One of the interesting things about wine, specifically its appreciation in the glass, is, so to speak, its seasonality. Each season, not to mention, each month of the year, offers occasions that seem to be specifically made for the consumption of a specific type of wine, no less, particular territories, producers, even labels. Let's be clear: with the right and proper occasion – such as at the table, with the need to well pair a wine with a dish – the corkscrew heads, diligent and zealous, toward a particular bottle and that one only. In such case, no season can hold any sway, and, without any regret or doubt, that is perfectly fine. Undeniably, however, there are certain wines that are consumed more and preferably at particular times of the year, as well as seasons – of course – and, no less importantly, during the holidays. Like those at the end of the year, when it is a triumph of corks from sparkling wine bottles popping, with or without a bang, sealing not only the moment of celebration, but also the beauty of being together.

 The summer season, which – at least in this part of the hemisphere – has just begun, is also the time of the year having a good number of informal occasions, away from meals, where, without a doubt, the presence of a glass of wine is certainly not unwelcome. On these occasions – although, at least for me, it is not entirely out of the question – the idea of uncorking a bottle of, say, Montefalco Sagrantino or Barolo, is obviously not the first thought. Very frequently and understandably, thoughts of white wines, especially sparkling and spumante, as well as rosé, come to mind. This idea, undoubtedly, is easily satisfied with endless possibilities, since any wine-growing region in the world, not just Italy, is capable of offering bottles suitable for summer glasses. If we take into consideration, for example, bubbles, the choice offered by the vast Italian wine panorama, from the Alps to Sicily, is enormous and very varied.

 However, as I was saying, it is not just Italy that delights in the summer glass, and still considering the joyful bubbles, France, notoriously, offers huge satisfaction with its vast selection of Champagne, not to mention the Crémants produced in various French regions, as well as the “lesser-known” ancestral Blanquettes de Limoux and Clairette de Die. Not to mention the bubbles from Spain – Cava, above all – and from Germany, such as Sekt. Going beyond Europe, the thirst for bubbles can certainly also be satisfied with bottles from Australia, South Africa, and the United States of America. More recently, interesting bubbles have also been produced in England, which – despite not having a long winemaking tradition – is emerging as an interesting protagonist in this style of wine. Furthermore, bubbles are produced in practically every wine-producing country in the world, not only sparkling wines, but also the more “simple” slightly sparkling wines – frizzante, like we Italians say – which, in summer, are certainly refreshing and welcome.

 And what about Italy, many will ask? Of course, I would not forget Italy! You will admit, however, that the list of sparkling wines for the summer produced in this beautiful country is such that I would simply end up proposing a very long list, which – I have no doubt – is well-etched in the mind of any wine lover. From the classic method to the Martinotti – or Charmat – to the many sparkling wines produced by each region, the list would be very long and, I am sure, even incomplete. After all, in Italy, especially in the northern regions, the production of wines that, in past centuries, were called “mordaci” (literally , biting), boasts a long and solid history. However, I would like to name one, or rather, several ones. Perhaps unexpected and unusual for some, maybe agreed and appreciated by others. White and rosé bubbles are always welcome, my glass is certainly very happy, but if I had to express a preference, I choose the classic method, without, however, disdaining a fresh and immediate Martinotti or Charmat method, as you prefer.

 A name, then, or rather, several names. Personally, in summer, a wine I appreciate very much – actually, a large family of wines – is Lambrusco. All of them, without exception. From Reggio Emilia to Modena, up north to Mantua, the selection of Lambruscos is very interesting and vast. From the palest and pinkest, like Sorbara, to the deep reds of Grasparossa di Castelvetro, served at summer temperatures, they are a delightful, joyful, and refreshing relief from the summer heat. No less interesting is the remarkable versatility of Lambruscos – all of them – in pairing well with the most popular summer dishes. I certainly do not forget Lambruscos in other seasons, as I often and willingly pour them into my very own glasses all year round. And let's not forget that in recent years – it is certainly appropriate to say that – the Lambrusco region has seen a great deal of ferment, with interesting wines created from modern winemaking and the initiative of forward-thinking producers. Quality has undeniably improved in recent years, and by a lot. Hurray!

 Not just Lambrusco, at least for me. During the summer, I enjoy pouring two fragrant Piedmontese wines into my glasses, specifically, Moscato d'Asti and Brachetto d'Acqui, both sparkling and slightly-sparkling. For the sake of accuracy, I also need to add Canelli, since it recently acquired its own denomination. Besides the charming aromas of Moscato Bianco and Brachetto, these wines have a decidedly low alcohol content – the same is true for many Lambruscos – making them even more perfect for the hot summer season. Just like Lambruscos, these wines are perfect for informal moments between meals, but not necessarily. If it is true that Lambrusco pairs well with food, Asti, Canelli, and Acqui become irreplaceable allies for pairing with typical summer desserts, made of cold creams – such as ice creams and parfaits, gelato and semifreddo – but also desserts based on mousse or whipped creams.

 Bubbles, all of them, are also my favorite pairing with pizza, a dish that, while undoubtedly suitable year-round, is certainly among the top choices in summer, especially for informal occasions and meals eaten outdoors. Cerere's followers may not share this preference – although I appreciate and brew beer myself since many decades and for my own consumption – however, for me, pizza unequivocally calls for wine. And it is not just bubbles with pizza, as its many topping options allow it to be easily paired with any type or style of wine. In summer, however, bubbles are the main thing in my glass when I enjoy a good pizza, either made by me personally, with dough strictly made from sourdough and matured for at least 36 hours, or from a few select pizzerias “I trust”. With pizza, just like with wine, I admit, I'm very picky, including bread.

 This, obviously, will not change the fate of the summer heat, which – as I write this – seems to promise, or rather, threaten, fire and brimstone. It will certainly allow us to better endure the summer, focusing on the pleasure of a good glass of wine in good company, and certainly choosing “suitable” wines, therefore with a lower alcohol content and that can be enjoyed at cool temperatures. Not cold, as too often happens, since an excessively low temperature practically nullifies the pleasure of the sensorial perception of wine, especially its olfactory and gustatory profiles. In that case, it might be well taken advantage from a nice glass of cold water, if you really are looking for a decidedly cooling comfort. I trust, indeed I am certain, that those who read me are not tempted by the unhealthy “fad” of recent times, which seems to be gaining growing support, that of adding one or more ice cubes to the glass of wine, especially red wine. I understand that summer heat can “play tricks” and even “go to your head”, but this way – frankly speaking – it seems like too much torture even for your worst enemy, let alone for yourself. Have a great summer everyone, with a good and appropriate wine in your glass, always in cheerful and happy company!

 The world of sparkling wines – also known as bubbles – is not only interesting, but also rich and surprising. A world that, undeniably, has grown significantly, especially in recent decades and in practically every wine-producing country in the world. It should be noted, in fact, that until a few decades ago – let's say, at least until the 1980s – when one thought of quality sparkling wines, the association was practically and almost exclusively with the glorious wines of Champagne. They were not the only ones, but finding the few exceptions that could even minimally compete with the French bubbles was no easy task. This, undeniably, has fostered emulation around the world, seeking to imitate the quality and success of French sparkling wines, in particular by making extensive use of the classic Champagne grapes, especially Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

 Much like other wine styles, the belief that French quality was primarily attributable to their grapes was decidedly dominant, and not just for sparkling wines. Progress and greater awareness of viticultural and winemaking practices have finally allowed us to understand that, yes, grapes are important, but they alone do not make quality. Although Chardonnay and Pinot Noir still represent a significant presence in sparkling wines produced worldwide, there are numerous interesting exceptions, both linked to specific traditions of the territories and to recent experiments that have allowed sparkling wines to be produced with native varieties. This is the case of the two sparkling wines we are examining in the tasting by contrast of this month, made with Vermentino and Durella, respectively. We will be pouring Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut and Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut, refined sparkling wines with distinctive personalities, which have long been important protagonists of their respective territories and denominations.

 Vermentino is one of the most popular varieties among wine enthusiasts, especially for the many white wines produced in various regions of Italy. Undeniably, among the most famous and appreciated are those originating in the Gallura region of Sardinia. The production disciplinary – which, it should be noted, is Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) – provides for the production of many styles, of which, undeniably, still white wines are the most representative, as well as the most widely produced and renowned. The disciplinary, however, also provides for the production of sparkling wines, using either the autoclave refermentation method – that is, Martinotti or Charmat – or the classic method, that is the refermentation in bottle. The production disciplinary, furthermore, also includes slightly sparkling, late-harvest, and sweet passito wines, confirming the quality and winemaking potential of the Vermentino grape.

 Sparkling wine produced using the classic method, the style we are examining in the tasting by contrast of this month, is produced – in accordance with the relative disciplinary – with at least 95% Vermentino and any additional part made of non-aromatic white grapes permitted in Sardinia. It should be noted that the same composition is provided for all wine styles of the Vermentino di Gallura denomination. Specifically, for the classic method, the secondary fermentation in the bottle and subsequent aging on the lees must be at least nine months. The disciplinary also requires that the date of first disgorgement be indicated on the label. In this regard, it should be noted that this minimum period is rarely used by producers, as, in most cases, it extends to 12 months, or even 24 months or more.

 The Durella grape – known in its native region as Durello or Durasena – is considered one of the oldest native white grape varieties of Veneto region. It is primarily cultivated in the hilly and mountainous area of the Lessini Mountains, in the provinces of Verona and Vicenza. This area, in fact, is considered the place where Durella originated. A grape with a sharp and harsh character – with a decidedly hard flavor profile – this variety has historically been primarily used as a complementary and corrective grape for excessively smooth wines, thus providing the acidity needed for balance. Historically grown in modest quantities, Durella is gaining increasing attention and interest thanks both to the use of viticultural and winemaking practices suited to the grape and – and above all – for its pronounced acidity, a quality that makes it extremely suitable for the production of sparkling wines, especially with the classic method, a technique that allows its character to be rounded out.

 In this regard, it is worth noting the existence of two denominations that provide for the production of sparkling wines with the Durella grape: Lessini Durello and Monti Lessini. The former is exclusively reserved for sparkling wines produced with secondary fermentation in an autoclave – Martinotti or Charmatmethod – while the latter is for those produced with the classic method, which means secondary fermentation in the bottle. For completeness, the Monti Lessini disciplinary also provides for the production of other wine styles, even allowing the use of varieties other than Durella. In our specific case, it should be noted that the classic method sparkling wine is produced with at least 85% Durella and a possible complementary part of Garganega, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. In this regard, it is worth noting that the majority of producers exclusively use the Durella grape. Regarding refermentation and bottle aging, the minimum period is 18 months, although longer periods are quite common, even 4 or 5 years.

The color of Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut

 Let's proceed by purchasing the two bottles we will pour into our glasses, to begin the tasting by contrast. It is important to note that the two wines may be difficult to find, and for different reasons. In the case of the Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut, the difficulty is mainly due to the quantity of bottles produced, since it is undeniably a marginal style compared to the most widely produced, that is the dry white. Although the Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut is definitely growing in popularity, thanks to the increasing number of producers involved in its production, it is not always easy to find, especially in areas far from the production area. For both wines, we will choose bottles produced with the reference varietal, a characteristic that – it should be remembered – represents the majority. Regarding bottle aging, we will ensure it is at least 18 months, which is also the minimum required for Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut. The wines are poured into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C. (50 °F)

 We pour Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut and Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut into the glasses and begin our tasting, proceeding with the appearance evaluation. The first wine we examine is Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut. We hold the glass in vertical position, raising it to eye level, and observe the development of the perlage. We notice an orderly and continuous chain of bubbles, very fine. Let's now observe the wine from above, focusing our attention on the ring of bubbles forming on the side of the glass and the development of the perlage in the center. Here too, the formation of the bubbles is thin and fine. We tilt the glass over a white surface and observe the color: it is a bright straw yellow, very transparent. The hue – observed towards the opening of the glass – shows the same base color. Let's now look at the perlage of Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut. Here too, the chain of bubbles is thin, continuous, and very fine. The color of the Venetian sparkling wine is decidedly similar to that of Sardinia, that is, a bright straw yellow with the same hue.

 The olfactory profiles of Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut and Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut, as is easily understood, express both the specific characteristics of the respective grapes used for their production and – no less important – the qualities that typically develop with secondary fermentation in the bottle and time. The main responsible are notoriously yeasts, particularly their decomposition, a process that enriches the sensorial qualities of the wine, not just its olfactory profile. The intensity and quality of this influence is also dependent on the length of time the wine spends in the bottle, keeping in mind that, over time, the impact becomes progressively less dominant, giving way to the aromas typical of aging. Furthermore, in classic method wines, the dosage also contributes to the sensorial qualities of the wine. It is not just a matter of “sweetness”, but also the sensorial characteristics of the wine used in this process.

 We resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of the two wines. As in the previous phase, the first wine we examine is Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut. Holding the glass in vertical position, we proceed with the first sniff, without swirling, to appreciate the opening. This Sardinian sparkling wine is recognized on the nose by aromas of apple, pear, plum, and a clear hint of bread crust. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of the Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut is completed with hawthorn, pineapple, broom, peach, grapefruit, as well as hints of dried fruit, including almond and hazelnut. We move on to the evaluation of Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut, starting with the opening. The Venetian sparkling wine is recognized on the nose by aromas of pear, apple – including green apple – and broom, along with the gift of the classic method, characterized by bread crust. After swirling the glass, the aromatic profile is completed with chamomile, cedar, kiwi, pineapple, often jasmine, peach, and a hint of hazelnut.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut and Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut, also in this case starting with the Sardinian sparkling wine. We evaluate its attack, that is, the main sensations perceived in the mouth after the first sip. We immediately notice the marked effervescence and crispness conferred by the acidity, qualities that are immediately balanced by both the effect of the alcohol and that of tirage, the sugars added to create the “brut” style. On the palate, flavors of apple, pear, and plum are perceived, often accompanied by a pleasing, slightly bitter note with hints of almond. Let's now evaluate the attack of Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut, so take the first sip. On the palate, we immediately perceive the sensations of effervescence and crispness, once again immediately balanced by both the alcohol and the sugars of the “brut” style. Flavors of pear, green apple, kiwi, and peach are also evident on the palate.

 We are about to end our tasting by contrast, so let's proceed with the evaluation of the final sensations the two wines leave on the mouth, particularly the taste-olfactory persistence, which is one of the main factors of quality. The finish of Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Metodo Classico Brut is persistent, and the palate continues to perceive the pleasing crispness of the acidity, along with a hint of roundness due to the brut style. The Sardinian sparkling wine also leaves flavors of apple, pear, and plum, accompanied by a pleasing bitterness of almond, a quality that often distinguishes wines made with Vermentino grapes. The finish of Monti Lessini Durello Metodo Classico Brut is persistent, and in this wine too, the palate continues to clearly perceive the sensation of crispness conferred by the acidity and a pleasing hint of roundness, well-balanced with the rest of the final sensations. Intense flavors of pear, green apple, kiwi, and peach are also perceived on the palate.

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