At last, even in Italy we will have the much-discussed dealcoholized wine, that is, alcohol-free or non-alcoholic wines. Or, as far as I am concerned, a liquid thing derived from wine – and which is no longer wine – obtained by a mechanical or thermal process that separates this liquid thing from ethyl alcohol. In recent days, in fact, with a specific inter-ministerial decree from the MEF-MASAF (Italian Ministry of Economy and Finance – Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry), Italy authorized the production of dealcoholized wines. A measure that, although long-awaited by some producers, remains extremely divisive. Not only among consumers, but also among producers, especially the smaller and – let me say so – orthodox ones, since the production of dealcoholized wine is neither a simple nor a cost-effective operation. The news was welcomed with great satisfaction by the major producers, who will undoubtedly have no difficulty in equipping themselves with dealcoholization plants in addition to the due obligations and costs.

 To be fair, many producers believe that the possibility of producing dealcoholized wine represents a significant market opportunity, which is expected to generate substantial economic profits. Indeed, many argue that dealcoholized wine will be strategic and crucial to the recovery of the wine industry, as it is capable of meeting new market and consumer trends. What it is not said, however, or perhaps not entirely clear, is that producing dealcoholized wine introduces new costs for producers – and not just at the production level – which, it seems inevitable, will certainly impact the final price, and therefore consumers. Personally speaking, this seems to me to be the least critical aspect, since if a consumer asks for a “special” product which is potentially more expensive to make, they must be aware of the possibility of paying a higher price.

 I have already expressed my opinion in the past regarding the so-called dealcoholized wines, and I certainly have not changed my opinion, while respecting those who may have an interest in consuming this “product”. My objection, in any case, has not changed, but it bothers me that, in some way, they are called “wines”, therefore equating them with the real ones. I am convinced that a different name should have been chosen, but it is obvious that the term “wine” is evidently useful, very useful, for its marketing. I remain firmly convinced that, in any case, dealcoholized wine does not and will not be good for real wine. Having two products with the same name but – as a matter of fact – completely different introduces a new cultural identity for wine, that is, one which is, or can be, alcohol-free. This, over time, could probably become the norm, thus replacing real wine in consumption habits. One could argue, in this regard, that non-alcoholic beer has existed for decades and, despite this, it has not had a substantial impact on the production and market of real beer.

 Of course, undeniably and evidently true. However, it is equally clear that beer has not been subjected to the same massive accusatory and denigratory campaign as wine, or rather, the alcohol it contains. It is equally true that beer, with a few exceptions and styles, has a significantly lower alcohol content than wine, generally half as much, in some cases even three times less. But this does not mean that beer – or any other alcoholic beverage – is any less “dangerous” to the health. As it is said, “it is the sum of the parts that make the total”. Total alcohol, of course. I would also add, no less importantly, an issue that I believe is fundamental for anyone who tastes wine: balance. Removing alcohol from wine inevitably creates a significant imbalance – at the very least – in favor of acidity and, when present, astringency. Alcohol, in fact, not only produces the well-known burning and pseudo-caloric sensation, but also stimuli directly linked to sweetness and roundness.

 By removing alcohol, therefore, the non-trivial need to restore the gustatory balance of wine arises. But that is not all. Alcohol is an important element for the expression of aromas, as it promotes their development and perception by the nose. In other words, dealcoholized wines are potentially less fragrant and “expressive”. From an enological perspective, of course, all this does not constitute an insurmountable problem, since any enologist knows very well how to effectively compensate for and restore the gustatory balance of a wine as well as “aiding” the expression of the aromas. It is pointless to list the techniques and substances useful for this purpose – every enologist and taster worthy of the title knows very well how to do it – adding, to avoid any misunderstanding or misinterpretation, that these are techniques, methods, and substances which are absolutely licit, legal, and permitted in enology. It does not end there. Alcohol, moreover, is an excellent preservative – of course not the only one present in wine – and ensures a certain health and microbiological stability, even over time. This means that dealcoholized wines have a decidedly shorter “life”, requiring, no less, the indication of an expiration date. Think about this: a wine with an expiration date, just like – no offense intended – a “yogurt”!

 All this, at least to me, makes me smile, especially considering that for years everyone have cried scandal at the slightest suspicion of chemical adulteration in wine – by anyway considering that wine is chemistry – and the idea that replacing alcohol could increase the use of chemicals in production, perhaps, raises no objections. Furthermore, a wine with an expiration date should make us think about the point of calling it wine. However, in these times, as is well known, the important thing is that a new trend is created – possibly to be blathered on randomly across all social media, confused in the frenetic competition for likes and the obsession with self-celebratory selfies – it does not matter how, as long as it receives the sacred blessing of the new school of thought, and (almost) everyone lives happily ever after. I reiterate, on this occasion too: I have nothing against the production and marketing of these wines, aware that there are consumers interested in or obliged to consume them for various reasons and causes, including no less important medical, health, moral, ethical reasons and legitimate lifestyle choices.

 I am equally aware, however, that the much-maligned ethyl alcohol is an integral part of wine, especially in sensorial terms as well as of its identity. Wine is not just alcohol. Anyone who consumes wine or any other alcoholic beverage consciously is certainly not an irresponsible scoundrel or a drunkard. If the problem of alcohol abuse and its deplorable consequences exists – and the problem evidently and indisputably exists – the fault lies not with alcohol or the beverage itself, but with a lack of culture. Of course, it is easier to eliminate the problem – alcohol, in this case – than to invest in culture. In these times of “get it all, now, and easily”, creating and promoting a culture is an unimaginable enterprise. We must acknowledge that in Italy, too, the existence and production of alcohol-free wine is sanctioned by law. A step that will certainly give wine a new image, identity, and role, accepted as an alternative to the real thing, and therefore equated or comparable to it, as “wine”. It will only be a simple and trivial matter of time, perhaps not even that far away. As Julius Caesar famously said, before crossing the Rubicon River, “alea iacta est” (the die is cast), therefore – since for many, the salvation of the wine market depends on this – when will the first dealcoholized DOC and DOCG wines be made?

 In the panorama of wines and sensorial tasting, the grape – and therefore its wines – most associated with herbaceous sensations is certainly Cabernet Franc. It is not the only one, of course, since the herbaceous red Bordeaux grape shares this characteristic with other famous grapes, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère. When wines from these grapes express their herbaceous character, they become particularly divisive. Because of, or thanks to, their typical quality of expressing sensations on the nose that directly recall aromas attributable to vegetal and herbaceous essences, Cabernet Franc – as well as the other grapes – divides enthusiasts between those who appreciate them and those who detest them. It must be said that these divisive characteristics are in any case accentuated or attenuated depending on various viticultural, environmental, and, last but not least, production and wine-making factors.

 This month, the distinctive herbaceous character is compared to one of the greatest glories of southern Italy, a grape lacking herbaceous and vegetal qualities, a product of the volcanic soil of Basilicata: Aglianico del Vulture. A grape of great personality and character, Aglianico is the undisputed star of the red wines of Campania and Basilicata, a variety that – furthermore – also boasts significant presences in other regions of Italy, especially in the south. In both cases, these are varieties capable of producing magnificent wines and are appreciated for their specific characteristics. These wines, it must be said, are decidedly different and distinct during tasting, not only in their aromatic qualities, where Cabernet Franc becomes clearly recognizable thanks to its pronounced vegetal character, but equally so on the palate. When tasted, Aglianico is appreciated for its characteristic crispness, given by its acidity, a quality that – very often – benefits from aging in wood, therefore increasing roundness. Wood is also a frequent winemaking characteristic in Cabernet Franc wines, capable of rounding out its “edgy” qualities.

 The viticultural and ampelographic scenario of Friuli-Venezia Giulia is among the richest in Italy. In addition to the interesting presence of native and Italian varieties, the vineyards of the region also boast – and no less so – a rich presence of so-called “international” grapes. It is not the only Italian region, of course, but in Friuli-Venezia Giulia the presence of non-native varieties, especially of French origin, plays a decisive role in the wine production of the region. The result, in winemaking terms, is unquestionably significant and of absolute importance, as Friuli-Venezia Giulia wines made with so-called “international” grapes very often achieve remarkable levels of quality. Furthermore, these grapes are fundamental to Friuli-Venezia Giulia and, in some ways, they also contribute to its identity, as they are often used to produce wines in the various appellations of the region, either blended with other varieties, not only native ones, or alone.

 One of the denomination of the region where the use of “international” varieties plays a particularly important role is Friuli Colli Orientali. As its name suggests, this important appellation extends across the eastern part of the region, within the province of Udine. Among the many “international” varieties permitted in this denomination is Cabernet Franc, which can also be used to make mono-varietal wines. The well-known and characteristic character of Cabernet Franc, with its distinctive herbaceous and vegetal personality, primarily recognizable in its aroma of green bell pepper, is also clearly perceptible in the wines of this area. In this regard, it should be noted that the “herbaceous” character of Cabernet Franc is strongly influenced by both the territory and ripening, being more intense in colder climates and when not ripe, therefore when harvested early. As is well known, these aromas are caused by methoxypyrazines, which, depending on their quantity, directly express aromas of green bell pepper and other sensations attributable to plants.

 Talking about the wines of Basilicata primarily means referring to Aglianico, the magnificent red grape variety capable of producing stunning wines of sumptuous quality and character in this region. Dominated by the influence and presence of Mount Vulture, the appellation takes its name from this variety and the volcano, and undoubtedly represents the most well-known and distinctive expression of the viticulture of Basilicata. Established in 1971, therefore being the first Denominazione d'Origine Controllata of the region (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) the Aglianico del Vulture area extends across the northern part of Basilicata, in the province of Potenza. The territory of this denomination is predominantly hilly, and the presence of Mount Vulture and the particular soil type strongly influence the character of the wines of this denomination. While Aglianico del Vulture is the first Denominazione d'Origine Controllata, the one defining the “Superiore” style, is the first – and only one – Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita in Basilicata (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) established in 2010.

 Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG is exclusively produced from the eponymous grape, and the production disciplinary also provides for the Riserva style. Compared to the DOC, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore must have an alcohol content of at least 13%, and age for a minimum of 12 months in cask and 12 months in bottle. The Riserva style extends the aging period to at least 24 months in cask and 12 months in bottle. This is therefore an Aglianico del Vulture with a greater production impact and, no less importantly, a greater sensorial character, not only because of its higher alcohol content. Aging in wood also tends to mitigate the characteristic crispness of the Aglianico grape, conferred by its acidity, resulting in a rounder and more structured wine. Another characteristic distinguishing Aglianico del Vulture – including the Superiore – from other wines produced with the same grape and in different territories, is the particularity of its subsoil, primarily volcanic tuff. This type of soil, according to local producers, nurses the vines thanks to its ability to absorb water and release moisture, as well as conferring the identifying character of the territory.

The color of Aglianico del Vulture Superiore

 Before beginning the tasting by contrast of this month, let's find the two bottles we will be pouring in our glasses. While wines produced in the Friuli Colli Orientali and Aglianico del Vulture denominations are quite popular, the bottles we will be examining in our tasting may be more difficult to find. It must be said, in fact, that despite the rich production of the Colli Orientali del Friuli, wines made exclusively with Cabernet Franc are not as widely available as those made with, for example, the most celebrated grapes of the region. The same goes for the Superiore style of Aglianico del Vulture, as the majority of the production of this denomination is DOC. Regarding the composition of the wines, we will ensure that Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc is made with this variety alone, as the corresponding production disciplinary provides for the usual minimum of 85%. We will also ensure it is aged in cask, a mandatory practice for Aglianico del Vulture Superiore. For both wines, we will choose bottles from the most recent harvest and pour them into tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C (65 °F).

 We pour Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc and Aglianico del Vulture Superiore into their respective glasses and begin the tasting of this month. The first wine of which we will examine appearance is Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc. We tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper will suffice – and observe the base. It reveals an intense and brilliant ruby red color, with a rather low transparency, assessed by placing an object between the glass and the white surface. We now observe the wine toward the opening of the glass, where the thickness is thinnest, and therefore evaluate the nuance, which confirms the ruby red color. Let's now move on to evaluate the appearance of Aglianico del Vulture Superiore. The color of the Lucanian wine is an intense and brilliant ruby red, not significantly different from the Friulian wine, with a decidedly low transparency. In the nuance of the Aglianico del Vulture Superiore can be observed the base color, ruby red, along with a garnet hue.

 The olfactory profiles of Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc and Aglianico del Vulture Superiore are so different that even a casual nose would be able to discern their differences. The most significant differentiating quality is undoubtedly the methoxypyrazines present in Cabernet Franc. This class of chemical compounds is easily recognizable by their intense aromas directly reminiscent of certain vegetal and herbaceous substances, particularly bell peppers, especially green pepper. When present in a wine, methoxypyrazines are a decidedly divisive factor – not everyone, in fact, considers them agreeable or appealing – however, they are in any case unpleasant when present in high or excessive quantities. In balanced quantity, they can be pleasing, also adding an interesting complexity and character to the wine. Cabernet Franc is among the varieties most identified with methoxypyrazines, especially in wines produced in cool or cold climates, or when the grapes do not reach full ripeness.

 We resume our tasting and evaluate the olfactory profiles of Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc and Aglianico del Vulture Superiore, starting with the Friulian wine. Holding the glass in vertical position, we take a first sniff, without swirling, in order to appreciate the opening of the wine. On the nose, we perceive intense aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry, plum, and violet, along with the unmistakable scent of green bell pepper, varying in intensity. The nose also perceives the typical aromas of wood aging, particularly vanilla. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc is completed with blueberry, occasionally raspberry, along with herbaceous and vegetal notes reminiscent of tomato leaves. Let's now evaluate the opening of Aglianico del Vulture Superiore. On the nose, we perceive intense and clean aromas reminiscent of black cherry, plum, and blackberry, along with the unmistakable scent of violet. Here too, we perceive vanilla – a contribution from the wood aging – and vegetal or herbaceous aromas are completely absent. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of the Lucanian wine is completed with blueberry, raspberry, and, occasionally, rose.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc and Aglianico del Vulture Superiore, starting – again – with the Friulian wine. The first characteristic we examine is the attack, that is, the sensations perceived in the mouth after the first sip. Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc is recognized for its pleasing and well-balanced astringency, yet clearly perceptible, readily balanced by the effect of the alcohol and the roundness conferred by the oak aging. Furthermore, on the palate, a light and pleasing crispness is perceived, giving the wine personality, in addition to a good structure. Flavors of black cherry, blackcurrant, and plum are perceived on the palate. The attack of the Aglianico del Vulture Superiore, in addition to its pleasing and well-balanced astringency, is recognized for its greater intensity of crispness conferred by the acidity, a typical characteristic of the Aglianico grape. The wine finds balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol and the roundness conferred by the wood aging, also perceiving good structure. Finally, the palate perceives flavors of black cherry, blackberry, plum, and often raspberry.

 We have reached the end of the tasting by contrast of this month, so let's move on to evaluating the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, particularly their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc is persistent, leaving intense flavors of blackcurrant, black cherry, and plum, along with a pleasing sensation of crispness provided by the acidity. The good structure and astringency of the wine are also evident. Also the finish of Aglianico del Vulture Superiore is persistent, leaving intense flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plum, and raspberry. The sensation of crispness – that is, the acidity – is decidedly more intense than that in Cabernet Franc, as is the final sensation of structure the wine leaves in the mouth. Before concluding the tasting, we will perform a final olfactory evaluation of the two wines, first Friuli Colli Orientali Cabernet Franc, then Aglianico del Vulture Superiore. The impact of the herbaceous and vegetal qualities of Cabernet Franc makes the Friulian wine decidedly distinct and different from the Lucanian one.

 In this section are published news and information about events concerning the world of wine and food. Whoever is interested in publishing this kind of information can send us a mail to our address.