by a good sense of structure – even at this stage, more robust than the Sicilian wine – as well as pleasing astringency and roundness. Before concluding the tasting of this month, we proceed with a final smell of the two wines, first Sicilia Perricone and then Carmignano. The sensations the two wines offer on the nose are very distinct and recognizable. Finally, we compare the contribution of cask aging and its effect on the olfactory profile of the two wines.

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