Given the usual progression of the seasons, the scorching summer of 2026 has now come to an end. Hot, muggy, and more unbearable than ever, it was a season that saw our blameless thermometers hit unthinkable peaks and register alarming figures. Experts and meteorologists from various quarters report that the summer we have just left behind was, in fact, the hottest in decades, shattering records – so to speak – that had stood for over 70 years. Clearly, we all noticed it. So did anxious winemakers and, no less so, the poor vines, severely stressed by a lack of water and temperatures beyond description. It was a situation that – as we well recall – necessitated understandable caution when forecasting this year's harvest, with the only certainty being its remarkably early timing. A fact that was, of course, confirmed everywhere. Furthermore, meteorological experts have already warned that we will look back on the summer of 2026 with nostalgia, since – they say – future summers will be even hotter. Frankly, I find it hard to imagine a summer more scorching than the one that has just ended.

 Regarding the news of 2026 harvest – though hardly “news”, given that it was widely anticipated and entirely predictable – the grapes were picked significantly earlier than usual this year. It must be said, however, that being forced to bring the harvest forward – especially amidst extreme heat and the resulting water stress – is no simple task. The primary goal is to preserve the precious acidity – essential for many wines – along with key aromatic qualities. In other words, the aim is to bring grapes into the winery with the best possible balance of all their components, before the ripening process irreparably compromises them. The only consolation is that the grapes are, in all likelihood, sound and free from defects caused by humidity or low temperatures. It may sound simple, but in reality, this is a critical strategic decision for achieving the best possible outcome from the work of a full year.

 Indeed, such a dramatic early start had never been seen before. In many parts of Italy – particularly for sparkling wines – the harvest actually was completed before the end of July. It was by no means a simple task, however, as high temperatures forced producers to harvest the grapes during the coolest hours of the day – early morning – and to cool the clusters before pressing. Producers across Italy are reporting a harvest that is two weeks ahead of schedule. Furthermore, the “new” climatic conditions of the country are prompting producers to seriously rethink their viticultural and vine-training techniques, as well as the grape varieties grown in their vineyards. Current feedback from producers suggests an “epochal” shift – or a renewal, if you prefer – extending from the vineyard all the way to sales; the latter sector is being severely hampered by market issues that have, unfortunately, been plaguing the industry globally for months.

 One might assume that the significantly early grape harvest was a phenomenon affecting primarily southern European regions – such as Italy – but in reality, the need to harvest grapes much earlier than usual extended to France as well. This affected not only the country's southernmost areas but even cooler regions like Burgundy and, nevertheless, Champagne. In many vineyards across these areas, the harvest concluded before mid-August. Just as in Italy, France has also been giving serious thought to vineyard management for future vintages, given the magnitude of these changes. Gone are the days when the harvest was primarily an autumn activity, often taking place well into the season, even as late as October. Back then, merely moving the harvest up to September was considered a highly unusual anomaly. Today, however, many would likely wish they could harvest during that month. Time inevitably passes and changes things and, it seems, the climate and seasons are no exception.

 So, what are the grapes from the 2026 harvest like? Based on reports from winegrowers who have finished harvesting, the grapes are generally healthy but have ripened very rapidly due to high temperatures; consequently, they have above-average sugar levels, likely lower aromatic potential, and acidity level which is not exactly optimal. Simply put, this means that appropriate adjustments will need to be made during winemaking to produce balanced wines. In this regard, it must be stated – or rather, emphasized – that these are entirely legitimate and legal adjustments, permitted under current regulations. Before anyone cries foul, it is also worth noting that these are perfectly legal winemaking practices that – for better or worse – are commonly carried out in wineries every year. Overall, the quality is considered high and very good, even though yields are significantly lower than average.

 Given the current stocks in Italian wineries – which are notoriously excessive – the news that the 2026 harvest will yield a smaller volume is, in my view, the lesser of two evils. Indeed, stocks will inevitably rise next spring, and we will likely still be pointing out the excessive volume of wine sitting in wineries, all while hoping it gets sold or otherwise moved into the market. It is true that we are finally seeing tentative signs of market recovery – though not for everyone – however these remain too slight to yield significant results. Clearly, a tentative sign of recovery is better than a negative one, especially considering the news that has overshadowed the wine sector's fortunes for far too long. Beyond the usual – and utterly insufferable – remedy prescribed for wine communication, producers and consortia are instead questioning the need for significant, drastic changes. They have likely realized, unlike others, that mere talk – even when “dressed up for the occasion” – or simply “changing the tune” will not get the wine that far.

 Let's be honest and call a spade a spade: consumer habits and preferences regarding wine have changed. In my view, this is the result of the ferocious smear campaigns waged against wine in recent years, not to mention the emergence of new trends. Of course, everyone is free to follow whatever trend they like and to eat or drink whatever suits them best, far be it from me to say otherwise. For instance, the current prevailing demand for wines with lower – or virtually zero – alcohol content, driven largely by the fad for so-called “dealcoholized wines”, clashes sharply with the reality of climate change. Rising temperatures – which are expected to climb further in the years ahead – not only force earlier harvests but also significantly increase sugar levels in the grapes. In winemaking terms, this inevitably translates into higher alcohol content in the finished wine. Admittedly, one can work “miracles” in the winery – up to a certain point – such as using yeasts that produce less alcohol or simply resorting to dealcoholization.

 Meanwhile, consortia and producers – beyond highlighting serious economic challenges, such as production costs and the need to ensure a fair income for those working in vineyards and wineries – are beginning to consider the need for change to better navigate inevitable future shifts. Discussions are underway regarding the revision of disciplinary specifications, including the potential use of PIWI varieties and the need for periodic adjustments based on climatic and production conditions. A significant example of this is the situation in Champagne: following the conditions of the brutal summer of 2026, and for the first time in the appellation's history, wines will be permitted to exceed 13% alcohol by volume, up to the European limit of 15%. Unfortunately, exceptional times call for appropriate – even unimaginable – measures; this is likely a path that will have to be followed in the future. When viewing the wine sector as a whole – from vineyard to glass – this appears to be an unavoidable necessity and, perhaps, the lesser of two evils.

 In virtually every wine-producing country in the world, there are regions that – from an enological perspective – are defined by a specific grape or wine. While many of these areas produce other wines or styles as well, they remain inextricably linked to one particular wine that serves as their signature. This is the case for the two regions featured in the comparative tasting of this month: one is closely tied to a single grape variety, while the other relies on a blend of grapes to make the white wine that best characterizes the area. The first is Lugana, a wine whose identity is tied exclusively to the Turbiana grape, a variety identical to Trebbiano di Soave and also known locally as Trebbiano di Lugana. The second territory defines its flagship wine – a white – through the Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano grape varieties. These two areas are geographically far apart: the first belongs to Lombardy and Veneto, while the second is located in Puglia.

 In both cases, these are wines boasting a long history and a deep connection to their respective territories; however, it is only relatively recently that they have become known to enthusiasts and – today – easily recognizable within the Italian wine landscape. Specifically, we will be tasting the Superiore styles, thus – in accordance with the designations characterizing Italian wines – these are, compared to the “standard” style, distinguished by a higher alcohol content. From both an enological and organoleptic perspective, this characteristic necessitates sensorial elements capable of balancing the heightened sensation of alcoholic warmth. Generally speaking, Superiore styles are also distinguished by greater structure and body, qualities that are, of course, not solely dependent on the alcohol content of wines.

 Spanning a very long area, Apulia boasts an impressively diverse range of wines and grape varieties. Indeed, the region encompasses numerous distinct wine-growing territories, each characterized by specific styles and grapes, the latter very often being indigenous varieties. While Apulia is celebrated for its extensive production of rosés, its vast territory also yields excellent red wines, sparkling wines, passito (made from sweet dried-grape), and, of course, whites. One such white wine defines the Locorotondo Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) area, named after the town of the same name in the province of Bari. This appellation is closely linked to the Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano white grape varieties, both indigenous to Apulia. Although other grapes are grown in the area, these two are the most representative ones. In fact, while the production disciplinary permit the use of other grapes authorized for cultivation in the region, the variety that features most prominently in the blend is Minutolo, known locally as Fiano.

 In addition to the famous white wine, the Locorotondo production disciplinary also provides for single-varietal wines – specifically Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, and Fiano (Minutolo) – with the variety stated on the label. Regarding the white wine, the disciplinary also include Superiore – which we are examining in our tasting – and Riserva styles. Furthermore, the Locorotondo DOC disciplinary allow for spumante and Passito styles, utilizing the same blend defined for the standard white wine. Consequently, the composition of Locorotondo Bianco consists of at least 50% Verdeca and a minimum of 35% Bianco d'Alessano, with any remaining portion made up of other white grape varieties native to and authorized for cultivation in Apulia. In this regard, it should be noted – as previously mentioned – that the most commonly used complementary variety is Minutolo. The Superiore style is distinguished by a higher alcohol content, which must be at least 11%, compared to 9.50% for the standard style. Additionally, the yield per hectare is set at 10 tonnes for the Superiore and 13 for the standard version.

 Lugana white wines have undeniably been at the heart of one of Italy?s many winemaking success stories for years. The result of significant efforts to define its territorial identity and quality, Lugana is now one of Italy?s best-known white wines. The production area – recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) – stretches across the southern shores of Lake Garda, spanning the provinces of Brescia, in Lombardy, and Verona, in Veneto. A wine with a long history – featuring in notable records dating back over five centuries – this celebrated white takes its name from the village of the same name within the municipality of Sirmione, in the province of Brescia. The key grape variety here is Turbiana, a local name, alongside Trebbiano di Lugana, for the Trebbiano di Soave variety, which is the star of the white wines produced just a few dozen kilometers to the east, in the province of Verona.

 In addition to the Turbiana grape, another defining characteristic of this wine is the soil composition. The territory extends across the plain south of Lake Garda, with its outer reaches rising toward the hills. However, it is the wines produced on the plains near Lake Garda that define the distinctive identity of Lugana wines, which often have a characteristic minerality. The production disciplinary covers not only the celebrated white wine but also Superiore, Riserva, late-harvest, and sparkling styles. In our tasting, we examine the Superiore style, which has an alcohol content of 12%, compared to the 11% required for the standard style. Although Turbiana is usually the sole grape variety used in these wines, the disciplinary provides for a minimum of 90% Turbiana, with the remaining portion potentially made up of other white grape varieties authorized for cultivation in the provinces of Brescia and Verona.

The color of Lugana Superiore

 Before starting the comparative tasting of this month, we need to purchase the two bottles we will be pouring into our glasses. Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore are relatively easy to find, even in major retail chains. As always, should sourcing them prove difficult, a good wine shop will certainly be able to meet our needs. As for Locorotondo Superiore, we will select a bottle made from the typical blend – Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, and a small amount of Minutolo – that has been fermented and aged in inert containers, preferably stainless steel tanks. We will also pay attention to the composition of the Lugana Superiore, ensuring it is produced exclusively from the Turbiana grape. Regarding fermentation and aging, we will again choose a bottle produced entirely in inert containers, such as stainless steel tanks. For both wines, we will select bottles from the most recent vintage and pour them into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 We can now pour Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore into their respective tasting glasses and begin evaluating the two wines, starting with the one from Apulia. As usual, the first quality we examine is appearance, that is, how the wine presents itself in terms of color and clarity. We tilt Locorotondo Superiore glass over a white surface and observe the base. The color revealed in the Apulian wine is a brilliant straw yellow, and its transparency – assessed by placing an object between the glass and the white surface – is very high. We then observe Locorotondo Superiore near the rim of the glass, where the liquid is thinner, and evaluate the nuance, which appears greenish-yellow. Next, we move on to evaluating the appearance of Lugana Superiore, therefore we tilt its glass over the white surface and, here too, observe a brilliant straw yellow color and very high transparency. Furthermore, the nuance is similar to that of the Apulian white: greenish-yellow.

 The olfactory profiles of Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore have distinct characteristics, despite sharing certain qualities. One interesting aspect of this tasting by contrast lies in the composition of the two wines: Locorotondo Superiore is a blend of multiple varieties, whereas Lugana Superiore is a single-varietal wine. When Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, and Minutolo blend together and make Locorotondo Superiore, the nose reveals aromas of pear, apple, and peach, often followed by citrus notes, in particular, lemon. Floral aromas in Locorotondo Superiore are primarily characterized by broom and hawthorn. Lugana Superiore is distinguished on the nose by aromas of apple, pear, and plum, often accompanied by notes of peach, pineapple, and almond, whereas floral elements are evident in the scents of hawthorn and broom.

 We resume our tasting by contrast and evaluate the olfactory profiles of Locorotondo Superiore and Lugana Superiore, starting – as in the previous stage – with the wine from Apulia. Holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling it, we take the first smell to appreciate the opening notes of the wine. From the glass, we perceive intense and pleasing aromas of pear, apple, broom, and hawthorn. We then swirl the glass – an operation encouraging the release of further aromatic qualities – and take a second smell. The profile of Locorotondo Superiore is completed with aromas of peach, pineapple, plum, and chamomile, often accompanied by citrus sensations, in particular, lemon. We now move on to evaluate the opening aromas of Lugana Superiore and, by holding the glass in vertical position, we take the first smell. We detect intense and pleasing aromas of apple, pear, plum, and hawthorn. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of Lugana Superiore is completed with aromas of broom, peach, pineapple, and citrus sensations reminiscent of citron, alongside the unmistakable scent of almond.

 Let us now turn to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the wines in our comparative tasting, beginning – as in the previous stages – with Locorotondo Superiore. We take a sip of the Apulian wine and assess its attack, the initial sensations perceived in the mouth upon the first sip. Locorotondo Superiore is notable for the pleasing crispness imparted by its acidity, a quality that finds immediate balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol. It also has good body, although not an overpowering one, a characteristic that highlights the finesse of the wine and its flavors of apple, pear, plum, and peach. We now move on to evaluate the opening of Lugana Superiore and take our first sip. This wine is distinguished by its pleasing crispness, more intense than that of Locorotondo Superiore, yet also well-balanced by the alcohol. On the palate, it is perceived a good structure alongside flavors of apple, pear, and plum, as well as a distinctive almond note.

 We have reached the end of the comparative tasting, so we can now evaluate the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, specifically, their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Locorotondo Superiore is persistent, leaving a sensation of characteristic finesse and immediacy, along with flavors of apple, pear, plum, and peach, thereby confirming – even at this final stage of the tasting – a strong correspondence with the aromas perceived on the nose. The finish of Lugana Superiore is also persistent, leaving a sensation of crispness derived from its acidity – which is more intense than that of the Apulian wine – yet well-balanced by the characteristic finesse of this white wine. On the palate, are still perceived intense and clean flavors of apple, pear, and plum, alongside a hint of almond – which tends toward a bitter note – among the sensorial qualities that distinguish Lugana Superiore.

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