Wine Culture and Information since 2002 - Volume 17
×
Home Page Events Wine Guide Wine of the Day Aquavitae Wine Places Guide Podcast Polls EnoGames EnoForum Serving Wine Alcohol Test
Follow DiWineTaste on DiWineTaste Mobile for Android DiWineTaste Mobile for iOS Become a Registered User Subscribe to the Mailing List Tell a Friend About DiWineTaste Download DiWineTaste Card
About Us Write Us Back Issues Advertising General Index
Privacy Policy
 


 Editorial  Share this article     Summary of Wine Tasting column Events 
  Wine Tasting Issue 152, June 2016   
Contrasts of Picolit and Malvasia delle LipariContrasts of Picolit and Malvasia delle Lipari Wines of the MonthWines of the Month  Contents 
Issue 151, May 2016 Follow DiWineTaste on Follow DiWineTaste on TwitterIssue 153, Summer 2016

Contrasts of Picolit and Malvasia delle Lipari

Two extreme points of Italy however magnificent wine lands, famous for white and red wines, as well as for amazing sweet wines from dried grapes

 An important page of the Italian wine scene is certainly written by sweet wines, in particular, those made from dried grapes. Very successful wines of the past when they were receiving the favor of the tables of wealth people and noble classes, they were considered as genuine divine nectars. Very common and virtually produced in every wine making country of Europe, sweet wines made from dried grapes represent the descendants of the enology of those remote times. Documents of the past frequently mentioned, and with high praises, the quality and prestige of sweet wines, a quality that was - very likely - common to most of the wines made in ancient Greece. Times have changed, and with them taste as well, and, despite sweet wines are still capable of evoking a certain charm, they however have a different character than those made in the past. With their “ancestors” they still have a strong bond, in particular prestige and elegance.

 What they do not have in common anymore with the wines made in the past is the favor of consumers, as sweet wines made from dried grapes are among the least sold ones of the market. Consumers seem in fact to be more interested in dry wines, as opposed to what can be seen, for example, in food, as sweet food is clearly very successful. Italy is one of the main wine countries in which the production of sweet wines is among the most important ones. Enology and culture of every region, in fact, can offer many traditional sweet wines and it can be said that, in Italy, there is no region in which it is not produced at least one sweet wine. From Alps to Sicily, in the Bel Paese flows a river of sweet wines, always reserved for the important occasions. Our tasting by contrast will have as protagonists two great representatives of this style: Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit and Malvasia delle Lipari, the wine glory of Aeolian Islands, in Sicily.

 

Picolit


 

 Picolit is a grape originating from Friuli Venezia Giulia, rare and difficult to cultivate, in past times it has severely run the risk of extinction because of producers having less and less interest in this grape. This grape is commonly known to give very low yeasts, producers of the past preferred cultivating high yielding varieties, something quite common in the past recent times. If we add to this the low interest sweet wines are catching from the market, the few producers who stubbornly continued to commit and make Picolit wines certainly did not have florid times. Thanks to the renewed interest arose in the last twenty years, in particular the attention for quality wines and local products, Picolit lived a new success and also received international acclaim. Luckily, today many producers, including those who are historically committed to Picolit, have developed an interest for this magnificent grape, therefore giving the world an incredible sweet nectar.

 A grape of very ancient origins, it is believed to be very appreciated at the times of ancient Romans. Characterized by small and loosely packed bunches, Picolit makes very few berries per bunch, however, thanks to the high content in sugar, it is well suited for the production of sweet wines. Picolit, because of its very low yield, has always lived moments of alternated glory and, in modern times, its revaluation has been done thanks to Perusini family of Rocca Bernarda winery. This allowed Picolit to become quite common in the province of Udine, therefore added to the appellation Colli Orientali del Friuli. Picolit produced in this area is today recognized as a DOCG wine and it also includes the Cialla sub-area. Thanks to this ranking, Picolit is getting the interest of both producers and consumers, however remaining a rare and precious wine, certainly ones of the most valuable and looked for sweet wines of Italy.

 

Malvasia delle Lipari

 As for value and prestigious, the sweet wine produced since a very long time in the Aeolian Islands is nothing less. Malvasia delle Lipari is in fact one of the magnificent and prestigious sweet wines produced in Italy. Grapes used for its production have a higher yield than Picolit, however it is a rare and precious wine because of the limited area in which it is produced in. Malvasia delle Lipari is produced with the grape having the same name to which it is added a very small part of Corinto Nero grape. Production of this rare and noble wine is allowed in the whole territory of the Aeolian Islands, however most of the producers are found in the island of Salina. Malvasia delle Lipari has always been a wine catching the interest of men, wine of very ancient roots, it represents an absolute pearl of Italian enology. Because of the particular morphology of the territory - small islands with a land not always easy to cultivate - the production of this wine can be considered a sort of magic and of absolute magnificence, something well proven by its indisputable quality.


The amber
coppery color of Malvasia delle Lipari
The amber coppery color of Malvasia delle Lipari

 Malvasia delle Lipari grape, one of the many varieties belonging to the vast family of Malvasie, is found in this island since remote times and it is believed to be introduced here by Greek colonizers around 580 BC. The magic of this wine consists, according to the production disciplinary, of about 95% Malvasia delle Lipari and the remaining part of Corinto Nero, this too a grape introduced by Greeks in the Aeolian Islands. Malvasia delle Lipari wine has always caught the interest of wine lovers and many chroniclers of the past have praised its quality in their writings. A charm still alive and capable of giving the senses of tasters unique complexity and personality. An undeniable magic reflecting the charm of these islands where remote history and amazing views joins the beauty of the sea, which influence is clearly perceptible in sensorial characteristics of Malvasia delle Lipari.

 

Tasting

 Our tasting by contrast, despite the two wines could be considered similar because of their sweet taste, will spot substantial sensorial differences. As for Picolit, we will choose a bottle belonging to Colli Orientali del Friuli which, it should be noticed, in this specific case is recognized as DOCG. It should also be noticed the production disciplinary provides for a minimum quantity of Picolit equals to 85% and the remaining part can be any grape allowed in Friuli Venezia Giulia with the exception of Gewürztraminer. For this reason we will pay attention about the composition of wine, by making sure it is made of 100% Picolit. Choosing Malvasia delle Lipari is clearly easier as the production disciplinary provides for the use of Malvasia delle Lipari and Corinto Nero grapes, the latter for a maximum of 8%. Wines must not be older than three years and produced in inert containers. Serving temperature will be 14 °C (58 °F) and wines poured in tasting glasses.

 Let's start our tasting by contrast from the evaluation of the appearance in both wines. Let's pour them in their respective glasses and proceed with the evaluation of color and transparency of Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit. We will hold the glass on a white surface and tilt it in order to observe color and transparency at the base and nuances at the opening of the glass. The color of Picolit generally shows an intense and brilliant golden yellow and nuances confirming the same color. Transparency is very high and it can be perfectly spotted the object put behind the glass. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Malvasia delle Lipari's appearance. Differences with Picolit are quite remarkable as the Aeolian wine shows an intense amber yellow color with evident coppery hues which can be seen in nuances as well. Transparency of Malvasia delle Lipari, despite it is quite high, is however lower than Picolit.

 The olfactory evaluation of sweet wines is most of the times amazing and, sometimes, complex and demanding. Thanks to the use of dried grapes, concentration of must and time, these wines reach very high levels of complexity and only a superficial evaluation could define them as simple and sweet. Sweet wines made from dried grapes are not the kingdom of aromas recalling dried fruits and raisin only, something which could be thought by a simple and superficial evaluation. Even in their youth, these wines express a certain level of complexity and, depending on the method used for production, develop aromas which can be hardly found in other wines. Time is also capable of giving these wines an incredible and extraordinary evolution that, thanks to the high content in sugar, alcohol and acidity, can also develop for tens of years.

 Let's now start the evaluation of aromas of our wines from Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit. By keeping the glass in vertical position and without swirling, let's do a first smell in order to appreciate the opening. From the glass are perceived intense and pleasing aromas of raisin, dried apricot and honey. After having swirled the glass, the aromatic profile of Picolit is completed by a very elegant sequence of citrus fruit peels, candied fruits, lavender, chamomile, date, peach jam and, sometimes, a pleasing sensation of nail polish and hazelnut. Let's now proceed with the evaluation of Malvasia delle Lipari: hold the glass in vertical position and without swirling in order to perceive the opening. In this wine can be appreciated aromas of raisin, dried fig, dried apricot and, in particular, honey. After having swirled the glass, Malvasia delle Lipari completes its olfactory profile with candied fruits, citrus fruits, peach jam, lavender, almond, orange marmalade and quince. It should be noticed, as opposed to Picolit, the perception of aromas recalling aromatic herbs such as rosemary, sage and caper.

 The wines of our tasting by contrast will certainly continue to please our senses in the gustatory phase as well. Let's take a sip of Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit and evaluate its attack, that is the initial perception of the wine in the mouth. We can perceive an intense sensation of sweetness, well balanced by a pleasing and essential sensation of acidity, as well as an appreciable roundness. In the mouth are also perceived flavors of raisin, dried apricot and honey, therefore confirming a very good correspondence to the nose. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Malvasia delle Lipari. In the mouth is perceived a sensation of sweetness - an obvious characteristic - and, also in this case, the perfect balance the wine gets thanks to the contribution of acidity. In this wine is perceived a stronger sensation of roundness than Picolit. In the mouth can be perceived flavors of raisin, dried fig, dried apricot and almond, as well as rosemary and sage.

 Two great wines like Picolit and Malvasia delle Lipari do not disappoint in the final phase of the tasting, while keeping their respective differences and personality. It is quite hard, in fact, wines produced with these grapes can disappoint the taster in the final phase thanks to their very long persistence. The finish of Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit is very good, sometimes expressed with very long times, leaving in the mouth intense and pleasing flavors of raisin, dried apricot and acacia honey. Moreover, in the mouth is clearly perceptible the sensation of crispness given by acidity. The finish of Malvasia delle Lipari is nothing less and, also in this case, the persistence is very long. In the mouth we can continue perceiving clean and intense flavors of raisin, dried fig, dried apricot and the typical sensations of aromatic herbs, in particular rosemary. Two magnificent interpreters of the Italian enology and of the noble category of sweet wines, Picolit and Malvasia delle Lipari make incredible nectar wines capable of giving emotions to the taster thanks to their class, finesse, elegance and prestige.

 






 Editorial  Share this article     Summary of Wine Tasting column Events 
  Wine Tasting Issue 152, June 2016   
Contrasts of Picolit and Malvasia delle LipariContrasts of Picolit and Malvasia delle Lipari Wines of the MonthWines of the Month  Contents 
Issue 151, May 2016 Follow DiWineTaste on Follow DiWineTaste on TwitterIssue 153, Summer 2016

Wines of the Month


 

Score legend

Fair    Pretty Good    Good
Very Good    Excellent
Wine that excels in its category Wine that excels in its category
Good value wine Good value wine
Prices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the country
or the shop where wines are bought




Aglianico del Vulture Titolo 2013, Elena Fucci (Basilicata, Italy)
Aglianico del Vulture Titolo 2013
Elena Fucci (Basilicata, Italy)
Aglianico
Price: € 32.00 Score:

Intense ruby red and nuances of ruby red, little transparency.
Intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant, starts with hints of blackberry, plum and black cherry followed by aromas of violet, blueberry, black currant, rosemary, vanilla, tobacco, cocoa, cinnamon, mace, pink pepper and menthol.
Tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, pleasing crispness.
Very persistent finish with long flavors of plum, blackberry and black currant.
12 months in barrique, 12 months in bottle.
Game, Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese



Avvoltore 2012, Moris Farms (Tuscany, Italy)
Avvoltore 2012
Moris Farms (Tuscany, Italy)
Sangiovese (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (5%)
Price: € 32.00 Score:

Intense ruby red and nuances of ruby red, little transparency.
Intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant, starts with hints of black currant, black cherry and plum followed by aromas of violet, blueberry, peony, vanilla, tobacco, chocolate, face powder, mace, cinnamon, pink pepper and eucalyptus.
Tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, agreeable.
Very persistent finish with long flavors of black currant, black cherry and plum.
12 months in barrique, 6 months in bottle.
Game, Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese



Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2012, Moris Farms (Tuscany, Italy)
Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2012
Moris Farms (Tuscany, Italy)
Sangiovese (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (10%)
Price: € 18.60 Score:

Intense ruby red and nuances of garnet red, little transparency.
Intense, clean, pleasing and refined, starts with hints of black cherry, plum and violet followed by aromas of blueberry, black currant, vanilla, cocoa, tobacco and mace.
Properly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable.
Persistent finish with flavors of black cherry, plum and black currant.
12 months in barrique, 6 months in bottle.
Broiled meat and barbecue, Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese



Taurasi Riserva La Loggia del Cavaliere 2009, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe (Campania, Italy)
Taurasi Riserva La Loggia del Cavaliere 2009
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe (Campania, Italy)
Aglianico
Price: € 37.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category

Intense ruby red and nuances of garnet red, little transparency.
Intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant, starts with hints of blackberry, prune and black cherry followed by aromas of blueberry, dried violet, cocoa, vanilla, mace, tobacco, licorice, leather and menthol.
Tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, agreeable.
Persistent finish with flavors of blackberry, black cherry and prune.
18 months in barrique, 12 months in bottle.
Game, Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese



Taurasi Opera Mia 2010, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe (Campania, Italy)
Taurasi Opera Mia 2010
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe (Campania, Italy)
Aglianico
Price: € 20.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category

Intense ruby red and nuances of garnet red, little transparency.
Intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant, starts with hints of plum, black cherry and blackberry followed by aromas of violet, blueberry, vanilla, tobacco, chocolate, mace, licorice, leather and menthol.
Tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, agreeable.
Persistent finish with flavors of plum, black cherry and blackberry.
12 months in barrique, 12 months in bottle.
Game, Braised and stewed meat, Roasted meat, Hard cheese



Langhe Chardonnay Asso di Fiori 2013, Braida (Piedmont, Italy)
Langhe Chardonnay Asso di Fiori 2013
Braida (Piedmont, Italy)
Chardonnay
Price: € 18.00 Score:

Brilliant golden yellow and nuances of golden yellow, very transparent.
Intense, clean, pleasing and refined, starts with hints of banana, apple and acacia followed by aromas of grapefruit, praline, pear, hawthorn, vanilla, plum, butter and mineral.
Crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, pleasing roundness.
Persistent finish with flavors of banana, apple and grapefruit.
8 months in barrique, 8 months in bottle.
Pasta with fish, Roasted fish, Broiled fish, Roasted white meat



Barbera d'Asti Montebruna 2014, Braida (Piedmont, Italy)
Barbera d'Asti Montebruna 2014
Braida (Piedmont, Italy)
Barbera
Price: € 12.60 Score:

Intense ruby red and nuances of ruby red, little transparency.
Intense, clean, pleasing and refined, starts with hints of cherry, plum and blueberry followed by aromas of pomegranate, violet, blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, cyclamen, chocolate and menthol.
Properly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, pleasing crispness.
Persistent finish with flavors of cherry, plum and pomegranate.
12 months in cask.
Broiled meat and barbecue, Stuffed pasta, Stewed meat with mushrooms, Cheese



Etna Rosso Calmarossa 2014, Santa Maria La Nave (Sicily, Italy)
Etna Rosso Calmarossa 2014
Santa Maria La Nave (Sicily, Italy)
Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio
Price: € 45.00 Score:

Brilliant ruby red and nuances of ruby red, moderate transparency.
Intense, clean, pleasing and refined, starts with hints of cherry, plum and raspberry followed by aromas of cyclamen, strawberry, vanilla, blueberry, chocolate, cinnamon, black pepper and menthol.
Properly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable.
Persistent finish with flavors of cherry, plum and blueberry.
12 months in barrique, 6 months in bottle.
Broiled meat and barbecue, Stewed meat with mushrooms, Roasted meat, Stuffed pasta



Sicilia Bianco Millesulmare 2014, Santa Maria La Nave (Sicily, Italy)
Sicilia Bianco Millesulmare 2014
Santa Maria La Nave (Sicily, Italy)
Grecanico
Price: € 45.00 Score:

Intense straw yellow and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent.
Intense, clean, pleasing and refined, starts with hints of apple, plum and citrus fruits followed by aromas of pear, hawthorn, peach, broom, pineapple, elder flower and almond.
Crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable.
Persistent finish with flavors of apple, plum and peach.
Aged in steel tanks.
Fried fish, Pasta with fish and vegetable, Broiled fish, Sauteed white meat






 Editorial  Share this article     Summary of Wine Tasting column Events 
  Wine Tasting Issue 152, June 2016   
Contrasts of Picolit and Malvasia delle LipariContrasts of Picolit and Malvasia delle Lipari Wines of the MonthWines of the Month  Contents 
DiWineTaste Polls
When you buy a wine, you are mainly interested in:


Result   Other Polls

 Share this poll   
What kind of wine do you like having in August?


Result   Other Polls

 Share this poll   
In choosing a wine, what is the most important factor?


Result   Other Polls

 Share this poll   



Privacy Policy

Download your free DiWineTaste Card  :  Test your Blood Alcohol Content  :  Follow DiWineTaste on Follow DiWineTaste on Twitter

Download DiWineTaste
Copyright © 2002-2019 Antonello Biancalana, DiWineTaste - All rights reserved
All rights reserved under international copyright conventions. No part of this publication and of this WEB site may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without permission in writing from DiWineTaste.